When Jersey Took Over Kyoto
April 2, 2007
Jetlag causes people to do crazy things. Mom and Nana were up and ready to go by 6:00. Needless to say, I was too. I had earlier planned to take Mom and Nana to a cheap breakfast at a local convenience store, but as soon as they saw the Hotel Western breakfast, they made other plans. Since I don't like breakfast, I just stole my mother's coffee and watched the woman receive a 'Western' breakfast. It took Mom a good few minutes to get used to the idea of eating a salad so early in the morning. I realized early that this trip would be a great experience for me to relive my early gaijin days. Little things like NEVER eating a salad for breakfast are the things I'd forgotten bothered me in those first few days and weeks. Judging from the hotel window, the weather looked like it would be cloudy but nice enough to do whatever we wanted. Mom and Nana were wide awake and not even real tired out from the previous day's bug adventure. It was decided that we would do the BIG walking day, mostly to get it out of the way. After they picked at their breakfast, eating only a few bites of the fat toast and stuff, we decided to head out. The Kyoto Traveler's Inn is located in a great spot in the city. Right across the street is the fabulous Heian-Jingu. While a brief walk to the right wil get you to Nanzenji and the Philosopher's Path. We set out at 7:00, and walked along the incredible Lake Biwa Canal with sweeping Sakura trees and all around great sides. Since today was the first day we had seen each other in about 8 months, we took LOTS of pictures. Our first stop was Nanzenji, and because we were SO early, we actually missed the entrance fee. I had planned on skipping this temple, but I'm so glad that we didn't. Legend has it that when former Japanese Emperor Kameyama withdrew to his retirement palace in Kyoto, a place today known as Nanzenji, disturbing things began to happen there. Doors flew open by themselves and the royal family felt ghostly hands press upon them. The Buddhist priest called to perform an exorcism burnt incense, prayed and chanted, but to no avail. The emperor turned next to the Zen priest, Fumon. In the year 1290, Fumon sat down in the palace and began to meditate. When he was through, the spectral squatter was gone. So impressed was Kameyama with the power of Zen (the story goes) that he handed over half of his palace to Fumon in order that he might teach Zen there. Nanzenji went on to become one of the Five Great Zen Temples of Kyoto. As the headquarters of the Nanzenji branch of the Rinzai school of Zen, it is also one of the most important Zen temples in the world. Rinzai Zen was introduced to Japan by the Chinese priest Ensai in 1191 and emphasizes the use of koans, paradoxical puzzles or questions that help the practitioner to overcome the normal boundaries of logic. A 15th-century war demolished the original temple buildings, but some were rebuilt during the 16th century. Though the temple was stunning, my favorite part was visiting the Canal Bridge thing. It was only built in 1890, when Kyoto lost it's right of being Japan's capital. The people of the city needed something to look forward to, so a large canal from the deepest lake in Japan, Lake Biwa, was constructed into the city. The architecture is really funky, and played a nice backdrop for some pictures with Mom and Nana. Constantly asking Nana if her her legs were okay, we left the temple and walked through a busy industrial section looking for the Philosopher's Path. The Walk of Philosophy, Tetsugaku no michi, is a pleasant path besides a canal that connects Ginkakuji the vicinity of Nanzenji. Sakura ees are planted along most of the over one kilometer long path, making it one of Kyoto's most popular spots for hanami (cherry blossom viewing) in spring. After a brief walk, in which Mom and Nana questioned my naviagation every 30 seconds, we discovered another temple, Eikando, which was closed because of the time. Disappointed, we trekked on till we found the gorgeois Cobblestone bridge that welcomed us onto the Philosoper's Path. Much to our pure luck, the Kyoto Sakura were in full bloom, and because it was so early in the morning, the crowds were non-existant. The 3 of us stolled slowly enjoying the atmosphere, occasionally stopping to take a few pictures, but all in all just enjoying being with each other after 8 months of separation. The path was named after the famous philosopher Nishida Kitaro, who liked to walk along this route and meditate on philosophical matters. Now I really don't think we were thinking in philosophy, unless Nana thinking about the next meal counts for something. But we tried, right? Along the path, we wandered off the explore some of the hidden gems. First we spotted a Japanese graveyear, which Mom and I climbed up to to see the family stone that was 