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Meeting My Third Host Family

December 18, 2007
I've been in my current family, the Oono's, for a whole month now. Crazy how time is flying by. Anyways December 18 at 6:30 I got in the car with Otosan and Okasan Oono. It was so cold and I was wearing my uniform like usual. We went to this hotel about 20 minutes from my home. I'd never been there before. I walked upstairs and was greeted by Matsumoto-san and 2 lovely people, my next host parents. He sat me at the middle of the table, across from the Oono's and my next family. Soon Otosan Masaki, who was placed right next to me, arrived for the dinner and we began the discussion. Firstly the adults talked about my likes and dislikes, my life, and all about my exchange. They were trying to give my new family a little taste of what I am like. I got to speak. "What's you favorite food?" "Meat and Okonomiacki" haha. Matsumoto-san is under the false impression I actually lost weight. haha. If he only knew... But then something about me must have changed in the past 4 months. Earlier in this week my Otosan Oono mentioned how grown up I look as opposed to how I looked when I got her. Hmm.. just a thought. Sakioka arrived later and gave me my upcoming schedule as well as showed everyone a picture of me he always carried of me in this wallet. The worst part os that it is literally the worst picture I have ever taken. haha. My next host mom, like my current host mom, was shocked when they all told her I don't like to eat breakfast. Next me and my current host mom had everyone cracking up when we told them how I am able to get internet in my room. (By hacking into someone from the surronding area's wireless.) haha. Otosan Masaki nearly choked from laughter. Then they talked about me and my activities. About how I originally did Track but now am a member of the Koto, Tea Ceremony, and Traditional Japanese dance club. Matsumoto-san also gave the new family the URL to my "incredible" website. They continued to talk about me and my exchange. My Japanese is terrible because I understood very little of what was being said. But from what I did get. The conversation was mostly praise. As for my next family; host mom and host dad live about 30 minutes by bike from Tosajoshi, my high school. But I may end up taking the bus to and from school. It hasn't been decided but I think I would prefer to take a bike. Anyway, they have 4 kids, 3 cats, and also live with an obachan and ojichan (grandparents). 8 people plus me and 3 cats. Pretty awesome right? The kids range from the oldest a middle school Sanensee (9th grader) to the youngest a elementary school inchinensee (1st grader.) They are also a very busy family. One daughter is an amazing syncronized swimmer, one child plays piano, and the two others also have busy schedules. None of the kids goes to Tosajoshi, so I'll probably be riding my bike or taking the bus everyday by myself. That's about the most I got about my next host family. But in 2 months I'll be able to tell you a lot more. Anyway, the dinner was served and the adults continued to talk. Otosan Masaki brought up my mother and Nana's upcoming visit to Japan. The plan was to visit Tokyo for 4 days, Hiroshima for 1 day, and Kochi for 4 days. But the Rotarians strongly suggested we change Tokyo to Kyoto, and even offered to help pay for it, which I respectfully declined. Rotary has done so much for me. I couldn't ask them to do anymore. But Kyoto is apparently gorgeous with the Sakura, or cherry blossom at their peak. As for my Rotary events, I am pretty much done with the exception of Okayama in Febuary and then Saying Goodbye in July. Unfortunately this also means no more traveling for me except until my Mom and Nana come visit. Everyone seemed very excited about meeting my parents. After dinner was finished, we all got coffee. Masaki otosan "Well she's an adult now..." (see KURASHIKI for explanation.) Pretty soon it was time to head back home. I shook hands with my next Otosan. I find it so funny when Japanese people shake hands. It's not part of Japanese custom but they try very hard to impress foreigners. Usually though they do it the wrong way. But I always admire when they try anyway. After that I bowed to them. A little change of customs. I think I'm finally getting this bowing thing down pacted. Maybe. With my current host family, we drove out to the area of my next family. Though we couldn't find the house, we did see my next Otosan's enormous company. Back at home, me and my host mom had a drawing contest.. haha. We both agreed that art is not exactly our specialty. I went to bed feeling pretty loved.

From Ordinary to Extraordinary

December 16, 2007
The 16th marked a pretty big milestone in my life as a Japanese student. I completed an entire term in the Japanese school year. September 1 thru December 16, everyday from Monday thru Saturday, saw me at Tosajoshi High School in the heart of Kochi. When I woke up on the morning of the 16th, I didn't exactly have anything special planned. I was happy because not only was it the last day of the term, it was the start of my 3 week long Winter Break. I got ready and sat on the couch and waited for my host cousin Eri to get ready. Eri was running late, so when we finally got to our bikes, she agreed to let me take the lead. It's a bit of a struggle when the other one of us takes the lead. I take my bike and basically rocket to school in like 12 minutes, stopping only at traffic lights (sometimes...) While Eri goes slow and steady. It's kind of like the tortoise and the hare. But for how different Eri and I are, I really enjoy living with her. It's never boring. Anyway I took the lead and got us to school in the nick of time. Eri probably had a minor heartattack on the way to school from the speed I was going. Poor girl... haha. I climbed the 3 floors to my classroom and settled in the nice warm room with my classmates. I then texted Shiho, sitting right in front of me. I always yell at her when she goes on her cell phone during class. SO I typed her a message. "Shiho is very bad. Good Morning! Julie." When she got it she cracked up and smacked my arm. The day started and we were assigned to end of term cleaning. Of course my class got the lovely toilet cleaning duty. Lovely, right? Especially since Japanese toilets are those filthy little squatters. But Me, SHiho, and Megumi got lucky. We only had to clean the mirrors and the sinks. So for the next half and hour I scrubbed those sinks till the squeeled. Then we headed back to the classroom to get ready for the Closing Ceremony. Me, Shiho, and Kaori headed down to the gym, which was already overflowing with nearly 2,000 screaming Tosajoshi girls. God I love this place. I remember being told I was going to an All Girls school and groaing in agony. Now I look around and feel so grateful because I seriously have the best school. It's kind of like a giant never ending sleepever with these girls. We settled with our class sections. Yano homeroom was in the middle of the gym. I was just one girl in uniform among thousands. And soon the principal's speech was underway. I couldn't understand a word so I opted to annoy the crap out of Shiho. After the long speech we headed back to homeroom for the last 20 minutes of class. I was waiting with my suprise for my classmates. I had made my 43 classmates and 1 teacher Christmas gifts. Okay-sure, Christmas is really small and insignificant here. But it's not in America and thus I want to spread a little of that tradition. The present was my American homemade pins with 2 Jolly Rancher candies and a hand written note in Japanese. Thus with 10 minutes left in class, Yano-sensei called me up. I jumped on to the podium and yelled MERRY CHRISTMAS! Then I told them in America friends exchange gifts on Christmas. Then I began passing on the little envelopes with the gifts inside. To everyone I gave a a present I said Merry Christmas, and was returned with Arigatou! Aimi looked at me with shock that I had pulled this off. I had only told one person about what I was doing, Shiho, and she had kept the secret. When the gift giving for my classmates was finished, Santa Julie had one more gift for Yani-sensei. He was so happy and kept saying "This must have taken you a long time." I didn't want to tell him that it took me longer than what he thought. I was just so happy and am pretty sure everyone else was as well. Aimi did a count of 3 thing when everyone said Thank You. I confirmed the line "It's better to give than to receive" After school ended I went to the library to finish my Japanese comic reading. Then at 12 I met Kitazoe-sensei and Arakawa-sensei for lunch. We went to my favorite place, Hakobe, and made Okonomiacki. I'm finally getting the hang of the flipping thing. I gave each of my teachers a Christmas card, which they enjoyed. Christmas cards are nonexitant here, instead the send New Years Cards. After we lunch we went for coffee and toast. Then I was heading home to my host family. Back at home, Eri was packing up to head back home. Sadly enough, I probably wouldn't see her till after Christmas. So I gave her present today. It was that Christmas tree hat, which I'm pretty positive that she absolutely loved. In fact she put it on almost immediately and wore it as she waved goodbye. I had the pleasure of meeting Chika, a 5 year old little boy with American Japanese parents. Thus he is a half. His English was great and his Japanese was even better. We went to a food store, and he and I played tag throughout the entire store. It was great for me because I haven't been around little kids since the summer. I haven't lost my touch... haha. Afterwards we got some cake and went back home to eat it. Chika and I ate quickly, then he fell asleep pretty quickly. I went upstairs and got ready for Sae Hirosue's music concert. At 6:30, Hirosue-sensei, Yurie, and Yuki picked me from outside the Oono's house. We headed to Kochi Museum and waited for Sae-mama to play. She played with her teachers and was incredible. I don't remember the name of the instrument but it was very cool. I also liked watching Koto players. Especially now that I have started playing the Koto. After the concert, I went out to dinner with the Hirosue family. We bascially went to the nicest and most expensive Steak restaurants in Kochi. I asked Yurie to speak to me in Japanese, but she esentially refused. So I spent the entire meal in English. It was certainly delicious, although a bit too expensive for my taste. Back in Hirosue-sensei's Rolls Royce, Yurie and I rocked out to the Beatles until we pulled up back in front of my house. My host mom greeted me back and I gave Yurie and hug goodbye. Up in my room a pachage had come, and I tore it open. A bunch of gifts for my families and a huge box of Retro Candy for me fr Christmas. Okay so I wasn't supposed to open it till Christmas but the pachage was already open anyway. And thus my day, which had every intention of being ordinary turned into extrordinary day. Kind of like my exchange so far.

