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Hanging At Himeji

April 5, 2007
The train wasn't to depart till about 9:45. But Nana and Mom have a tendency to get up at the crack of dawn and be ready 5 minutes after that. How they do it, I have yet to figure out. ALthough I have picked up this new trick called, Packing Everything Really Quick. I'll let you in on how it works. You take a backpack or bag and shove everything you own into it, as quick as possible. Works everytime. A few minutes after the sun rose, we were all packed. The night before, my host family, the Osaki's, had given me strict instructions. One of the problems facing was wa place to put all of luggage at the Himeji Station. It's not as though Nana and Mom took my advice, clearly stating not to pack heavily. Infact, they pretty much packed as of they were moving to Japan for a year. Now who would do such a crazy thing? Anyway I tolf Osaki Otosan this dilemma, and he came up with a plan. In prior plannings of the trip, he had arranged for a good friend, Kuroda-san, to meet us at the station and then given us a tour of the Himeji area. That is all I knew about the set up. But with our little dilemma, Kuroda-san would drive us to the post office. There we would ship our luggage to the Osaki residence. It seemed like it would work out perfectly. Except that we still had 2 more days without suitcases. Nana and Mom could have died. They packed up a bag full to the brim and extremely heavy with stuff for 2 nifty little days. So we set off that morning with an extra extremely heavy bag. The hotel owners, who had been absolutely wonderful over the past few days, called us a cab when we reached the first floor. Though they were probably happy to get rid of us. The cabby loaded our stuff, and soon we were on our way to Kyoto Station. There I brought Mom and Nana into the basement area to ask where our train would be departing from. But we still had a long time. Mom and Nana decided to get some breakfast, a few things of bread, while I got a coffee as usual. They were both very happy with this safe breakfast. But we were finished very quickly and headed back into the station. Now mind you, it was just about time for morning rush hour. Every 5 minutes or so, about 10,000 people, dressed in black, carrying suitcases, with black hair, and virtual sameness would stampede through the area we were standing. During one of the 5 minute breaks, I went and got some drinks for Nana and Mom, then found a bathroom. We would never have been able to survive any more stampede's, so i decided we had better catch an early train. My host father had bought all my tickets beforehand, and I was really lucky that he had bought the open ended whenever you feel like it ticket. I carried Nana's enormously heavy bag up the platform with no elevator, and we suddenly were overtaken by the little black ant stampede. On the train, we had to stand. But luckily because we had SO much luggage, it made alot of extra room for air. A few stops later and Nana and Mom were able to sit, while I had to stay standing up. People would get on the train and take one look at how much luggage I had, and make rude remarks in Japanese. The great part is that I could understand what they said. Usually I made a remark back like, "I can understand you, you know." This would make them get so embarrassed that they would try to move to the next cart. The ride was very long with the amount of people, and Mom and Nana were not happy about it. Especially since they couldn't get any answers about today's events. This is because I really didn"t know what was happening other than Osaki Otosan's friend picking us up at the station. We arrived tired and all a little annoyed with each other. In the station, the first thing me Mom noticed was BIG lockers. AND the mood lifted as she and Nana threw their belongings into one and paid the outrageous fee. They were so pleased to know they would be traveling with all their stuff in the next few days, rather than just one little (but heavy!) bag. Suddenly a Japanese girl, looking to be about my age, followed by a middle-aged Japanese man walked up to us. This was the first time we met Muroda-san and his 16 year old daughter, Kanoko. They were SOOOOOOO nice to us. First they wondered why we were using the lockers instead of just sending the luggage, but my Japanese finally came in handy for something. Next the ushered for us to follow them to their car. Kanoko informed me that we would be picking up her mother, then heading to Shosazan, a mountain with an ancient temple on the top. We picked up the young looking woman in front of restaurant, and were greeted kindly beyond words. The car ride was a bit long, but I spent every moment getting to know Kanoko. She goes to the smartest school in Himeji, in a 2nd year in high school, and participates in the Cheer squad. She took the day off from club to come and meet us. I showed her pictures from my camera, and we laughed very hard (probably from the Maiko pictures.) We became fast friends. Soon we arrived at the Mountain, where I purchased 6 ropeway tickets. The first thing we had to do was get on a Gondola taking us to the high part of the mountain. As we soared about the tree tops, we got a great view of the beautiful city of Himeji. At the top, or at least what I thought was the top, we had the choice to either walk up a more steep mountain, or take a bus. The walk was never an option with Nana's hip, which upon hearing, became a big concern for the Kuroda family. Translating for Nana