30 times my age. Then, back on the path, we discovered the Ootoyojinja, or an entre Shinto shrine dedicated to the god of rats. I did the traditional Shinto prayer, while Mom tried to decide what kind of an idiot would build a shrine dedicated to rats. Oh yes- this was definitely a good experience for me to relive my early Japanese days. I know I would have been weirded out in the same way she was. But now, nothing the Japanese do ceases to suprise me. After we left this Shrine, and climbed back on to the Philosopher's Path, Nana asked if we could find a way to call Pop-pop. So on the gates of Honen-in we found a public phone, in which Nana called Pop, and Mom called SHannon and Dad. They took a long time! But when they were finished, we climbed up the steep hill that brought us to Honen-in. This small, secluded Jodo temple named after its founder, Honen, and is an oasis of serenity tucked up in the forested eastern hills. As you enter through the thatched, wooden gate, a pair of lovely raked-stone gardens appear, whose designs are changed regularly by the monks. The temple is not quite well-known, but I was bewitched by it's beauty. Such a small powerful little temple, covered in green, with no hint of the sprawling city just on the outside of the hills. The gates, thatched house type buildings, looked like something out of Ireland. Mom discovered this water fountain that she thought was very cool, while Nana discovered a phallic symbol. haha. Back on the Path, it seemed that the city had woken up in our absense. The path, which had been virtually abandoned 25 minutes earlier, was now sprawling with tourists and Hanami people. It was still a very beautiful atmosphere, though we were ready to reach our final destination of the morning, Ginkakuji. We had to climb a slope, filled with Omiyage shops, to get to the place. Since it was 9:30, the temples all had finally open, the smell of incense wafted through the air, as we paid the entrance fee for the temple. Ginkakuji or Silver Pavilion was established in 1482 by Ashikaga Yoshimasa, the 8th Ashikaga Shogun and grandson to Ashikaga Yoshimitsu who built Kinkakuji - the Golden Pavilion. While Kinkakuji was covered with gold leaf, Ginkakuji's was not covered in silver. The intention was there to do so by Yoshimasa, but he probably never got around to it. Despite the lack of pure silver covering, the architecture and well-kept grounds of Ginkakuji is extremely lovely. A remarkably spectacular zen garden featuring a mini Mt Fuji, and other temple buildings, is one of the first things you see upon entrance. There are pathways that brings you deeper into the wooded areas surrounding the temple and finally up onto an observatory where you get a nice view of the temple with Kyoto city in the background. Ginkakuji was not initially intended to be a Zen temple, and was only converted to one after Yoshimasa's death in 1490. When we were finsihed exploeing the grounds, we wandered back down the Omiyage filled streets of the Ginkakuji Path. Nana stopped to buy a Kamikaze headband for my little cousin, Robbie. The morning was long and tiring, but we had gotten everything, I wanted to accomplish done with. Luckily, Nana was still in good condition. Thus we caught a cab heading to Maruyama Park in the Downtown area. WHen we were dropped off, I first wanted to explore the grounds of another temple CHion-in. It was located on the top of a steep staircase, which was difficult for my Nana. Chion'in Temple, is the headquarters of the Jodo Shu, founded by Honen, who proclaimed that sentient beings are reborn in Amida Buddha's Western Paradise by reciting the nembutsu, Amida Buddha's name. We entered Chion-in through the largest temple gate in Japan--the Sanmon gate. In fact, the gate, dating back to 1619, is an important cultural property and is acclaimed as the biggest wooden example of gate genre in the world. But what I thought was strange about the gate, was that it was not connected to the temple in any other way. It was actually at the bottom of steep steps connecting to the Great Hall. To get inside, all you have to do is take your shoes off and carry them in a plastic bag. Nana had a bit of a hard time, but we were all successful in climbing the steep wooden steps into the main room. The great hall can hold up to 3,000 and on the day of our visit was holding a religious ceremony. This sect of Buddhism believes that by merely repeating Buddahs name, one can obtain salvation. Being perfectly honest, I was a little weirded out by the scenario. I've been here long enough to know that the Japanese religion is open to anyone and everyone, so it wasn't feeling out of place. But I felt awkward listening to the priests sing and do religious movements with followers, who seemed so intent on the action. I'm not sure that that makes any sense, whatsoever. Probably not. I