Deck The Halls With Boughs of Sushi

December 24-25, 2006
They say Christmas is supposed to be the hardest part of an exchange student's year abroad. At my Orientation for Rotary Youth Exchange, the leaders all warned the students that Christmas was going to be tough no matter where you went. Whether you celebrated a big Christan holiday with host families in Spain, a Rotary sponsored even for poor French children to enjoy Christmas in France, or in an Asian country where Christmas isn't even celebrated. Because Christmas is about family and spending time with the ones you love. And as an exchange student, we are probably on the other side of the world from the ones we love. We were told it is natural to get homesick, and that we shouldn't worry about it in the least. That being said, I did not have an ounce of homesickness of the Christmas of 2006. I almost feel bad saying that I didn't miss home at all, but I don't want to lie. The thing I don't understand is why I didn't miss home. After all, this Christmas was very frosty, and I'm not even talking about the weather. Currently, I live with my second host family, the Oono's. I know that my host mom and her son, Yohei, and niece, Eri like me alot. But I really don't know whether my host father does or not. He seems very cold and distant from everyone in the family. But since it was coming on Christmas, I figured that everyone would be in good spirits. Christmas is Christmas, no matter what. As usual, though I was very wrong. In America, Christmas in my family starts in late November. Usually a little after Thanksgiving, my Mom and Dad head up into the attic and bring down the brilliantly fake Christmas tree. It is quite big, and even though it is as fake as Jolly Old Saint Nicolas, it is still gorgeous, especially when my Mom burns some pine tree candles and lets the aroma if true Christmas trees drift throughout the house. Barely five minutes fater it is set up, my sister and I are fighting to throw on the ornaments. After we are finished, Mom always has to redo about 50 ornaments, because Shannon and I always put the balls in the front. Even the really ugly ones. It seems like every year, I put Jerry Garcia's ornament in the front of the tree, but by Christmas, I always make a note that it is placed out of visible sight. But our family Christmas ornaments are beautiful and plentiful. And even though Shannon and I are terrible at picking spots, the tree always looks amazing when it is finished. In Mid-November, a few days after I arrived in the Oono house, Mari-chan went into her own attic and brought down the Christmas tree. I was so eager to get it painted with the greens and reds of ornaments, that I was shocked when Mari-chan stopped to tell me something before taking her tree out of the box. She began with why she bought the tree. When her son, Yohei was little and his school asked all the parents to partake in bringing Santa Clause to the young children. Mari-chan, annoyed, went out and bought the tree for Yohei's Santa Clause Christmas. Then she told me that the following year, Yohei stopped believing in Santa Clause, and thus the tree was kept into the attic for all this time. But she brought it down for me, because she had read that Americans are very much into celebrating Christmas. I watched in eagerness as she pulled out a few sticks from the box, and then placed the box away. She began playing with the sticks and fiddling them to fit into a stand. Annoyed, I asked her what she was doing, and where the tree was. She looked at me like I was insane, then replied, 'this is the tree.' Now seriously, this stick was not a Christmas tree. This stick was not even really a stick, but more a metal attempt to make a pole with little green pine needles. I wondered if maybe she was trying to reenact the scene from Charlie Brown Christmas, in which I was to make fun of the tree. Then Woodstock and Snoopy would come and turn it into the cutest little thing ever. But as I looked at her face, I knew she was not kidding. When Eri and I finsihed decorating the Christmas tree, or whatever you want to refer to the thing, I was delighted to see that it had shaped up alot. It still wasn't a Christmas Tree, or even a Charlie Brown Tree, but it had potential in it's own strange little way. When Christmas finally arrived in Kochi, I had begun to accept that would be very very different than the ones I had celebrated in America. The Japanese have no spiritual or religious basis for Christmas. While in the west there is a slight pretense towards a celebration of the birth of Christ, and years of tradition of families gathering, here in Japan the holiday is completely imported, and largely market driven. My Christmas experience here started with music. Early December, every store was heard playing Christmas music. English-language Christmas music. And not just Bing Crosby roasting mistletoe in an open sleigh, but in the cheap Sunday market strange Vegetable stands, I heard Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer. This was the touchstone moment; after which the even more peppy versions of songs that meant family and tradition that I heard as I was shopping for rice balls in over-lit convenience stores fit readily into my holiday. But don't be fooled by this, music does not mean the actual thing. Like when they play the Chariots of Fire music on the news. I come running out of the bathroom in hopes of watching a good movie for a change, only to find a segment on a Veterinarian claiming to have discovered the reincarnated form of Ebisu, the Happy god, in the body of a Bulldog. The point is that Japan can fool anyone with it's use of classical music. But the first indicator that Christmas in Japan was not going to be an American Christmas was on the Friday before the the weekend, at my final Koto practice before Winter vacation. Chiake Yamanaka, the leader of the Koto club, asked me to be in the club room at 9 AM on the morning of December 25, 2007. I thought she was obviously joking around with me, but her serious face gave no indicator of a joke. Thus far, I have come to every Saturday school day, and not complained about it, and done everything anyone has ever asked me to do here in Japan, even if it was against my own personal views. But coming to school, even if it was only for club practice, on Christmas was pushing it. I would be breaking the laws of the American government, which gives Christmas Day holiday to all employees regardless of religion. Chiake was really disappointed and questioned my reasons for not coming. I was truthful with her, "It's Christmas." She looked and me, trying to break me down, replied, "So? In Japan, Christmas is not a special holiday." You are right about that one. The population of Japan, about 125 million people, has a large percentage of Christians or a Christian heritage. Well large compared to other Asian nations. 1/2 of 1% of the Japanese population is estimated to be Christian, with the majority of Japanese being tolerant of all faiths: Buddhism, Christianity, Shinto, etc. A good way to view the Japanese religion is of the following: In Japan, 8 millions of gods are said to live. Everything has its god, i.e, furnace has god of furnace, toilet has god of toilet. They are going well each other nevertheless of occasional quarrels. And they are so generous to permit some other gods to join as their friends. Thus, the Japanese added Buddha as one of their gods, when Buddhism was imported into Japan. Next came Jesus Christ, and his festivities. December 25th is not a national holiday in Japan, although December 23rd, which is the birth date of the present emperor, is. But in Japan, those who do celebrate Christmas, do so on the night before, Christmas Eve. My host family, not unlike the rest of Japan, celebrated Christmas in a very Japanese manner. In recent years, thanks to the marketing prowess of the folks at Kentucky Fried Chicken, the Christmas Chicken Dinner has become quite popular. Many Japanese even make reservations for their "Christmas Chicken" ahead of time. People line up at their outlets to pick up their orders. As a result of KFC's brilliant advertising campaign, most Japanese now believe that Westerners celebrate Christmas with a chicken dinner instead of the more common ham or turkey. So on December 24th, when my host Mom asked me what type of Chicken my family would be eating back in America, I looked at her like she was crazy. I told her the truth, Chicken is rarely eaten for Christmas. Instead families eat Ham and Turkey. My family was probably going to sinking their teeth into a giant bird of Turkey the next day. I don't really think she believed me, which means the advertisers of KFC are doing a job well-done in Japan. Just before dinner, I was typing up a new entry for my website, and smelling a curiously delicious odor. Then my host mom called me and Yohei down for dinner. It would only be 3 of us, because Eri had returned to her family for Winter vacation, and Oono Otosan doesn't like to spend time with his family if he can help it. Downstairs, Yohei and I took some pictures in front of the tree, which had suddenly sprouted some Christmas presents with my name on them. Mari-Chan urged me to open them before we began eating, but I laughed it off. We always wait to open presents on Christmas morning. At the table, I was amazed to see huge Chicken Teriyaki legs on our plates. Yohei was on his second bone, by the time I took my first bite. I was too amazed to eat at a normal pace. I know that it was only Christmas Eve, but I was aware that Christmas Day is not even really a holiday. SO that Christmas Eve is the true celebratory event. KFC on Christmas Eve is just one of those things that people joke about for years. Dinner was rather quiet, actually. I had nothing to say, and neither did anyone else. Looking back, and I'm surprised that I didn't think about home the whole time. I knew my family was not celebrating Christmas Ever till tomorrow morning (in time differences.) And I also knew that they were going to celebrate it with some neighbors and friends, while I was sitting at a quiet table with a Christmas tree the size of a Petunia, eating Colonel Sander's finest meat. Good lord. Immediately after we were finished the meal, the true piece of Christmas food was served. In Japan, Christmas cake is a frosted sponge cake with strawberries, chocolates or seasonal fruit. Cake shops throughout Japan always try to sell all their Christmas cakes before Christmas eve. Any cakes left after Christmas are seen to be very old or out of date. Women over 25 years old used to be said 'unsold Xmas cake.' It's a bit bad joke, though. However, nowadays, the average age for marriage has changed, getting older and older, and it is history. Still, leave it to the Japanese to insult woman and Christmas cake all at once. The cake actually wasn't very good at all. Mari-chan said that because the bake shop was the most popular in the city, Christmas cakes were made too quick to give any good taste. After dinner, I excused myself and headed for the tub. Immediately afterwards, I went to bed. Christmas was sucking for me. When I woke the next morning, I sort of wished I went to Koto club. The house was empty, because Yohei had a baseball tournament. I was left in the big house on Christmas morning all alone. The way I formed that last sentence, sounds like it was a horrible way to spend Christmas. But actually I was quite happy. First I got dressed and went for a long run throughout the country side. It was a Monday morning, and traffic was bad. People were going to work, kids going to their clubs, and life was not stopping at all for a holiday so dear to mot Americans. When I got home, I opened my presents. I got a stuffed animal Neko Bus, from the Japanese anime, Totoro, and some other Totoro stationary. I also got a ceramic New Years set with the 12 animals, which was to be laid out around New Years. The tree, I noticed had actually disappeared from sight. Mari-chan later told me that she wanted to put it away as it was no longer really Christmas. The Christmas miracle was not in the form of world peace, holiday romance, or anything life that. It was in that I didn't get homesick. To be honest, Christmas was not a very special day for me. I'm not complaining because, in theory, I celebrated the way the Japanese celebrate the holiday. On Christmas Day for dinner, I sat around the table with Mari-chan, Yohei, and even Oono Otosan. While the family talked about Yohei's baseball tournament, I tried very hard to suppress a painful laughter gathering in my stomach. While the Garner's back in America celebrated their Christmas dinner with mounds of gravy-smothered Turkey, piles of Baked Potatoes, Potato Salad, Sweet Yams, Cream Cheese Covered Celery (don't ask) followed by luscious Cheesecake, Chocolate covered strawberries, Candy-canes, and sugar cookies, I, on the other side of the world, was eating Sushi. This is definitely the way it is supposed to be.

Christmas Celerations With 2 Kochi Rotary Clubs

December 21, 2006- Chuo Rotary
My host father is a member of the Chuo Rotary club. Thus on thursday the 21st, My host parents and I attended the Chuo Rotary Club Christmas Party. It was at the same place as my meet with the next family. We walked in and were greeted by 2 Santa Clauses and Rudolph. I just want to point that both Santas were about 100 lbs., looked Asian, and could speak perfect Japanese. Boy is that Santa Clause talented! Anyways we sat down and my host father went about at his duty of being the photographer. My host mom talked with the lady sitting next to her. I tried to do the polite Japanese bowing. But I'm pretty sure I got it wrong each time. Finally dinner was served. I only ate one dish but I tried all the weird fish stuff. Santa Clause soon came around and gave all the kids gifts. I got a library card. Me and my host mom had our eyes on the cake, so you imagine what we did next. Then I noticed a friend from school, so I went and talked with her for a while. Afterwards a famous magician came to perform at the party. I spent the time trying very hard to figure out how he was doing all the tricks. Later, the adults all received gifts after a few rounds of of Junkin (epitomie of Rock Paper Scissors.) Then it was time for the grand finally. Everyone had to hold hands and sing the Rotary song. Very interesting.

December 22, 2006- Nishi ROtary
At 5:30 I hopped in the car with my host father and we drove to a different Kochi hotel. At the hotel I said goodbye to my host father and waited with Yurie Hirosue. I yelled at her to speak to me in Japanese, which lasted for about 5 seconds. Masako quickly arrived, followed my my counselor Matsumoto-san, and we were ushered into the banquet hall. Nishi Rotary Club is (probably) my sponsor club. It is compromised of about 60 members, all of whom are slightly old. Though they certainly know how to have a fun time. We sat down in the back of the room and waited for the party to begin. The party began with a loud version of "All I Want For Christmas Is You" Soon we were whicked on stage for a small speech. For the past 7 Rotary visits I have done the same introductory speech. But tonight I blew Matsumoto-san's doors off with my new speech. I'd been practicing all day and it was good. Plus the added smiles were a plus. Looking out onto the 70 or 80 people, I could see that almost everyone was impressed. "Everybody, Good Evening. I have been n Japan for 4 months! I have alot of friends and everyday is exciting. My clubs are Japanese Harp, Tea Ceremony, and Traditional Japanese Dance. This winter break I am very busy with my clubs. For tonight, I thank you all very much. MERRY CHRISTMAS!" Short and sweet, I kicked butt. haha. Masako and Yurie went next with long speeched about American life. Afterwards, back at the table dinner was served. Lots of sushi. And I suprised myself (and apparently everyone else) by actually enjoying most of it. Matsumoto-san commented to Yurie and Masako that with my eating all this raw fish, understanding a good majority of what was being said to me, as well as participating in Tea Ceremony, Dance, and playing the Koto, I am turning Japanese. To be perfectly honest, I think I am turning Japanese. After dinner 10 Japanese Santa's cam around handing out candy. Then the Christmas auction began. My first gift was a beautiful Okashi bowl painted in a traditional Japanese style. The auction went on as Yurie, Masako, and me joked around in Japanglish. Then my next and BIG gift was purchased. A Handcrafted Geisha art piece was purchased at a hefty sum all for me. I was shocked and very thankful. It was hard accepting such an enormous gift. Soon enough the party was finished. Matsumoto herded Me, Yurie, and Masako to his car. There he gave us real sheep skin slippers and real sheep fun seat covers. The ride back to my house was illed with endless thank yous. Christmas with Rotary has been an amazing affair

The Race Is On...

December 28, 2006
When you ask people what they think of Americans, you usually get some interesting answers. For 4 lovely Tosajoshi Ichinensee girls named Aimi, Shoko, Tomoko, and Mosa, the answer would have been, Americans are fast eaters. But that would have been back in September, when their fascinating (and gorgeous) Exchange student lunch mate ate like a typical American, at typical Nascar speeds. But 4 months have taken a toll on me, I'm afraid. I now eat like a average Japanese girl. My tiny bento takes me about half and hour to finish. Now during lunch time, Aimi takes first place, followed by Mosa. I come in at a steady third place. Dinner every night at my current host family, the Oono's, is another story. My host cousin Eri takes nearly a century to get past the rice bowl, while my host brother Yohei eats like an American. He's done in 5 minutes. Sometimes when I watch him eat I remember the good old days, when I didn't need to take a breath before the next bite, when after chewing I didn't have to put down my chop sticks and pretend to understand the current conversation. That got me thinking. I wondered if I still had it in me, to eat like I used to. And thus at dinner I made my plan. I was going to beat Yohei and reclaim my place as an American, and not just an exchange student pretending to be Japanese. Oh yes. Dinner was at a Curry restaurant, yummy. I got Roast Pork and Rice covered with Curry, while Yohei got Chicken and Rice covered in Curry and a salad. More food. I had this race in the bag. Haha. And when the waitor came back to serve us, we began. The whistle was blown, the checkered flag waved in the distance, the referree throwing the ball into the air. We were off. I suffered some minor set backs. First my severe illness of Neko Jitae, or cat tongue, burned. Basically the illness compromises of an inability to eat or drink hot foods. Japanese people find it unnatural with the amount of hot tea they drink. And I'm made aware of this often. My next pit stop came in the form of spicey Curry. My throat burned with spice. And yet I refused to allow these set backs to let me lose this battle. But I don't think I can prolong this with details of the epic race... so yeah, I lost. It was close, but my lose was painful. My dignity! But as I'm sitting here now typing this, my throat and tongue are burning from the hot food, nursing a wicked stomacheache, and feeling full as a Goog (thank you Althea!) I have come to realize and accept something. Tommorrow my bento will be eaten at a nice slow Japanese pace. I might not finish till 2007, but hey what the heck. My sanity is just about gone anyway.