and Mom, we all managed to get to know the Kuroda family, and what wonderful people they were. So by the time we boarded the Roller Coaster, ooooppppsss I mean bus, we were all pretty comfortbale with each other. Boarding the bus, we were slapped on our right shoulders a sticker, which acted as a ticket. The weird thing was that the ticket was a crooked Swastika. Even though I know the real meaing behind the character in Japanese Buddhism, having it placed on my shoulder, gave me the creeps. The symbol as it is used in Buddhist art and scripture is known in Japanese as a manji, which literally just means "the Chinese character for eternality." It represents Dharma, universal harmony, and the balance of opposites. When facing left, it is the front manji, representing love and mercy. Facing right, it represents strength and intelligence. The bus ride took us up and down the steepest of steep hills, over muddy rocky roads, and just on the edge of steep cliffs with no guard rails. Mom likened it to a guard rail, but I felt lucky to be alive. And sure enough, we had arrived at Engyoji on the Mount Shosha. Mount Shosha (Shoshazan) is the site of Engyoji, an atmospheric temple complex with a history of over 1000 years. Engyoji's temple buildings are spread over a spacious, densely forested area on the mountain top. From the ropeway station it takes a 10-15 minute walk uphill to reach Niomon Gate, and another 10-15 minutes to reach the Maniden, a beautiful wooden temple hall, constructed on pillars on a steep slope. We explored the main temple, which gave us a great view of the forest, and forced Nana to take off her shoes yet again. But we were done with the temple fairly quickly. Our next excursion was a brief hike up the mountain to another part of the temple complex, that would pass through the graveyard of the family that built Himeji Castle. We were all fine, even Nana, hiking up the slightly steep slope. The trail brought us to the three massive wooden temple halls, known as mitsunodo: the Daikodo (main hall), Jikido (lodging and dining hall, and the last remaining one in Japan) and Jogyodo (gymnasium). We took alot of time looking around the area, taking pictures, and enjoying the time we had together. I was informed, in recent years, Mount Shosha has gained some fame overseas by having served as a film location for the Hollywood movie "The Last Samurai". I hate Tom Cruise, but I smiled and acted amazed at the fact that the Kuroda's got to actually meet him when he came to film. Walking back down the mountain, I told the whole family about my life in Japan. They were really interested, and I wasn't afraid to speak Japanese, even though I probably sound like a caveman. When I was finished, I invited Kanoko to Maerica, an offer in which she may take up. Back on the bus, we crossed our fingers for dear life, but made it safely to the starting point. Then we returned via ropeway. Back in the car, Mrs. Kuroda, told me that she know the perfect restaurant to feed Nana and Mom. I had told the family, that my family hated Japanese food. But I was a little worried about where we would end up going. After about a 35 minute painfully carsickening ride, we picked up Kanoko's best friend Miki. And then arrived at a steak place. Nana could have wet herself in joy as she ordered a large sandwich. The meal was very delightful, with Nana and Mom being very happy, me making 2 new friends, and the Kuroda's listening to everything that was going on. The family even presented the 3 of us with beautful little trinkets from Himeji. I received a Himeji Castle key chain, while Nana and Mom got other things famous for the beautiful Himeji Castle, which was to be our next destination. The only complaint about the meal, was that the Kuroda family insisted on paying for it. I was a bit uncomfortable about that, especially since it was them who were being so amazing to an American family who had they had just met. After we were all finished, we left the restaurant and headed for Himeji Castle. Himeji Castle is a Japanese castle located in Himeji. It is one of the oldest surviving structures from medieval Japan. It is one of Japan's "Three Famous Castles", and is the most visited castle in Japan. It is occasionally known as Hakurojō or Shirasagijō ("White Heron Castle") because of its brilliant white exterior. When we arrived, the Sakura were in full bloom, the park surrounding was crowded with happy cheery people, the sun was shining, and Nana and Mom were fed. (The think the latter part of that sentence was what made everyone happy.) After briefly exploring the grounds outside the castle, we bought tickets and headed inside. The self-guided tour around the grounds was easy to follow, before making the way up the castle to the top. First we saw the beautiful Sakura gardens that made the castle look like it was floating on a sea of pink pedals. Then we got close up the main part and had to make a decision whether or not to climb it. Nana decided that it just wasn't going to be possible for her, while the rest of decided to climb it's steep steps. Mr. Kuroda decided to stay and wait with Nana, so that she wouldn't feel lonely. Mrs. Kuroda, Mom, Miki, Kanoko, and I then trekked up the thousands of EXTREMELY steep and narrow staircases. As we climbed the castle, artifacts appeared on display that provided insights on the history of the area and the people who built the castle. There was also a floor that described what life was like in the castle. I'm just glad I never had to live on one of them, even if they are