could have left at anytime, especially because it was so weird for me, but my Mom and Nana found it all very interesting. Back on the grounds, we watched as a bus tour walked sround the temple reciting Budda's name. Chionin is also home to the largest bell in Japan, weighing some 74 tons and cast in 1633. I got to see that enormous bell as well. Down the steep slope, our stomachs growling, we walked into the famous Kyoto Sakura spot, Maruyama Kouen. We next went to Maruyama Kouen, a park known in Kyoto for having the best Sakura. It was only 11:00 and it was so crowded! But the beauty of the park was really enchanting. Hundreds of thousands of Sakura trees were in full bloom as we strolled through the crowded paths. I had planned on getting some food and maybe doing some Hanami with Nana and Mom. But there was one little problem. The two essentially refused to eat any Japanese food.I ended up running around the park looking for edible food for the woman. I found a Grilled CHicken place, but they complained it was much too gummy for them. After the lunch, and little rest I promised Nana to take her shopping. So we made our way through the brillantly red Yasaka Shrine at the edge of the Gion district, and on to the Sanjo-dori. Passing by the west side of Sanjo Bridge we came to the Sanjo Shopping District. This is one of the oldest shopping districts in Kyoto. It is always crowded with people. It is a quiant wide street with the shops all painted white and green and lanterns hung for a nighttime stroll. The shops were all traditional Omiyage shops, but right in the middle of the rich tradition was a Starbucks. I couldn"t help but laugh at that one. We didn"t do quite as much shopping, because none of the stuff really catered to what we were looking for. Mom did buy some paper for ber bosses wife. We also toured the Handicraft Center, with no luck. I expected Mom and Nana to have been dead from the intensity of today's walking, but shopping always seems to give them a nice power boast. They didn't even try to kill me, when I told them about my last destination, Kiyomizudera, which was located on a hill. With no luck on Sanjo-dori, we headed up a hilly street headed for the temple that everyone I know recommended I see. First, I spotted a long narrow steep hill, and curiosity took hold. I ploppled Nana and Mom down and then trekked up the empty road to Daiun-in. It seems like no guide book or internet site has any information on this VERY far off the beaten path temple called Daiun-in. I climbed up the steep slopes, after plopping down Mom and Nana. There wasn't anything special, except for this brilliant quote. "To question life and death. it is here that one discovers the meaning of life." At this particular temple, I did not discover the meaning of life. But it was so important to me, because at Kiyomizudera, I certainly discovered something. Back down the hill, Mom and Nana waited patiently, as I directed them to the Sannenzaka. Retaining the flavor of the old lifestyle of Kyoto citizens, this pedestrian road consists of a series of stone pavements and steps lined on both sides with traditional Kyoto-style houses of merchants and souvenir shops in the "sukiya" style. The road corresponds to the approach to the Koyasu Kannon to which people pray for easy delivery in childbirth. San, which means three, can also be used in the superstition that if you slip once while going up the slope, you will have 3 long years of bad luck. No slippng for me! We made a few shopping stops, with not too much luck. And finally at the top of the slope, Nana found a seat and declared she was not moviing another step. So Mom and I continued up the stairs to the World Renowned Kiyomizudera Temple. My Mom and I climb the steep steps leading to the Niomon Gate with its imposing protector statues that keep evil out of the temple. Gate and statues date from 1478, which makes it the oldest extant structure. Up another flight of steps, gradually climbing to higher spheres, I next see the Bell Tower featuring a 2.3 ton heavy bell dating from 1478 on my left; and on my right stands the brightly vermilion Three-storied Pagoda, which looks surprisingly new as it was repainted in 1987. Next we passed the Sutra Hall and the closed Founder's Hall. At the Todoriki-mon, another gateway, we paid the modest entrance fee to the priest on duty and then finally reached the side of the main hall. As famous as Kiyomizu's hall is the wooden stage in front of it, built upon a towering scaffold against the hillside. A total of 139 sturdy poles is used to support the heavy wooden structure. We enjoyed the view over the valley and the city to the right. I feel in love with this particular temple. Kiyomizudera, was founded in 780 and remains associated with the Hosso sect, one of the oldest sects within Japanese Buddhism. Kiyomizudera stands in the