Winter Break Shenanigans

December 27, 2006-Yurie and I
I have followed every single Tosajoshi/ Host Family/ Rotary rule known to man kind. Yurie has also been a bit of a goody two shoes. So I think Troublemakers is definitely an overstatement. But then again Cell Phones?!? Uniforms In Public?!?! We are bad girls! So on tuesday night I drove my bike to Tosajoshi to meet Yurie. We drove halfway to Aeon, the Kochi shopping center, and stopped for a quick bite to eat with Yurie's mother and sister. I gave them their presents, which they simply adored. Sae-mama also mentioned she bought me a pink Ipod. I was like WHAT!?!?!?! We couldn't stay long because we were meeting a friend at the mall. Back on our bikes, we made the 5 minute ride with only one crash. *chuckles* At the mall we met with the friend and then did some shopping. I almost bought something, but I opted out to try on jeans. I can actually fit into Japanese jeans. How amazing is that? After a while, Yurie's friend had to leave, so Yurie and I were stuck together. Thus we did my favorite thing ever! PRIKURA! And as you can see from the lovely decorations. We certainly had an enjoyable Prikura session. After this, we bought some Takoyaki and talked about America. I couldn't believe it when I looked at my watch and saw the time. Unfortunatly we had to say goodbye, and rode off into the night. hehe

December 28, 2006- Kaho to ishoni
Today I got the opportunity to hang out with my very good friend, Kaho, whom you may recognize from my Sweet 16 pictures. I met her early this morning at the Kochi Central Park, where her parents gave us a ride to Kochi's main shopping center, Aeon. We talked about how our breaks were going and scurried to the movie theater to buy our tickets for Eragon. AFter we bought the tickets we did my favorite thing in the whole world. PRIKURA! As you can see from all the lovely shots on this page, we had an enjoyable time taking a million picturess, decorating them, and then fighting for who got to keep what. Next was lunch, and for those who know me well I'm going to give you a good laugh. Kaho wanted McDonalds. She got this enormous Big Mac, fries, and a Coke. Guess what this Gaijin got? HAHA. A salad. We kind of had to eat quickly (which is nearly impossible for a Japanese girl) because the movie was about to start. For 2 hours we watched the movie and then after did a little shopping. What did I learn? I have a bad fashion sense. Adn you want to know the worst part about it? I actually care! At home I lived to not get in on the fashion. Now I feel like an outcast without it. Oh dear god! After an awesomely exciting day, we took the bus back to Obiyamachi, where I got my bike and headed home. Fun stuff!

January 4, 2007- Crazy Masako and Me
CRAZY came from pictures of my sweet 16. If you look and see the ones of me and Masako, none of them make her look anything but crazy. Thus she was dubbed Crazy Masako and well, the name kind of stuck. After a week of cell emails, we finally arranged to meeto for lunch and karaoke of the 4th. So at 1, we met up in front of Tosajoshi. Then we headed out to lunch at Hirome market. We both got a plate of Takoyaki and then wrestled thru the crowds for a bench. During our lunch we talked about Masako's American adventure and why she's glad to be home. After our lunch, we got the mandatory PURIKURA! And as you can see, we had a fun time inside the little photo booth. AFter 2 sets of photos we headed to Karaoke. Of course we first had to go to like 3 places that were full to capacity until we found a place that the wait was only 20 minutes. Inside the room we started and for 2 hours sang our hearts out. Mostly American music. But I tried my first go at JPOP. It was much too fast for me but hey I still tried, right? When our 2 hours was sadly up, we paid (the enormous bill) and then left. On our bikes back we joked around and said goodbye. I love hanging out my friends!

Year of the Boar and How I Celebrated

December 31- January 3, 2007
So I just returned to my room, in which I haven't seen since last year. Sorry I only get once a year to make that stupid joke. Although I guess I'll be able to make it over the summer. Anyways, over the past two days I celebrated with a large extended Japanese family a very traditional Japanese holiday- probably the best of all Japanese holidays. New Year. 正月Shōgatsu. This year I didn't celebrate my welcoming of 2007 in Times Square, at a party with my friends in Verona, skiing in Vermont, on a couch watching the Twilight Zone or any other usual way I would have spent the night first day of the new year. Instead I celebrated in the middle of nowhere, Kochi-ken, Japan. Better known as, Shimanto-cho, which is surronded by the greenest of unspoiled mountains, cleanest gushing rivers, the coldest of nights, bright stars, curvy scarecely paved roads, hundreds of under mountain tunnels, long drives to just about anywhere, select pockets full of traditional houses full of Tatemi floors, and Nuclear families. And you know what? I wouldn't have it any other way to welcome in the Year of the Boar! 12/31/2006: At about 1:00 on December 31st of last year, my host mother herded Yohei and I into the car for the hour and a half drive to Shimanto-cho. I was really excited because I would get to see Eri, my host cousin, whom I haven't seen since the last day of school. Infact we would be staying at Eri's family's home. The drive wasn't too bad because my Ipod was full of new Jpop music, thanks to Yohei. We stopped at a Mos Burger, which is a Japanese fastfood place. I got a roast Shrimp burger. God, I love Japan. haha. Like all my drives thru Shikoku, my eyes remained on the surroundings. I try to think of something to compare it to in the United States. Like perhaps Vermont's beautiful green mountains, but then it doesn't snow on Shikoku. So I guess there really isn't anything to compare it to. I don't know any state where you can drive alongside gushing crystal clean rivers, green lush mountains, and a rugged coastline all within a 15 minute drive. Shikoku is really just that beautiful. When we arrived at what appeared to be a convenience store, we were welcomed by Eri's family. Eri is the oldest of 3. She has a little sister of 12 named Me, and a little brother of 11 called Hiro. Before we could even get settled, Yohei and I were pulled outside and into some crazy games. Some of these games I wish I had known when I was a little kid. I won't explain them to you. But I will tell you 5 minutes into the first one, Yohei nearly took out my leg and I was on my butt laughing within 3 seconds. After some more interesting games, Eri and I went inside and sat with the adults for a little while. The house is fairly new, directly behind the family convenience store. Like all Japanese houses, it was ice cold. I didn't take my jacket off that whole first day. They suggested we go watch a movie so next thing I know I was laying down on the Tatami floor, heaters blasting, watching Harry Potter with Eri. Soon dinner was served, which was probably about 3 cows worth of meat. Good meat, too. Japanese people generally like their meat so well done it's like a tire, but this one was red and bloody. Sorry for the gory details. But it did make me especially happy. I ate and ate, until I was too full to open my mouth. Then I watched Yohei kick Eri, Me, and Hiro's butts in Mario Kart on Nintendo Game cube. If I played it would have been to pathetic to write about. Back in the Tatemi floored room, Eri and I finished Harry Potter. Then we turned on some Japanese New Year shows. Their was a program on with a lot of good Jpop. Actually it has become a more recent custom to watch this music show "kohaku uta gassen", a highly popular television program featuring many of Japan's most famous J-pop singers in spectacular performances. By spectacular performance, I mean Justin Timberlake and Janet Jackson's wardrobe malfunction at the Super Bowl a couple years back was a Brady Bunch compared to what some of these Jpop performers, well performed. The most interesting was probably DJ Ozma's dancers finishing the song with tiny patches covering their privates, making Tarzan's loin cloth look like an Eskimo suit. Sometime later in the night, my host mom brought us in pudding and we all feasted. I asked her some personal questions about Japan and we ended up talking about alot of other stuff. The quote of the night goes to Mari-chan when we were talking about differences between old time Japanese people and old time gaijins. "Japanese ancestors looked like monkeys," she said in English. I nearly wet myself. At about 11:45, Eri's father, Mari-chan, Me, Yohei, Eri, and Hiro went to a Buddhist Shrine and rang a large gong to welcome in the new year. Omisoka is the name of the day of New Year’s Eve. Since the New Year is the biggest event in Japan, people celebrate the Eve as well. Japanese people stay up till midnight to listen to the 108 chimes of a nearby temple bell. The 108 chimes called Joya-no-kane, ring out the old year and rings in the New Year. It is supposed to release people from the 108 worldly sins. This year I got to go with my host family to a tiny old shrine on the side of a mountain and ring the gong for myself. I kind of messed up the second time around, but hey what do you expect from a gaijin? Afterwards we drove back to the house and talked in the kitchen for a little while. Mari-chan tried to explain the point of the animal new year. But it's kind of funny because she nor Eri's mother knew exactly why they celebrate it. They just kept saying that it came from China. So I was content with the knowledge that this is the year if the Boar, I was born in the year of the horse, and there are 12 different animals. For 14 hours I was in a different year that my friends and family at home. Crazy, right? I took a quick shower, which mind you sucks if you've gotten used to taking baths everynight, which I have. When it was time to sleep, Eri and I rock-paper-scissored for the bed or futon. I got the futon with is an extremely comfortable large cushion on the Tatemi floor. Best part is it was right below the heater. I got to admit I slept great that night. But before I nodded off, I thought about 2006. Pre-Japan: I brought home 2 marking periods of straight A's, started running and joined the track team, lost 30 pounds, started feeling good about myself, was selected to be a Rotary Youth Exchange Student, was given my third choice, Japan, which if you haven't figured out by now was probably the best thing that ever happened to me, had a going away party and felt like I was actually going to be missed contrary to what I originally thought. Then well, I came to Japan in 2006. I don't think I need to say more except that it was maybe the best decision I ever made. So looking ahead, I hope to god, 2007 is just as great if not better than 2006. 1/1/2007: Most Japanese households still observe rituals that go back as far as the Edo period of the 17th century. New Year's resolutions in Japan are made to bring prosperity and happiness for the future. Any unfinished business requires attention at the end of the year, so houses are cleaned, debts are paid, and foods are prepared prior to the New Year so the holiday can be enjoyed with leisure. Wearing new clothing, family members rise early on New Year's morning and visit the family shrine (okay so Eri and I slept till 11:00 AM...) Friends and family spend New Year's day visiting one another. The New Year is considered a time of forgiveness and cordiality to all. Japanese people don't go to work on New Year's Day. They rest and celebrate the holiday with the family. The first visit to the temple is called "Hatsu Mohde," which means the first visit. Unfortunately my host mother and her family can not visit a temple for "Hatsu Mohde" because of the tradition that a recent death in the family prohibits. At 102, Mari-chan's grandmother passed away on the 21st of December. Mari-chan's mother can not visit a temple for a whole year, while Mari-chan and her brother can't visit for 49 days. When she explained this to me I was amazed at such an incredible tradition. I am absolutely amazed by the Japanese religion. The majority of Japanese people refuse to admit they are religious and yet everyone follows the New Year's traditions of shrine visiting, as well as following loads more traditions. But then the average Japanese person will have a Christian style wedding and Buddhist funeral. Confused? I think not. I love this strange religion. The best word for it is that it's so nonbinding. So much freedom as long as you follow the very few traditions set in stone. I hope that makes some sort of sense. Anyway, on New Year's Day, the family starts the New Year with a "mochi" or rice cake breakfast. I hate Mochi, it sticks to your teeth and is just plain weird. Thus I didn't eat it. Rice pounding to make mochi rice cakes is a popular new year activity. However, many modern Japanese families buy them from supermarkets now. Eri and I woke up at around the same time and headed downstairs. We sat in the kitchen on the Tatemi floor (if you haven't figure out yet, the whole house is Tatemi flooring) a large old heater warmed us up as we watched some television. At around 12, Eri's father had Yohei, Hiro, Eri, and I take the dog for a long walk. The dog Badaa, is this enormous German Shepard and such a cute dog! It's Eri's job to walk him, but because she is so small, Badaa usually walks Eri. The day was grey wintery morning as we trekked on to the main road for a walk. Yohei and Hiro walked quickly ahead with Eri's father and Badaa, while Eri and I took our time. I of course couldn't keep my eyes of the surrondings. God I love Shikoku. It's just too beautiful a place to feel real. Just outside Eri's bront door is the almighty Shimato river, one of the last 3 rivers of Japan not to be spoiled by human reach. Our walk paralled the river, until we crossed a narrow bridge. On the other side of the river we walked thru alongside the forest on a narrow road next to mountains. In the distance smoke rose from a burning rice paddy. Eri's father gave me Badaa and I got to walk the enormous dog for a little while. Close to the way back home, we walked down to the riverside for rock skipping. Yohei beasted with a skip of like 12 times. I could barely get 3 or 4. We also took a group shot with my camera. Our back drop was the world scariest bridge, which is a very narrow slab of cement high sbove the river with no guard rails. I'm told that during Typhoon season the bridge usually gets washed away. Not suprising. We watched a daring driver attempt the bridge and I decided when I get my license and come back here I am going to beast that sucker. But by then it will porbably get washed away. haha. After we walked across it, we headed back for lunch. Lunch was a HUGE platter of sushi, leftover meat, and what I believe was Ozoni, a popular New Year's soup. Ozoni Soup supposedly has its' roots in that Samurai society cuisine. It is thought to be a meal that was cooked during field battles. It is also generally believed that this original meal, at first exclusive to samurai, eventually became a staple foodof the common people. Mostly it is served with Mochi, but thhat greatly differs regionally. Luckily Kochi region uses tofu instead. Not that I like Tofu any better than Mochi. The reason I tell you this is because I think it is very interesting part of Japan. Regional differences, that is. Each specific region has it's own customs, food specialities, religious festivities, many other differences. Japan is small but their are SOOOO many differences between areas that it gets hard to keep track. Anyway back to lunch. I ate a little bit of everything. Then Eri and I went back to watching a movie, Lord of the Rings in our nicely heated Tatemi room. On New Year's Day, Japanese people have a custom of giving pocket money to children. This is known as otoshidama (お年玉), which is a custom from China. It is handed out in small decorated envelopes called 'pochibukuro', descendants of the Chinese red packet. When eri's father handed me a little orange envelope, I had no idea what it was. So I smiled and said "thanks" but when I opened it and pulled out 10,000 yen (something like $100) I almost screamed. Then Mari-chan gave me another package from my current host father with 5,000 yen in it. I was kind of uncomfortbale taking this money and eventually addressed Mari-chan about it. So she explained the custom and now I'm a little richer and little more Japanese. *Smiles thinking about that new pair of jeans* At around 4, Mari-chan sprung on me the trip to the beach. Thus Eri's otosan, Mari-chan, Yohei, Hiro, and I headed to the beach. We took probably the most curvey road in the world, enough to give even the stringest of stomach a little jolt. After 40 minutes we drove along side of the ocean. Mari-chan at some point exclaimed, "Hey look there's America!" And somewhere beyond all of our eyesights my home country was celebrating 2007 at right about that time. I could have sworn to have heard Dick Clark as we arrived at the beach. The place looked vaguely familiar. Then I remembered... Back in August with the Masaki's, Naoko and I needed a bathroom stop. I encountered my first squat toilet at this very beach. Looking down at that sucker, I suddenly didn't have to pee anymore. Now I like Squatters better, as they are much cleaner. In the distance the faint sound of crashing waves comforted us as we walked to the beach. The others had no intention of doing what the stupid crazy gaijin did. Pulled off her shoes and socks and ran straight for the ocean... in below freezing weather... in January. Luckily for my feet, the water was warmer than the air and I ended up wading out into knee deep area of the wave protected channel. If anyone though I was crazy it was the 30 or so surfers out in the distance catching one of Kochi's most famous things, wicked waves. Hiro soon followed the crazy gaijin into the water and we were aplashing around and laughing. I gave my camera to Hiro's father and he took numerous pictures of us. But the greatest part about going to the ocean, anywhere in the world is just looking out at that horizon. Feeling so small. I could have stood there watching it for hours, but Mari-chan wrote my name in the sand and wanted a picture. Then I wrote in my best Japanese kanji Oono. Then I wrote 2007 and we all took a picture with the ocean as a back drop. Hiro and I continued to walk along the waves and I took dozens of pictures. But as the sun began to set, we decided to head back. We took longer than usual because we had to a car switch at Eri's mother's parents house. Back at the house it was just Mari-chan, Yohei, Obachan (Mari-chan's mother), and myself. Dinner was leftovers and stuff. Then I watched Yohei play his Game Cube for a while. Soon Eri's family returned to the house. All of the kids plus Mari-chan played card games for what felt like hours. I even taught them how to play PIGS, but I don't think they enjoyed it as much as American's do. Later in the kitchen, we split a pudding and studied Japanese for while. But bed was calling us and I curled up in my warm futon. First though I showed Eri my pictures, threw a pillow at Mari-chan, and joked with the famous "Goodo Nighto (Japanese intonation)" Eventually I fell asleep happy about the wonderful time I just had. 1/2/2007- I woke up at 11 again, but had to shake Eri awake. So at 11:30 we headed downstairs to be greeted by everyone. I talked with Eri's parents and we kindly made fun of their kid's names translated into English. Me is self-explanatory. Hiro as in Superman. And Eri (pronounced Eddie) is a boy's name is English. Poor Eri. At noon, in the pouring rain, Mari-chan brought Yohei, Hiro, and I to small chrine alongside the Shimanto. She places fruit and some other food inside and prayed. We headed back to the house and packed up the car. At 1, Eri's family and my host family headed into an actual town (of more than 100 people) and ate a huge lunch. Huge as in Steak for Eri and me. After lunch, we all said goodbye, and with Mari-chan and Yohei I returned to Kochi City. During the ride I ran into more Japanese mistakes. I told Mari-chan "You family is great!" She cracked up and said "Not my family, my brother's family." I explained in English family counts as cousins and nephews and aunts and all that stuff. I don't think she believed me. The ride home was very long because there is only one lane highway in Kochi and it was currently being blocked by an accident. And I had to pee. Not very pretty. But I survived and I nearly kissed the squatter toilet at a country convient store after I went. Relief! Back at home I received my lovely Nengajō and then took a rest. Looking back on the holiday I just spent with my host family's extended family in Shimanto-cho. Well the truth is, I loved every minute of it. It reminded me of when I was younger New Year celebrations in Main and Vermont with my extended family. I really can't acurately describe what an amazing time I had. It's not as though I felt apart of the family but I fwlt like more than a guest. More than a gaijin pretending to celebrate a traditional Japanese holiday. I don't know if this makes any sense. I just know I'll look back on this experience fondly as a learning experience about life itself. 1/3/2007- Celebrating the new year in Japan also means paying special attention to the "first" of something. People pay special attention to the first time something is done in the new year. Hatsuhinode (初日の出) is the first sunrise of the year. Hatsumoude (初詣) is the first trip to a Shinto shrine. Many people visit a shrine after midnight on January 1st or sometime during the day on January 1st, I went on January 3rd. If the weather is good, people often dress up or wear kimono. I was in jeans. My host mother could not go to a shrine because of the reason I described before, thus she had me go with her best friend. First we went to an Okonomiacki party then we trekked to a local shrine. Walking thru the Torii gates, we went for the fountain to cleanse our hands of ill will. We then placed 3 coins inside the Shrine, rang the gong 3 times, bowed twice, and prayed for a wish, then bowed once more. Afterwards we bought a paper that tells us when our wish will come true. My wish won't come true until it is too late apparenty. I know my description doesn't really give you a very good idea of the tradition. But I was very fortunate to be able to participate in such an ancient and powerful tradition. And that was my beginning of the Year of the Boar.