utterly amazing. My favorite artifact was the old wooden toilet. I really give those guys credit. They were not only beastly fighting Samurai, but they were able to figure out a way to put an indoor squatter in the castles. Genius. AFter burning out our legs in the climb, we reached the top of the White Heron. From the top there are nice views over the city of Himeji. Unfortunately, and fortunately from a different point of view, it took us a long time to get to the top. I used this time to talk with my new friends, Miki and Kanoko. At the top, Mom and I looked for Nana, but we were too far up. We would have stayed and enjoyed the sights more, but it was just far too crowded. So we headed back down the stairs, which was probably more painful than going up. Soon we departed the castle and met up with Nana, who had entertained Mr. Kuroda quite well. Leaving the grounds, Miki, Kanoko, and I stopped and purchased a delicious ice cream. Soon we had crossed the main moat and the heavy gates, and were finsihed with our tour of the lovely castle. The clock informed us that it was time for our train to Hiroshima, and thus time to say goodbye to our new friends. At the station, the hardest part was not saying goodbye, but not giving them hugs. Japanese people aren't very found of hugs, ad though I've become pretty accostumed to it, Mom and Nana have had some effect on me. We gave the girls some New Jersey teddy bears, and swapped cell phone emails along with promises to stay in touch. Then they left as we Mom and Nana and I got in line for our Shinkhansen train to Hiroshima. In the train heading to Hiroshima, Mom and Nana made a comment about just how wonderful the Kuroda family was for taking us around the way that they did, buying us lunch, and being all-around wonderful people. I think it was very nice of them, too. And now I have 2 new kind friends in Himeji, Japan. But I explained to them that it wasn't quite shocking for me. I have lived with these kind of people for 8 months. This is the country that I have grown to love beyond words. I'm not totally sure they understood, or if anyone will understand. But it is all that I can say to make some sort of sense of things. When we arrived in Hiroshima, we trampled through the station with the heavy annoying bags. Trying to walk to the hotel, Mom hailed a cab, even though the hotel was all of 10 steps away. Soon we were checking in. Nana and Mom breathed a sigh of utter relief when the desk operator announced that there was elevator access. In the room, they unpacked and got layed out in a rest. Nana and Mom both sampled the toilet budet, which is always an interesting occurence. For dinner, we had hoped on eating at the hotel, but there was some sort of a party going on, so we were on our own. I had earlier noticed a McDonalds in the Hiroshima Station, so we set out for some food. But Nana and Mom asked to stop at another place, Japanese CHinese food instead. Needless to say, the absolutely loathed their pork and dumpling mix, while I gorged on delicious Curry rice. But they were content, when I discovered a Haagan Daaz ice cream machine on the 3rd floor of the hotel. And then after they ate, we all slept. And it was a great sleep too...

Mount Shosha (Shoshazan) is the site of Engyoji, an atmospheric temple complex with a history of over 1000 years. Located at the edge of Himeji City, the mountain can be accessed in only 30 minutes from the city center by bus and ropeway. Engyoji's temple buildings are spread over a spacious, densely forested area on the mountain top. From the ropeway station it takes a 10-15 minute walk uphill to reach Niomon Gate, and another 10-15 minutes to reach the Maniden, a beautiful wooden temple hall, constructed on pillars on a steep slope.
Another five minute walk along forest trails brings you to the three massive wooden temple halls, known as mitsunodo: the Daikodo (main hall), Jikido (lodging and dining hall, and the last remaining one in Japan) and Jogyodo (gymnasium). In recent years, Mount Shosha has gained some fame overseas by having served as a film location for the Hollywood movie "The Last Samurai".
The gaijin with the wonderful Kuroda family on Mount Shosa. If the Kuroda's can read this, THANK YOU SO MUCH!
The great view of Himeji City from atop the Ropeway
A delicious Western lunch for Mom and Nana. Here I am with my new friends, Miki and Nako. I had such a wonderful time with these two girls, that it was hard to imagine that I had just met them!
Himeji Castle is a Japanese castle located in Himeji. It is one of the oldest surviving structures from medieval Japan. It is one of Japan's "Three Famous Castles", and is the most visited castle in Japan. It is occasionally known as Hakurojō or Shirasagijō ("White Heron Castle") because of its brilliant white exterior.
This is a support with all the ruling Shogun family crests. The one that looks like a 3-leaf clover is the Tokugawa crest, ruling from 1603 to to 1868. I like to take pictures of the family crests, because they really are cool
The self-guided tour around the grounds was easy to follow, before making the way up the castle to the top. The staircases inside are narrow (and Nana wasn't able to do) and you are required to remove your shoes, so watch your step. As you climb the castle, artifacts are on display that provide insights on the history of the area. My favorite was the old wooden toilet. I really give those guys credit. From the top there are nice views over the city of Himeji.
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