wooded hills of eastern Kyoto and offers visitors a nice view over the city from its famous wooden terrace. But the best part was the lookout spot. The huge roof soars up like a mighty ship from the cliff-side, the poles supporting the platform rise up from the bottom of the valley, and the entire scheme of Kiyomizu, from the elegant vermilion pagoda on the left to the Inner Hall lies before your eyes. From the Main Hall, steps lead down to Otowa no Taki, a small waterfall fed by the original spring that gave the temple its name. (Clear Water Temple) Visitors stand in line to catch the water in ladles and drink it. We believe that the curative power attributed to Kiyomizu's water will be strong enough. After all those who drink the water are said to live long and healthy lives with luck in all of our studies. Formerly, ascetic monks would stand under the cold stream of the waterfall, performing the takigyo rite. In fact, the water falls down in three narrow streams, symbolizing the Buddha, his Law and the Priesthood. I bought a Kiyomizudera cup, waited in line, and got a cup of the water from the falls. I drank some and then brought the rest for Nana and Mom. It was an experience I will never forget. I don't know if the water has healing powers and whatnot. But being able to say that I drank the water from one of the most beautiful places in the world, is really something. What made it even greater, was that for the first time in 8 months, I had my Mom along side of me. She and I bonded in a way we hadn't done so in nearly a year. Perhaps the power of Kannon, the Boytislava that Kiyomizudera is dedicated to, that made my experience so special. I'd like to think so anyway. Coming back down the temple, and I knew in my heart that it wasn't the last time I would be seeing it. I wouldn't be able to stay from the temple for the rest of my life. We soon found Nana, who was about to die from being so tired. And the first thing we did was find a cab t take us back to the hotel. The first cab we tried to get into was a turquoise color, and a fowl driver. I knocked on the window and as soon the man saw that I was not Japanese, he declined service. I was horrified because I have never met any experience where someone has denied me something based on appearence or Nationality. The Japanese have been more than wonderful to me, and seeing a nasty character was a first time occurence for me. The next cab I knocked on took us to the hotel, where after the 4 floor climb, Nana crashed on the bed. For about an hour we layed in the room, talking and catching up on 8 months of separation. And at about 4, I couldn't stop the Travel Bug inside from wanting to do more exploring. Most of the temples close at 5 or 5:30, so I was anxious. The closest place from the hotel was the baby Heina-jingu. By baby, I mean it is only about 110 years old. By Kyoto standards, that's very young. Mom wanted to come with me, but Nana wanted to rest, so we set out just the two of us. Founded in 1895 to commemorate Kyoto's 1100th anniversary, the Shrine, was dedicated to Emperor Kanmu who founded the capital and Emperor Komei the last Emperor to reign before the capital was moved to Tokyo. The Main Gate and Great Hall of State and other brightly colored buildings are smaller-scale replicas of buildings in the first imperial palace built 794. But to get to the Shrine you have to pass under an enormous Red/Orange Torii gate about 24 meters tall. I have a little fetsih with Torii gates, so you can imagine my excitement entering through these gigantic gateways to the spirtual world. The building is realling stunning. For an extra cost, we entered the gardens surrounding the Shrine. The Shin'en consists of four gardens which surround the main shrine buildings on the south, west, middle, and east. With a total area of approximateley 33,000 square meters, these stroll-style landscape gardens are designated as a national scenic spot representative of Meiji-era garden design. Mom and I strolled through and watched as they set up lights for a night time viewing of the gardens. Sakura literally cascade from the trees and special frame work structures built around the trees. The ponds and streams add to the beauty of the gardens. There is a picturesque covered bridge where you can sit and contemplate the gardens around you. When we returned to the hotel, Mom got Nana and we went to the restaurant for dinner. The food was absolutely terrible. And thus began Mom and Nana's struggle with Japanese food. But I took them to a Convenience store, where Nana found her Savior, packs of Haagan Daaz Ice Cream. Back in the room, I shocked Mom and Nana by announcing I was going to the Public Bath. I used to freak when Mom would come into the bathroom if I was in the tub naked, now I take baths with people I don't know. WHat happened to me? Japan happened to me.