Host Family Hang Out's

December 29, 2006
I know I haven't revealed too much information about my current host family. I've been very busy with school and Koto and friends. So I'll do my best to fill you in right now. My current family, my second of four host families, are the Oono's. The family comprises of my host father, Otosan Oono, host mother, Mari-chan, and my 14 year old host brother, Yohei. During the school year my host cousin, 15 year old, Eri, also lives in my host house. But now that it is winter break, she is currently living in Shimanto-cho about an hour and half away from Kochi City with her parents and younger siblings. Okay, a little bit about my family. My host father is very busy, though I'm not totally sure what he does. My host mother is a housewife who has a part time job in her husbands office. They have one son, Yohei, a middle school second grader (epitomie of American 8th grader). Yohei goes to the best school in Kochi, because he is very smart. He is also a pretty good baseball player. He pitches and plays first base. Maybe one day he'll play for MLB. Like a normal Japanese students that play sports, Yohei's life is consumed by baseball. Everyday after school, until the late hours, even on Sundays! I actually don't think he has any free time. He also goes to Juku, or extra school. I only ever see him at the dinner table , come to think of it. Also like most Japanese boys his age, he is incredibly shy. At first he kind of preferred not to talk to me (probably because I made fun of his heavy Japanese accent while speaking English.) Now we get along pretty well. Like I mentioned before, my host father is very busy. My host mom, on the other hand, has a lot of free time. I often have long conversations with her in Japanglish. She is really a sweet lady, and I feel confortable enough telling her anything. As for my host cousin, Eri (prounounced like Eddie), I don't know what I would do without her. She is pretty odd, there is no doubt about that. But it's impossible to be bored with her antics. An example would be every morning when we ride our bikes to school. I get us there in 15 minutes, because I move at lightening speed. When Eri takes the lead, I usually have to run when I get to school not to be late. Christmas comes quicker then Eri. Nonetheless, she's a pretty interesting kid. My host house is located in the east of Kochi City. The house is a huge 3 story cube thing crammed in the middle of a quiet area. Very quiet. To the right is a garden. About a kilometer to the east, past the river, are plenty of rice fields. Anyway every morning I ride my bike to school with Eri. It usually takes me 15 minutes, but with Eri it could take 20 to 25 minutes. It's not difficult because we just take one of the main roads. So anyway on December the 29th at 5 o'clock my host mom decided to take Yohei and I on a whirlwind adventure. To say the least anyway. First we went bowling. Before we got a lane, Mari-chan and I took on hord of Zombies in one of those shooting games. Another thing to add to the lost of things I am bad at. Bowling--> I'm self-proclaimed terrible at bowling. But then I had never played with Yohei before. Mari-chan kicked our butts with an enormous final score. I lost the first game to Yohei, but then won with a much higher score by the end of the second game. By mid-game, everytime Mari-chan got a strike or spare, Yohei and I moaned loudly. Though the gutters are still probably cursing Yohei and Julie. After bowling we headed to Karaoke. My favorite thing to do. Funny, right? The great thing about doing Karakoe with people who don't speak English, is that you could suck to high holy heaven and they would still be impressed. It started with Yohei singing some crazy Aime song, then I sang "Help" from the Beatles. Yohei, who I will admit is a pretty good singer, reluctantly gave up the mike to me and Mari-chan when it was our turn. It's funny because I have the world's worst voice and yet I absolutely love when it's my turn to sing. I sang "My Happy Ending" Avril Lavigne, "Bad Day" Daniel Powter, "Wonderwall" Oasis, "Wherever, Whenever" Shakira, and "Toxic" Britney Spears. Yohei and Mari-chan sang Jpop. I tried to take a picture of Yohei but I thought he might rip my head off if I tried. Karaoke is totally awesome, and it seems I enjoy more and more every time I do it. When our 1 and 1/2 hour in our private room was up, we decided to get Okonomiacki. The last Okonomiacki of 2006. So all in all I had an amazingly awesome time with my host family. You don't meet too many exchange students who have loved their families as much I love the Masaki's and getting closer to loving the Oono's. Lucky? Probably.

Letter Home On The 5 Month Anniversary of Departure

January 15, 2007
Dear Family, Friends, and Whomever Else, It's an icy cold January day in Kochi, Japan. Thus there is nothing unusual about the weather, just January in Japan. It's been a long time since I have been able to write a journal or cultural observation. I've been so busy, and when I do have time I have to catch up on sleep. You wouldn't realize just how difficult going to school 6 days a week from 8 to 3 and then from 3:30 to 6 really is. But this is my life. The life I have choosen, in a brief editorial, of course. I've been in Japan for approximately 5 months, because I landed on August 16 in Narita, Tokyo. If you ask my mother, she will tell you these past 5 months have been eternity. She misses me, what else can I say. But as for me, these past 5 months have been the quickest and most exciting times of my life. If it is at all possible to fall in love with a country, or perhaps a lifestyle, then I am your proof of this. That's not to say that I love every little detail about Japan, because I most certainly don't. In fact there are some things that I despise beyond all belief. I have been settled in Japan for about 4 months and 2 weeks. That's right- it only took me about 2 weeks, or 14 days to learn to go with the flow rather than fight a system that you can't and never will change. Sure, there are times when I can't go with the flow, because it goes against everything I believe. But for the most part, I have been pretty flexible and open to everything. Thus, I'm welcome here, in a society that works and acts as a group, rather than my Western society, made up of individual actings. Society here is great in the respect that everyone works together, follows the rules, which leads to less crime and more safety, but honored above all are traditional and kindness. It causes alot of problems, but I won't go into that. I'd like to live in Japan for the rest of my life. It's true. I am fascinated and bewildered at Japan. I am welcome and happy here. But the fact is, there are just way too many forces acting against that of a foreigner here in Japan. The simple daily activities are never easy. And although I have conformed to nearly all of the Japanese rules, there are just some things that I will never be able to do. I can attribute this to my first 15 years of life and growing up in Western culture. Under a society where people think for themselves. That is my biggest problem. Ormaybe from a different perspective, it is my greatest strength. There is another problem, one that differs very greatly from the worry of what is against me in Japan. It's much more heavy than that. When the summer rolls in and it is time to return to America, will I be able to settle back into my old life? Living in Japan has given me a sense of security, there is no street crime, violence, unemployment, and any questioning of decisions made for you. It is also the lifestyle that I have grown accustomed to. The virtual every day sameness where change is incredibly rare and not particularly welcome. But then it's more than that, so much more that I couldn't even begin to acurately portray it. Last night, January 15th, approximately 5 months since I had seen my country, my town, my home, my family, and my life, I had a long talk with my host family. They were curious about my what my future plans concerning life were. To be honest, I was at a loss to tell them anything. It got me thinking, though, the choice of my future is mine alone to control. I can be anything I want as long as I set my mind to it. But there is something I don't exactly have a choice over; whether or not to return to Japan. Since the moment I landed here, met my host families, made new and wonderful friends, and built a life in here, I gave up that choice. I have a life here, people I can call family and friends. I don't know where I will be in 10 years. But I do know that my life and Japan have become forever entertwined together. It's not a questions of whether or not I will return, it's a question of when. When the time comes for me to leave this place, Kochi, Japan, my home away from home- I wonder who it will be the hardest for, Japan Julie or Western Julie. At the moment, I don't really want to know. Best Wishes, Julie Garner

Julie Garner the Musician

January 13, 2007
Did you do a doubletake at the headline? Did you crack up at the silly prospect of me, the world's most tone deaf uncoordinated human being playing an instrument? Well if so, keep laughing. I am Koto Player. And I'm proud to say it. The thing about the Koto is that I really really love it. It's hard to describe it. But I liken it to my love for running. I figure you can be really really bad at something but as long as you love it, then that's all that matters. As for my new musical interest, when my fingers, covered in the Tsume, touch those strings, it's like everything get's into place suddenly. Kind of like for that split second of playing, the world stops and listens in. I guess this doesn't make too much sense. So for the majority of you who have no idea what the heck a Koto is: The koto is a 13-stringed harp-like Japanese musical instrument, also likened to a zither. Unlike the western harp, it is laid horizontally. It consists of a long board of pawlonia wood, with the strings stretched tautly over moveable and removeable plastic bridges. The instrument is tuned by moving the bridges to the left and right. The performer (that me! haha) kneels on the floor at the far right end of the instrument and plays chiefly with the thumb, forefinger and middle finger of the right hand. On those fingers, the musician wears ivory picks. The lefthand is chiefly used to raise the pitch a semi- or a full tone by pressing down to the left of the bridges while playing with the right. So there you are. So how did I suddenly become a Koto player? Once upon a time, I joined the Tosajoshi Koto Club. I think it miust have been December. After Track finished in November, I asked my school teacher to help me select some traditional Japanese culture clubs. My only request was that they not meet everyday because I had such a hard time with track being everyday thus having no downtime whatsoever. First I joined the Tea Ceremony club. I had been taking lessons during school hours, and had found I was better than I expected. The club only meets once a week. So I asked my teacher for another suggestion. Thus he contacted a middle school teacher who talked to me about coming once a week to the Koto club. So I started in December, when on a Saturday afternoon, a group of friendly girls in my grade, who I'd never met, picked me up after class and had me eat lunch with them. It was followed by my first lesson, which accomplished very little. Everyone just stared at me and asked for my autograph and weird stuff like that. 2 weeks later, the girls came and found me again. This time I was given music, a borrowed old tight set of Tsume (Ivory picks for the thumb, pointer and middle finger. These are the main pieces one uses when playing the tough strongs of the Koto) and an actual school Koto. The music was a very difficult (for a beginner) piece of "Kurisumasu Medori". I chose 4 songs in the Medori, Jingle Bells, Joy to the World, White Christmas, and Silent Night and practicied. The next day I was asked to come back. But I was very hesitant to oblige. I didn't want them to think I should start coming on a daily basis. I couldn't let the lack of down time I had when I was on the Track team, return to plague me. But I returned the following day. And by the end of the second lesson, I was convinced I was the world's worst Koto player... and yet. I loved it. When I played the mistakes were more common, but when I hit the right note on the right section, everyone cheered and felt so good. It's more of a feeling of getting out there and doing something, accomplishing something so incredibly unique. Reading the Koto music is different that reading the music alphabet of treble clefts and bass tones. For one, the music is read from the rightside, one note, the next note is found directly underneath it. Also the note is just a number (the Chinese number system.) The number stands for the string you must pluck. Perhaps it sounds, easy? It's not! Your right hand does most of the work, but your left hand also is used to move the picks up and down the wood as well as hold down the strings for additional sound. But the main reason it's not easy is because you have to be quick, and you can't mess up. The concert is a small group of 3 to 8 Koto's. Very easy to pick up a mistake. When the Sempie, or club seniors asked me if I would be atending practice during winter break, I couldn't say no. But it was also because I really started to enjoy it. And from 10 in the morning till 4 in the afternoon, I spent my time getting lost in my music. To make it better the members of the Koto club, suddenly became less intimidated to talk to me. By mid-week I was now laughing and causing trouble with Chiake, Yuki, Yukimi, Casami, and Taco. WIth just 3 days we ate joked, laughed, ate, got in trouble, and now have more inside jokes than one can even imagine. By the end of the first week, I felt like I had been in the club with them since middle school (which is how long they have all been in the club together.) And then on the last day of the practices, the Koto teacher sprung a scary suprise onto me. On January 7th, I would be playing what I had learned in front of the whole Koto club with my new friends. Basically I would only have about 5 or 6 actual practices before my first big concert. Scary, right? But I wasn't too worried. The Koto club was given a 2 week hiatus for the holiday season. I thought it would be a wonderful school-free week filled with no oligations. And I was right. But I kept finding myself wanting to return to Koto practice. I kept cell emailing Chiake and Taco "I Miss You Guys and the Club!!!" So, 2 weeks later, I returned to the school for some more practice. And on the 7th of January, I crammed some additional learning in at 7 in the morning. Dedication? More like determination. I wish I could say I performed amazing. But alas, I'd be lying. I did terrible, because I got really nervous when a bunch of my teachers and friends also came to watch. During the song, Taco, who was sitting in front of me, had to keep turning around to show me where I was supposed to be playing. Jingle bells wasn't exactly jingling, White Christmas was more like brown Christmas, Joy to the World wasn't too bad, but I think I did pretty well during Silent Night. When I was done, instead of retreating to the corner like I normally would have done, I bowed and said "I did my best." It didn't matter how bad I did, because Chiake, Taco, and Yukime were suddenly wrapped on my arms saying "You were excellent!" "Don't worry, you only just started played!" "Everyone loved you!" And sure enough, the embarrassed feeling I had from messing up, was replaced by a feeling of warmth and gratitude for my wonderful new friends and skill. Afterwards we had a huge New Year's party. Everyone sat according to their grades and skills, but the teacher's still put me with my friends and classmates. I'm pretty sure the teachers know that I'm never going to be professional, but with how hard I'm trying and enjoying myself, I'm going to get better. That's why for the HUGE April concert, in which it is held at a private Concert center and only the best are allowed to perform, the teachers thought I should get a chance to play. So Me, Chiake, Taco, Yuki, Yukimi, Casami, and all of the other High school first year's will be playing "Sakura." I'm not scared at all. Because when the teacher told us about this, everyone got really excited including myself. Thus this week I attended Koto on Wednesday and Friday. But I think Friday was a very significant day for me. First off I mastered a certain form in which to play the song. I should now have no problems with Sakura. Second, I purchased my own set of Tsume. I had been borrowing the teacher's pair. Let's just say my American fingers are long and chubbier as opposed to the toothpick shrimpy fingers of my teacher's. So when the Tsume salesman arrived, I was first in line. I got fitted and it took a long time to find the perfect set. A white extremely uncomfortable taped leather pair. I immediately hated there uncomfortbale feeling, so I asked if she had a more comfortable pair. She smiled and laughed and pulled out a set of a thicker cushioned ring. It caused everyone to laugh except the other's who have matching black ones. Apprently the white ones are better for more advanced players, the black ones are for people who need to be comfortable. That's me. Now I have a gorgeous pair of comfy black leather. Plus they also aren't the awful Ivory, elephant trunk, but are thick deer antlers. And yes they were extremely expensive. But I used the money I got from my host family as a New Year's present. Plus I haven't spent too much money and this was something I really wanted.The thing about me purchasing the Tsume's was that I showed the teachers and my fellow club members that I am committed to the club. And it's true: I am committed to this club because I love it.

Strangest Country

January 20, 2007
Often when I write emails or talk to people back home, I refer to Japan as the "strangest country." I don't get much of a reaction to this statement, which is perfecty understandable. I don't think anyone I talk to has ever been brought up in the West and then lived in Japan for a significant amount of time. Thus no one will understand that statement. But since I will probably for the rest of my life, refer to Japan as the "strangest country" I want to give you a few of the many paradoxes that shadow life in Japan. The idea to write this seemingly editorial came on a cold December afternoon at lunch time. I was sitting with at the dinner table, chopsticks in hand, trying my very hardest to successfully get tiny slippery noodles from the ramen bowl in to my mouth. The task was not going well. Behind me the television blared, though I was focused on enclosing the tiny noodles into the chop sticks. Then I heard something that caught my interest, and I immediately wanted to watch what was on the television. I picked up my Ramen bowl, and standing up, walked into the living area. I'd seen my host family members do similiar things so I wasn't at all worried about being rude. Watching the television, I swooped into the bowl and scooped at some noodles and began eating, still standing. Apparently this action HORRIFIED my host family, who promptly yelled for me to sit down immediately. Back at the table, my host mother explained to me just how impolite standing while eating really is. She also made a note that eating in public was nearly just as bad. And then... well it all made sense. During my first 3 months while living with the Masaki's I would often buy a snack on the way from home from school. Then I would eat it on the walk thru the Obiyamachi mall/arcade. Now if your observant, you'll see that that is essentially a double whammy. People would stare at me, with pursed lips, and horrified eyes. I just assumed it was the classic Gaijin stare. Oh well, I made a cultural faux pas. It was not the first, and certainly not the last. You are probably wondering, why is that strange? Well, although it is incredibly unacceptable to stand while eating in public, there are things that are perfectly acceptable. And by 'things' I really mean to say some of the most disgusting stuff ever. It's not uncommon for Japanese men to take a nice little bathroom break and relieve themselves on the walls of buildings, ponds on parks, or other public places. Public displays of drunkeness are frowned upon, but not unacceptable. But my personal pet peeve, is that men it's acceptable and highly practiced for men to just cock up spit wad and fling it out. These social acceptances make me, and probably ever other foreigner for that matter, constantly baffled at the way things are. This country is truly fascinating and beyong words difficult to understand. If you have read some of my other experiences, you are fully aware what an onsen is. An onsen is a natural, mineral rich hot spring where Japanese go to soak away their aches and pains or just to get away and relax. Bathing at onsen is a centuries old tradition in Japan that shows no sign of abating, in fact, it is probably more popular than ever. Oh yeah and since it technically is considered a bath, one is completely naked and bathing with a various amount of people. Usually Onsen are strictly one sex, woman or men. But there are quite a few in existance that contain mixed bathing. Japanese people claim to be shy, reserved, and modest people. Yet I can fully attest to when it comes to onsen, the Japanese don't mind whipping off their clothes for bath time. The Japanese government is very concerned about 'promiscuity' within the country. In fact, it is the only 'modernized' country in the world that has firmly declared birth control to be 100% illegal. Only 4% of Japanese woman have ever used the pill and it was done illegally. And yet, abortion are legal as well as almost all other contraceptives. Japan is, though highly under reported, much more promiscuis than what appears on the surface. As shown with the major business that are the ever popular 'Love Hotels.' And yet, "fallen" woman can rarely find someone that will marry them. And this leads to divorced woman. Woman are the ones blamed when a marriage fails, because it is the womans job to make everything work. Thus divorced woman are often disowned from families. And then finding a suitable living arrangement is near impossible. Land lords will rarely rent out to divorced people. Despite all this, the Japanese are generally reserved people. It is against customs to speak when not spoken to, voice an opinion, or confront an issue. Yet it is culturally okay to steam shovel into the train and fight and tooth and nail for a seat. Personally, I think the Japanese education system is the greatest paradox of all. I have many thoughts concerning the system, but for now I will only talk about one in particular. Mere months after a baby is born, mothers enroll their children kindergarten and lately, pre-kindergartens that make promises are preparing the children for university. Think about it. A toddler school promising parents that they can insure success for the 5 year old to get into a good University. After years of hard work, when students make it to University, what do they do? Virtually nothing. Going to a better university just means a better job opportunity, even if you barely passed your major. Employers don't care about skill, the care about their future employees coming from a prestigious school. Put it like this. Mike went to Harvard, while John went to Montclair State. Mike nearly failed out, has an empty resume, and just doesn't seem interested at all. John graduated with all honors, has a resum e that makes Ghandi look like he sat on his butt, and shows an immense interest in working with the company. Oh the obvious choice is Mike. After all Mike went to Harvard! In 2006, Japan was the 14th richest country in the world. And guess what? The Japanese deserve it. They work more than any other people in the world. Plus the are kind, smart, and traditional. Yet, they have horrific living conditions. I don't mean sleeping on the floor to be horrific. What I do mean is that families in homes and apartments with no heating in the cruel fierce winters and no air in the scroching muggy summers. Homes are usually improperly built and rarely insulated. The typical salaryman works over 12 a day, eats, sleeps, and then wakes up and does it again. Even the lowest paid workers must pay the exorbinant prices that are here in Japan. The Japanese businessmen are perfectly content to work more and make less than their western counterparts. After all, they feel, Japanese are less adequate than Westerners. But then when you compare Japan to the rest of Asia. Well there really is no comparison, according to the usual Japanese person. Thus bigotry against Chinese, Koreans, and other other Asian counterparts is just the 'norm' here. According to most Japanese people, the country could do much better without them. These are just a few of the hundreds of crazy little paradoxes I run into on a daily basis. I hope I don't give you the impression of being an uptight American who won't adapt to these standards. Because if you think that, then you are truly wrong. I have adapted, I have accepted many of these simple little paradoxes. But sometimes things just stand out and bother me enough to write them down. Am I crazy? Probably. Is this country a little strange? Definitely.

Nihon Buyou and Me

January 28, 2007
So January 28th, 2007 marked a pretty interesting event in the course of my life. I had my first ever dance recital. This being said, I did ACTUALLY dance. As you may or may not know I am a member of the Tosajoshi Traditional Dance club. It wasn't my choice exactly to the club exactly, but after last sunday I am very glad to be a part of the club. The club meets ever Thursday from 3:40 to 5:00 in the front building, 4th floor, Calligraphy room. At sometime after the bell rings, after school cleaning and whatever else may be going on, the 6 members (5 now because Yuhko just graduated) head up to the room, usually at different times. In the room we set up by pushing the felt desks out of the way to form a mini stage. Then we all reach into the cabinet for our Yukatas. This is because every practice is like that of a recital, meaning we are dressed from head to toe in Traditional Japanese clothing. It takes a good long time to get the thing on. My Yukata is borrowed from the teacher. It is black with variously pale colored flowers. The Obi, or belt/sash type thing that holds everything together is bright pink with dragonflies. As I put on the Yukata, the 5 other member drift in and set up as well. The members are the club are all very nice. There is Yuhko, who just graduated, and always helps me put on my Yukata because I really can't do it without looking like a dunderhead, Yurie, last year's exchange student in New Jersey, Mana, my friend from the school exursion of whom I shared a bed with (and ended up on the floor), and Marina and Ayako, next's years exchange students to America. Basically Tosajoshi's entire involvement with Youth exchange are members of the club, this is because Rotary wants it's ambassadors to learn a traditional art to perfrom in front of host Rotary clubs. Anyway, sometime between all these arrivals, the lovely teacher strolls in donning her beautiful Yukata and scary face that clearly says 'mess with me and I you will pay.' Yukimi-Sensei, is probably one of my favorite teachers that I have had to encounter here in Japan. She is a famous professional dancer, who often takes her performances to the most famous stages of Kyoto. In Kochi, she is a local celebrity, probably because, although she does most of her shows all over the country, she calls Kochi her home and often returns. Another of her activities is that of a teacher, a highly expensive well sought out teacher of the old dancing. But she is an alumni of the renowned Tosajoshi All Girl School, and feels it her obligation to teach a few select students her trade. The teacher is quite mean looking, there is no point in trying to hide that little fact about her. However she is the warmest, most generous, and kind woman you willl ever encounter, if you can push aside the evil glares. And she absolutely adores her exchange student learner. Always giving me extra help, placing me in the middle, altering routines when I am incapable of performing the action (which happens quite often mind you.) When Yukimi-sensei walks thru the sliding door she greets us all warmly and then usually pushes Yuhko aside to help me with my Yukata, always muttering that I am going to have to learn to do this eventually. Which is true, but I personally think she likes putting on my Yukata. Afterwards she makes a few announcements and then ushers into the make shift stage where we practice. For the past few months, we have been practicing the song Sakura Sakura, which is the very traditional Japanese song that you will hear when you walk into a wanna-be Japanese restaurant. I have honestly been practicing very hard, even bringing the tape home to perfect it. And it has payed off. A few weeks ago, Yukime-sensei charged through the sliding doors like she was in the Running of the Bull Festival in Spain, her grin, as chilling as it was, was oddly making us all inquisitive. It was then that she announced her Kochi esteemed Dance recital and the fact that the Tosajoshi girls would have an act amongst all her other students. For the records, most of these students, we later learned, had been doing her lessons for years and were past the amateur level. And for those of you, who know me well enough, know that I have never danced in private let alone on a stage in front of old Japanese ladies, asthetics of the art of dancing, professional dancers, and basically just a whole bunch of people. I am truly about as coordinated as a someone with Parkinsons trying to draw the Horizon. It's true- I had nearly completed my training of Sakura Sakura, but still thinking about doing it in front of people! I thought of a million perfectly acceptable excuses on how to get out of the dance. But everytime I went to use them, I saw Yukimi-sensei's grin and how proud of me she was becoming. I couldn't bring myself to let her down. And that brings me to January 28, 2007. My alarm clock rung at exactly the time it was perscribed to. Damn. That would have been a god excuse to get out of this whole mess. I quickly scurried around the room for some clothes, camera, wallet, and makeup, threw it all in a bag and then hurried to get to the school. I was to meet up with Yuhko and Mana at 9:30, where we would walk to the Kochi Grand Hotel. After a quick breakfast, I met the girls and started the quick walk to the hotel. And when we arrived, a group of old ladies recognized us. "AH! There is the gaijin! She IS as cute as Yukimi-sensei claims! Look at those cheeks! What a cutie!" If I was in a country where the people are sane, or at least not so enthusiastic, I would probably be embarrassed beyond my wits. But this sort of thing happens everyday. So I smiled and introduced myself and allowed the ladies to haul Yuhko, Mana, and myself thru a hotel and into a medium sized, Tatemi covered floor, with Japanese Kimono items strewn all around. The dressing room. The ladies broke up into 3 groups for on of us girls (there was a fight over who would get to dress up the foreigner.) I recall hearing Mana remark that she felt so unloved. My group, 3 midget like old woman with pale grey hair, all dressed in pink and purple Yukatas, pointed to my Western style outfit and gestured for me to take it off. And so I did. And the next thing I knew, I was being wrapped in the underlayer of the Kimono. It takes at least 30 minutes to get a Kimono on, and mind you, that's pushing the minimum. And these 3o minutes are incredibly unfun for the thing being dressed up. After a few layers of under garments, the woman started the task of teaching me to forget what breathing feels like. They pulled another layer on me, so tight, I began to think that they wanted revenge for World War II. At one point, and all jokes aside, I really couldn't breathe. Thus with no breath I was unable to tell them to stop pulling, even though I wouldn't have been able to say that in Japanese anyway. I kind of just jumped around and attempted sign langauge, which merited a few more *cute* remarks until someone realized I was turning blue. I began to pity the Japanese woman of the olden days, wondering how they learned the secrets to not breathing for days at a time. The answer dawned on me rather quickly, though. As one lady led me into another room with a mirror, I saw myself donning a beautiful purple rainbow flowered Kimono. For how incredibly painful the process of putting the sucker on was, I seemed to forget about it instantly and instead got lost in the beauty of the Kimono. The Kimono, is one just one of those cultural things that holds the secrets and the mysterious of an entire peole all within a few stiches and patterns. It's impossible to really explain it until you see yourself in a new way, being clothed in a miracle. A miracle of new enlightenment. After the mirror encounter, I met up with Mana, sporting a black with tan sunflower Kimono, and Yuhko, bearing a black with pink Sakura Kimono. No point in denying that we looked stunning. The concert was about to start, but I insisted on one final practice. So with out new paper fans attached into the Obi, we trodded upstairs for one final practice. My stomach was uneasy and mind raced over what would hapen if I messed up. The dance was different, Yurie, Ayaka, and Marina had testing and couldn't attend till later. Plus another girl was assisting us in our dance. There was no chance of me backing out, and even if there was, the memory of Yukimi-sensei's face full of utmost pride when I finally completed a perfect number of Sakura Sakura, was etched into my mind. And though I was almost too nervous to get through the practice, I was surronded by Mana and Yuhko, 2 friends who had cheered for me, practiced with me, helped me out, and were just all around good friends who I couldn't let down. When our practice was done we headed downstairs and were as usual greeted warmly from Yukimi-sensei who had just arrived. She took one look at me and called me pure and utterly beautiful. Soon the first dance had begun. The performer, a 5 year-old little boy, was incredible! He twisted and flung his paper fans high into the hair and caused Yukimi-sensei to brag to one of the old ladies who had dressed Mana in Kimono. When he was finished, Yukimi-sensei, pulled aside Yuhko, Me, Mana, and the recently added performer to wish us good luck. She gave me an extra warm smile. With the curtian closed, we tiptoed on stage and hid behind a large prop. The curtain opened and I heard myself moan. Yuhko whispered from in front of me a final "Ganbatte!" (Hang in there, Good Luck medley) The song began and I found myself following Yuhko onto the open stage. The spot lights blared on the 4 dancers as we made our fans float through the air. Many spectators watched only only one of the dancers- the one who was not Japanese but performing a traditional dance to Japanese beloved music- and not doing to bad at all. To say I was perfect, would be a complete an utter lie. There were a few times when Mana and Yuhko's fans went rights, and Julie's fan went left. There was a point when I totally forgot to kneel down, allowing myself to be the only dancer standing. But other than these few minor and perfectly acceptable mistakes, I had done really really well. And when I peered over to where Yukimi-sensei was hovering, a smile with almost no hint of scariness appeared she waved, which I translated to be a double thumbs up. I did it. The song ended quickly and we scurried off stage. Mana and I joined the crowd t watch Yuhko give her final performance as a Tosajoshi student. And she was perfect. I clapped and cheered the loudest for her and she turned bright crimson as the curtain closed. Yukimi-sensei congratulated us and took some pictures with us until she had to scamper off for her next performer. The 3 Tosajoshi students headed upstairs for a brief lunch of sushi rice and waited for Yurie, Marina, and Ayaka to join us. Then we would be dancing to Sakura Sakura again with the whole club, minus Mana because she had to leave to take an English test at school. Yurie arrived first, followed by Marina and Ayaka. My good friend and teacher, Kitazoe-sensei arrived afterwards and forced us all to take dozens of pictures. After Yurie, Marina, and Ayaka ate a quick Sushi Rice lunch. They headed downstairs to be placed into Kimono. Yuhko and I watched as Marina and Ayaka went through the excruciating annoyance of learning not to breath. But in the end, they too, looked gorgeous. Before we went back on stage, Yurie's mother, Sae Hirosue arrived and took my camera for some nice shots of the performance. Yukimi-sensei scuttled back into the room to inform us to be ready. I was all set with my new confidence resting gently in my heart. Ayaka and Marina, on the other hand, we freaking out. When the curtain was pulled we tip toed back on stage. Yuhko and I said, synchronized and as if perfectly planned, "Ganbatte!" at Marina and Ayaka as the fretted predictably. And the song began. This time, I wasn't nervous but relaxed but probably the most important thing was I was not scared of messing up but scared of not enjoying myself. I smiled and even chuckled through the whole dance. I probably messed up a bit more than the first time, but I was enjoying myself. And when they danced ended, the applause was loud and comforting. We did it! And we did a good job, according to the huge grin and tears in Yukimi-sensei eyes. After scurrying off stage and back to the dressing room, I had some time to speak with Marina and Ayaka, the next generation of exchange students. We talked in Japanglish and truthfully I saw myself a year ago in their eyes. The same hunger for adventure but fear in leaving everything from behind. I told them whenever I miss home, I just look around at my new friends, wonderful host families, and amazing life as a Japanese person. It always works.

We're Not Alone

January 30, 2007
One of the most obvious things about Japan is that the vast majority of the people, are in fact Japanese. And now that I have enriched you with that fascinating and somewhat startling piece of knowledge, I'd like you to picture you something. I know I have used this example many time before, but I feel illustrates the life of a Non-Asian in Japan. Picture yourself sitting in a small classroom with 45 people. 45 heads of thick jet black hair that always extends medium lengthened. 45 pairs of chocolate eyes staring and learning from the board. And 45 people who have only ever been to one country, have knowledge of one culture thoroughly, and speak one language proficiently. That's not to say that everyone looks alike or acts in the same manner, because trust me, book covers never reveal little twists and subplots. But for me, someone who hails from the world's most diverse nation, the monotony of Japan is often troubling. Fortunately I am not alone, and never will be in this struggle. There are people currently here in Japan at this place and time doing essentially the same thing I am- savoring an incredible culture while all the while broadening my personal horizons. Meeting with these "others" as given me the kind of education no school anywhere in the world can even scratch the surface on. To start, I live in the middle of nowhere, Japan. To be exact, Kochi City, of the Kochi-ken on Shikoku Island, East Asia. There aren't many of us, and by us I mean gaijin, or foreigners. But there are a few that I see and am acquainted with. Perhaps my closest fellow gaijin is Mrs. Paula Fabian, fellow English teacher in the Tosajoshi middle school. She was born in Ohio, America, grew up in South Africa, and is a former exchange student to France. She has been in Japan for 20 long years, and thus she is familiar with all of Japan's highs and lows. She has mastered the life of a foreigner, and she offers me her worldy knowledge whenever I am in need. Another Tosajoshi teacher is American-born Mr. Craig Delaney, who currently calls Japan his home. But I couldn't possibly forgot Mr. Rajii, the Indian who owns a lovely little restaurant, in Hirome Marketplace. There is also a British woman that works in a Cram School in the main shopping area. I have visited her on many accounts and have always been welcomed with a warm greeting whenever I am in dire need of English. And then I look at the entire country of Japan. In Kagawa, my fellow accent bearing New Yorker buddy, Mary Elizabeth, is always there to share a joke with when the time is needed. We first met and landed in Japan together and have history of hilarious events. And though my Australian love has returned to her mother ship, Althea, was always there when I was having a slump and needed someone to talk to. But there are others. So many more that I couldn't name them all. People I meet when walking through the streets. We find each other because it's impossible not to notice something that stands out already. Would we be friends had we passed each other on the street in our own countries? Probably not. But life in Japan does things to normal everyday people, like makes them open their eyes and bow down to curiosity. Here in Japan, I am pleased to say, that despite politics, history, and culture, every single one of us gaijins, gets along in one way or another. And in the process we help each other out and teach other the true meaning of "when the going gets touch, the touch get going." On a cold autumn day, I yearned for nothing but true 100% Orange Juice, Mrs. Fabian bought me a large bottle the following day, I gave an Australian a piece of my favorite American Orbit gum, which she undoubtedly enjoyed, and I could never forget the generous donations of Mr. Raji of hefty portions of Curry and Potatoes on a cold winter day. Sure this may seem like silly little occurences to you, but they most certainly aren't. They are the people of the world helping one another. What have all of these people and events taught me? Well obvious things life the majority of Australians don't actually ride kangaroos to school, and not all Indians are vegetarians. But more importanly, that when times are downright rough, culture shock is troubling, and sanity is being questioned- that we all pull together- no matter where we come from or what we think. And while we all enjoy Japan for different reasons and at different times, we basically learn that to make the best of this country with far more hardships than the places we first called home. And you know what? We do it at far greater odds than Japanese people tend to give us credit for? Those very hardships are what bring us all together. Through these struggles, we've formed friendships that may very well last a lifetime.

A Language All It's Own

January 31, 2007
On a horribly humid and typhoon drenched August afternoon, I learned a very significant lesson and gained an enhanced view of the Japanese people as a whole. I had been wondering restlessly through an unfamiliar and rather strange city, unable to read anything, go any place of familiarity, or meet anyone I knew. I was also suffering from a really bad case of intense culture shock. Suddenly to make things even more dreary, the sky opened up and emptyed buckets of water onto the sizzling city of Kochi, Japan. I stood on a curb in the middle of the city, waiting for the crosswalk to change into blue. Even more differences to add to the shock! The lights is blue, not green! Anyway, my clothes were becoming drenched, when suddenly the rain ceased. Well the cloud above my head did, as I noticed puddles around me still gathering droplets. I shifted around to discover a middle-aged Japanese woman leaning over close and holding her maroon umbrella over me head. When the blue lights suddenly flashed, we walked in dry silence for a few blocks until I reached my destination. When I turned to thank her, she was already heading back to the point where we started out. In essence she walked about 4 or 5 blocks out of her way to make sure that I stayed dry until I reached my final destination. I called out thank you- "arigatou!"- which was a relief because that was probably the only word I knew at that point in my exchange. She just turned around and smiled. The lesson I learned, probably the one of the greatest in life's many mystery's is that of kindness. There is no doubt in my mind that this simple act of kindness in sharing an umbrella with a stranger is part of Japanese culture- often emphasizing that of politeness. And yet this kind of thing is not generally part of my culture. To me it is simply put, a random act of kindness. And kindness is truly a language of its own that crosses ethnic boundaries and tears down language barriers. You don't need to understand Japanese to understand when a Japanese person is opening their heart. Another one of these times was my first and probably only meeting with my second host father's parents. The meeting, for want of a better word, was an earlier celebration for the Japanese New Year. Otoosan Oono, my second host father's mother is a gregarious, loud, and extremely curious woman that kindly questioned on my activities at schools and my interests in Japanese culture. When she discovered my interest in the art of Japanese Traditional Tea Ceremony, she scurried off. When she returned she was tightly clutching a bright orange parcel. She handed it to me and I discovered it to be a hand-woven orange container that held a small paper fan, and 2 traditional napkins. All the items needed to perform a traditional Tea Ceremony properly. She clasped my hands shut and explained to me that she had made the parcel nearly 30 ago when she was young and able to participate in a ceremony. The parcel is very important to her and that it holds more memories then she could tell. But that she wanted me to have it more than anything else. And thus, I received a present that truly made me feel special. There is only one explanation for this, kindness. As the days, weeks, and months rolled by, I began to loss count of all the kind things that these wonderful people have done for me. My luggage trunk is full to the brim of little gifts from all across Japan, my tummy significantly heavier from all the food I've been asked to sample, and my life a little more enriched with the knowledge that kindness still exists in this world. Sure there are often language problems- but the way I see it is that good intentions, wherever and whenever they may be, never need to be supported by mere words. Only the heart. And boy is kindness contagious! I've applied what I learned so far and brightened a few peoples day myself. A crying little girl who I met on the street, is now the proud owner of a Mickey Mouse Disneyworld pin. Everyone in my entire class received Christmas gifts. But you know what else? A few weeks ago, during a rain storm, I sheilded a group of little kids who were soaking wet and then walked with them to make sure they stayed dry on their way to school. It was just the proper thing to do.

Sotsugyoshiki- Japanese Graduation

February 2, 2007
On February 2, 2007, the Tosajoshi Kokou Sanensee had their Sotsugyoki. In English that translates into Graduation. The American High School and the Japanese High School graduation don't have too many things in common, except one thing. It always ends in tears and the realization that a major step in ones life is truly finshed with. With school, every day was at least somewhat predictable. But now one has to deal with the real world. And the real world has other plans, even in Japan, a country that detests change. On February 1, 2007, the whole student body of Tosajoshi assembled in the auditorium for Sotsugyoshi practice. Japanese schools have to practice EVERYTHING before the actual event, which gets to be a bit monotonous. That's why the actual event commands sheer perfection. And that is also why practice is probably like life in a Prisoner of War camp. My homeroom class, Yano homu, assembled together and marched into the gym converted into an auditorium. The actual event would only be about 2 hours, but we had to practice for 4 or 5. And since it was only a practice, with no parents to impress, the school didn't feel the need to turn on the heating. Every single Tosajoshi girl froze, especially because the teachers marched around and enforced every single rule. It was really horrible. My class, normally one of the better classes, was nearly always in trouble with various teachers scouting the rows like hungry hawks. The 2 really shy girls in my class who were sitting and watching the practice following every rule and being all around good kids, suddenly found themselves being screamed at by some really strict teachers about hair being slightly past the required length. Their class room number was written down later to be used when phoning parents. For the first time in my life, I saw a teacher hit a student. A group of Chugakkou Sanensee were chuckling to a joke, when the teacher took her hand and slammed it down on the student's head. I was shocked but couldn't bring myself to do anything. My individual number is 44. The point of the number is so teachers don't have to remember names and instead just call out numbers and write test papers into gradebooks according to numbers. It's also used when getting order in classroom. 44 is last, so I sat in the very back with 43, Shiho, and 42, Tomoko, and tried very hard to be on my best behavior. It was hard because I was so cold and getting sicker by the minute while trying to be perfect. For a few brief moments I felt I questioned why I would put up with this. Finally when the day ended, I biked home and threw up from being so cold. The night before the actual Graduation, I prepared myself with the knowledge that there would probably be very little warmth. I set out 3 sets of undershirts, and I went against my own religion and bought a pair of tights. I also bought a huge package of those hand warmer things that instead stick to a part of your body covered in clothes. When I put them on, I placed to conveniently on my butt cheeks, shoulders, and backside. I took pride in preparation against the cold. But I counted and discovered I was breaking something like 20 school rules. But you know, my life is a bit more important. The Japanese love 3 things in life: rice, respect, and long boring ceremonies. Japanese graduations are all designed to make you cry uncontrollably. They make you want to stop time and stay in high school forever. Well, if your students that are graduating, that is. They're also designed to bore you beyond belief. I'm convinced that a Japanese graduation ceremony could bore someone who is already in a Coma. It's really that bad. The ceremony began with the playing of the Japanese national anthem. It's a short and beautiful song, and really perfect for the country of Japan. I'm always preaching that there is nothing better about Japan and nothing better about America, they are just different. But I come from America, where we have a national anthem that makes every single American gush with pride. I have to admit listening to the Japanese national anthem has made me that much more excited to be home singing my own. You just can't beat something like the "Star Spangled Banner." The band and chorus began singing a rousing rendition of "Halleluah" while the Sanensee trudged into the gym for the very last time as Tosajoshi students. I always thought that Halleluah was a Christmas song, but silly me, this is Japan after all. I watched as the Sanensee filed down the rows in a single line, tears already streaming out of some eye sockets. They played some funeral music while the graduates got their diplomas. All 308 names of the Sanensee class were called out, even though only a few select girls got to head onto the stage to collect the diplomas. These girls climbed the stairs, bowed to the principal, turned around, and usually howled in sadness. The funeral/graduation music did a good job making the girls of my grade either fall asleep or start causing a great deal trouble. The Nazi's, oops I mean teachers, were sitting on the other side of the gym so they couldn't do anything about it. They same group of girls who yesterday had been used as punching bags, were furiously trying to suppress their raging laughter. I would have been annoyed at them, but I was already half asleep. After the presentation of the diplomas, the principal, who I think is more of a figure head than an actual school administrator, got up and did the universal graduation speech. Then, some bigshot from the board of education gets up and gives a speech. Which is, even though I can't understand Japanese all that well, exactly the same as speech the principal just gave. One more bigshot speaks, I didn't know who he was or what relation he had to anything at Tosajoshi, as far as I could tell his only purpose was to drag the ceremony out and torture us students. Tosajoshi has a reputation for bringing in fabulous guest speakers. I'd never heard or seen this character, and by the sounds of the snores from around me, neither had my classmates. I wish I could tell you exactly what was said in the speeches, but I couldn't understand it for one, and I was almost constantly nodding in and out of slumber. I kind of felt bad about that, but I looked down the row and almost all my other classmates were snoring and drooling. They would get hell later for this. I on the other hand could easily play the, "I don't understand," card. Then one Sanenesee stood up and made her way to the stage, she is faces backwards with the mike about a foot above her. Shorty. And she began. The longest most weepy speech I have ever had to sleep through. It wouldn't have been as long as it was, if the girl sidn't have to take a breath every other word. She snorted and moaned so much, that I principal had to stop himself from rolling his eyes rudely. She went over all the Sanensee inside jokes, memories about teachers, and school trips. She sobbed about missing her friends, and being afraid to step out into the world without them. I wanted to go on an stage and tell her that it's not as hard as it seems. Instead, I listen and nodd in and out of sleep. The whole front of the auditorium is moaning in sadness, while the whole back is snoring. Quite an intersting combination if you ask me. She finished and trudged back to her seat to be hugged by all her bawling friends. Eventually one of the cheif Nazis, I mean teachers, commanded the remaining student body to stand up and sing their songs their prepared songs. The first and most glorious song to get everyone blubbering is the Tosajoshi school song. The band and the Choir lead the rest of the school as we sang out hearts out about the pride of attending Tosajoshi. Sanensee in the front of the auditorium are by this point not able to stand by themselves. They were all in each others arms wailing and moaning. The rest of us were trying our best to lip-sync the song without being noticed. Then for the finally, a Japanese rendition of the traditional New Years Anthem. The words in Japanese just talk about how studying is the only way to lead a good life. Very Japanese. To the words of the song, the Sanensee file out of the gym. They are literally tripping over themselves and moaning in agony of leaving. There were enough waterworks to sail a boat down. But then there was one girl, a tall chubby Japanese girl walking down the aisle with not a tear in her eye. Infact she wore an expression of pure excitement. For her, gradutation meant freedom. The Kokou Ichinensee (my grade) had to stay behind and clean the auditorium. I met up with my Koto friends and we stacked away chairs. EVentually it was time to return to the room where the various clubs were beginning to assemble. After we were dismissed, I walked to my bike and passed the Track team. They carried with them a huge bouquet of flowers and various prsents. I watched them as they presented them to a former Track member, a Sanensee who had just graduated. The group all began to cry and attemt a hug. And I realized something. American and Japanese schools sytems may not have much in common, but they do have a graduation, where the highest grade says a mournful goodbye to a big part of their life. It's always sad, with people crying and drowning in memories of things that have happened throughout all the years. It's hard to think that this huge part of life is suddenly going to cease. No more waking up everyday for school and friends and studying. It's all we have ever known. Now it's time to go on to the real world, which is a mystery. Those strong school walls have always protected us, but now those walls don't mean anything anymore. The real world is scary, nothing is for sure, and life is never easy. But when we can accept the things we can't change, we can make it in the real world. But for now, saying goodbye is the first and one of the harder lessons of the real world. Graduation is always sad, but the real world is unavoidable. We learn to say goodbye.

Setsubun

February 3, 2007
In Japan, Setsubun (節分) is the day before the beginning of each season. The name literally means "seasonal division", but today when using the word, people refer mostly to Febuary 3. This day is the day before spring is said to begin. In its association with the Lunar New Year, Spring Setsubun can be thought of (and indeed was previously thought of when Japan followed the Chinese New Year set in Febuary) as a sort of New Year's Eve activity. This activity is a special ritual that is said to cleanse away all the evil of the former year and drive away disease-bringing evil spirits for the year to come. It is not a national holiday, but everyone celebrates it. For many centuries, the people of Japan have been performing rituals with the purpose of chasing away evil spirits at the start of spring. Around the 13th century, it became a custom to drive away evil spirits by the strong smell of burning dried sardine heads, the smoke of burning wood and the noise of drums. While this custom is not popular anymore, a few people still decorate their house entrances with fish heads and holy tree leaves in order to deter evil spirits from entering. In modern days, the most commonly performed setsubun ritual is the throwing of roasted beans around one's house across the country. When throwing the beans, you are supposed to shout "Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!" ("Demons out, happiness in"). Afterwards you should pick up and eat the number of beans, which corresponds to your age. There are also a number of regional rituals. In Kochi, and probably the surronding prefectures, one is supposed to eat sushi wrapped in Nori sea weed while facing the North. I celebrated the holiday with the Oono family. It was alot of fun, especially when everytime I went to eat my Nori rice, I had to face North. Really you only need to do it once, so my host mom kept cracking up. On the whole, I think we got the demons out of the house. Maybe. And I say maybe, because I really think Oono Otosan thinks I'm a demon.

Orientation Weekend

February 10-11, 2007
At 7:oo, my alarm rang. I forgot to change it to 8:30. Er... Anyway, I quickly got dressed and did some last minute packing. And at 9:30, my host mom drive me to Kochi Station. I was ready for Rotary's multiple district orientation in Okayama! Yurie and I loaded the train and found our seats. 2 stops later, next year's exchange student, Marina Yamasaki and Ayaka Honda, boarded and greeted us warmly. The train ride was only 2 hours, and when we arrived at the station, we were all alone for a few minutes. Soon enough more Japanese students arrived, as well as one gaijin. We kind of just stared at each other wondering whether or not the other one spoke English. She turned out to be Amanda Hansen, from Tennessee, in Mitsui. A good friend suring Orientation weekend. Soon 2 French girls and a Swedish boy came through the gates. Later an Aussie called Bronwynn in Matsuyama met us at the station. A couple Rotarians greeted us and shuffled us onto a bus headed to the Seaside Hotel. Inside, I met up with Mem, from New York, who I went to Okinawa. Later another Aussie in Imabari, named Sarah, arrived. Before everybody could talk, the Orientation started. Everyone introduced themselves, including the exchange students. I kind of messed up because Mem made me laugh. But later we had to do a longer introduction speech. So far for all the speeches that I have had to do, I have been able to prepare. This one was my first off the top of the head. The Swedish boy went first. He has learned more English here in Japan, than he has Japanese. He sat down after a brief pidgeon Japanese speech. The main Rotarian asked who wanted to go next, and for the first shock of the day, I stood up and walked to the front of the room. "Minna-san Konnichiwa! Julie Garner desu. 16 desu. Watashi wa Tosajoshi no Ichinensee desu. Kochi-ken ni sunde imasu, demo American kara kimashita. Washi no kurabusu wa Koto to Sado to Nihon Buyou." (Basically, I'm Julie, I'm 16, I'm a Sophomore that lives in Kochi but came from America. My clubs are Japanese Harp, Tea Ceremony, and Dance.) The main Rotarian was shocked and told me my Japanese was very good, to which I responded "Chigaimasu!" (That's wrong!) He asked about my favorite foods and if I liked Japan. I responded in Japanese and then bowed and sat down. Yurie said it was very cute. Mem went next and after a few Japanese mistakes, the main Rotarian told her to just speak in English. Amanda, who like me and Mem, had just started studying Japanese, definitly had the best out of the 3 of us. The French girls had been studying the language 2 years prior so they did great. Bronwyn is currently in her second exchange to Japan, so her language was near perfect. And Sarah spoke English as well. I know I should feel really proud of myself for learning 2 alphabets and being able to speak enough to get around, but honestly I was upset. I've been studying pretty hard and I'm just not getting it fast enough. I love the language but it's soooo difficult. The Rotex, or former exchange students, did speeches for next years exchange students. Which was followed by next year's exchange students doing speeches. It was all very boring. After about 4 or 5 hours of just sitting there doing nothing. We got to go with the Rotex and plan some entertainment after dinner for the Outbounds, next years exchangers. It started to get a little groupey actually. The English speakers, French speakers, and Japanese speakers all clung together. But it was a great opportunity for 5 English speakers to become fast friends. Then after a long discussion on the culture and Me, Mem, and Amanda offering adive to Sarah and Bronwyn, who had only arrived 2 or 3 weeks ago, it was time to settle into our rooms. I was to share with Amanda and Mem. So we headed up and checked in to the rooms. And then we managed to be late for dinner with Bronwyn and Sarah. At dinner, we were all seperated at the table, but that didn't stop us from shouting across the table to talk. Dinner was about 10 courses of stuff. The best part was how many forks and knifes there were at each place mat. We all made some silly mistakes. I ended up eating my steak with a butter knife and a cake fork. After dinner was entertainment time. Not that we had actually prepared anything. But I did realize my true calling in acting! Mem and I pretended to be Japanese exchange students, while some Rotex pretended to be American exchange students. I really did play the part of Japanese exchange student very well. The quote of the skit, "Yeah in Japanese school we can sleep, what can you do?" After some more skits, Yurie, Naoko, last year to Oregon, and Me did a skit on Japanese jokes. Then, Amanda, Mem, and Me decided to teach the Outbounds some American dances. The 3 of us stood in the front of the room and did the Macarena, which Yurie had the music for, and then the Cha Cha Slide, which is hard to explain in Japanese. Then by popular request we taught the chicken dance. Honestly, to think, Julie Garner stealing the spot light. It's comical at best. After the entertainment, we headed back into the dining hall for midnight snack and about 2 hours of talking. It was back to the English Speakers Society. But really, we all sared some much information about how cultures and argued that the Statue of Liberty is really on the New Jersey side. haha. Think about 3 accents, Aussie, East Coast Fast talk, and slightly Southern, having discussions about Japanese school life compared to life at home. Always pretty interesting. Even when it was time to sleep, Me, Amanda, and Mem pulled an all-nighter and talked about intellectual things, which we haven't been able to do in 6 months. You don't realize that knowing a language fluently is not just about communicating, it's about expressing yourself and your feelings. I didn't even know I felt the way I did until I started talking. At 5, I caught about an hour and half worth of sleep, which didn't help very much. At 7:30, we met up with the Aussies for an interesting looking Western breakfast. Then checked out, put our belongings in a safe place, and boarded a bus bound for Kagawa's famous shrine, Kompira. The drive, about 40 minutes was filled with Karaoke. French girls sang in French, the Swedish boy sang "If Your Happy And You Know It" in Swedish, and Amanda, Mem, and Me sang "Proud to be an American." I have a terrible voice, but once the microphone came our way, we all sort of hogged it. The Aussies and us Americans also sang Butterfly, from DDR. I would have kept going, because I'm turning into an actress but the Rotex wanted to sing. Later we arrived in Kotohira, is a one-horse town known solely as the site of the Kompira Shrine, a large shrine complex in the north-western part of Shikoku island. Kagawa prefecture is famed for its Sanuki udon wheat noodles and you'll find no shortage of shops hawking them on the road and stairway to the shrine. Rotary had us all attend an Udon making school. So the first part of the excursion, we learned to roll dough, cover in flour, cut it up, and enjoy. After I had cut it all up, the teacher peered down at it and said, "Chotto Hen." Wonderful, he called my creation a little bit strange. We put our cut up Udon in little packages for later. Then the group headed into Kotohira and on our way to Kompira Shrine. Kompira (also Konpira) is the oldest and most revered of Shikoku's shrines. Until the Meiji Restoration, it was in fact (mostly) a Buddhist temple, but was turned into a Shinto shrine during the enforced segregation of the era. Formally known as Kotohira-gū (金刀比羅宮), nearly everybody calls its by the half-familiar, half-respectful name Kompira-san (金比羅さん) instead. And it is known as a guardian deity of the sea. With its park and forest, it is laid out on the slope of Mt. Zozu or Mt. Elephant's head over 521 meters high. True to it's name, it is located on a hill, and to get to the top in about 800 steps. The steps towards the bottom run through huge Omiyage shops with loud sales people and bright colors. I enjoyed the great excersize my leg were receiving in the climb, but Mem, Amanda, and Bronwyn kept moaning at the sight of new steps. haha. The Shrine was really packed with Japanese people. For the record, Japanese religious activities are really open to anyone, infact when I pray at the Shrines, usually, I am welcomed with open arms and encouraged greatly. But today was different. The 5 of us met alot of "Gaijin go home!" Lucky, we had each other and we all really ignored it. At the top of the Shrine, we were treated to looking out at the gorgeous Kagawa and Shikoku's finest green mountains. It was hard for me to head back, but lunch time was approaching rapidly. We retraced our steps down the mountain and back through the Omiyage filled streets to the Udon school. Back at the school, we got our Udon and split into groups of 3. The groups poured their noodle dough into a boiling pot of water and watched them cook. I apoligized to Amanda and a Rotarian for mixing my 'strange' noodles into theirs. When it was all done and cooked, we tried the noodles. Let's just say, I've never eaten more delicious noodles in my life. Even Amanda, who is like the Noodle Grand Master, was in heaven. Kagawa really does have amazing Udon. When lunch was over, the group went downstairs to buy Omiyage for friends and host family. I think it worth mentioning what I actually bought for my host family. Octopus. God, I love Japan.

The Art of Omiyage and Why I'm Lucky I Still Have Friends

February 5, 2007
Now that I am fully enlightened on the process of Omiyagi, I should be very thankful I still have friends. Before coming to Japan, I did a little bit of homework on Japanese customs so that I wouldn't make a complete and total fool of myself when I arrived. Manners and custom are an important part of many facets of Japanese life. The language, although basically quite simple to pronounce and speak, is made very difficult to master because of the codified layers of respect of humility that are used depending on who you are talking to. Working out exactly when to take off your shoes and don a pair of slippers, concentrating on not passing food from chopstick to chopstick and deciding when a particularly deep bow is appropriate was all well learned. I was ready. or so I thought. Miyagi, means, according to the Japanese to English dictionary, souvenir or present. While adding an O to make the term Omiyagi shows that the word is to be used respectfully. But let's not get ahead of ourself just yet, O is also added to other terms like chop sticks and parents and relatives. Anyway, it is a very important and highly practiced Japanese custom here amongst travelers. By travelers I mean, those who go on 3 week vacation to Europe as well as those who visit the beach 20 minutes away for a few hours. Basically when the people travel, they are to buy a present for thse that they left behind. Oh it seems very simple, doesn't it? You are probably thinking that it's exactly like gift giving at home. You know, when you go to Disney World you pick up some Mickey Mouse pens, hats, key chains, and other little chatchkeys for you immediate family and sometimes colleagues or classmates. But like everything else here in Japan, the process of gift giving, is different and challenging. Firstly, the gift is always a food or specialty dish from the place of visiting. To give you an example from America, traveling to Philadelphia and bringing back Cheesesteaks. Now that anybody in their right mind would do that though. In Japan, Omiyagi is all about sectional specialties. If you go to Kochi, you would buy Bonita shreds (which is this utterly repulsive shredded fish thing.) If you go to Hokkaido, you might come home with Royce Corn Chocolate, Chocolate Potato Chips, or Crab Cakes (think Betty Crocker mixed with crab shavings). And if you sightsee Okinawa, you may just bring home some tasty Goya (this unplatable vegetable with a salty twang,) Salt Crakers, or Sweet Potato Cakes. I'm not a big fan of this food giving thing, I'd much get my friends Mickey Mouse hats, rather than old bisquits in the attempted form of a Disney character. Secondly, you must take in to consideration the relationship with the person receiving the gift. Do they merit the large box Milk and Lavendar Cakes from Hokkaido for ¥1000? Or are they only worth you springing for the ¥400 box of Crab Leg cookies? Personally I have always ben a believer in the 'it's the thought that counts' philosophy but the rest of Japan doesn't seem to agree with that. Friendships have been ruined over the size of the box. Thirdly, finally, and most importantly, you have to pick the right Omiyagi. Often, when friends and colleagues have been alerted to the fact that you are going on a trip, tasty Omiyagi from the destination will suddenly work their way into conversations. No one is exactly sure how this happens, but it does. When I traveled to Okinawa on a trip, my lunch mates spent a whole period discussing what was more tasty: Goya flavored chips, Sweet Potato Cakes, and other wack-a-doodle Okinawan specialties that would make the average American sick to their stomach. Needless to say, I didn't by them anything, which brings me to why i should be thankful I still have friends and host families that like me. On the last days of my school excursion to Hokkaido, many of my classmates met a serious dilemma. Their suit cases, could no longer close properly. And if they could get them closed, you would probably be able to hear a lot of stuff getting crushed. My roommates pitched in for a box that could fit an American sized refrigerater. It was filled with hundreds of snack boxes painted in warm colors with pictures of Crabs, Corn, Chocolate, Cows, and Mountains, all of Hokkaido's specialities. The boxes were labeled Mom, Dad, Brother, Uncle, Neighbor on the left, Neighbor on the right, Dad's Boss, Dad's Boss's Sister's Personal Trainer's Bartender's Second Cousin, Udon Delivery Man, and so on and so forth. As for me, I watched as they handed over hundreds of thousands of Yen, just to ship the refrigerator, oh I mean Omiyagi, home. But I didn't leave empty-handed! I bought my at-the-time current host family a mini bag of Corn Chocolate. It was the ¥400 bag. I'm not sure how that one went over. Finally, after 4 months, 3 big trips, and many smaller ones, my friends spent an entire lunch period, rather than nonchantly hinting they'd like some Corn Chocolate, to explain this practice of Omiyagi. It's more or less an artform, actually. Then they marked there calandars for Febuary 13th, the day I return from Kurashiki, Okayama again. Oh how I'm tempted to get them nothing.

On Getting Lost

February 15, 2007
This week marks the 6 month point, in which I, Julie Garner, arrived in the Land of the Rising Sun. Those first few days were not easy. I struggled with a terrible bout of Culture Shock. And it was August, which made it hot and humid, and I was alone in a big foreign city. Having never been content with sitting at home when there is so much to do and see and explore, I spent the days seeking out the things that differentiated Kochi from Verona, New Jersey. And it was by no means an easy task. I had this thought that if strayed too far off the main roads, following unfamiliar signs, and people, that I would surely get lost, possibly to never be seen again. Japan is small- but not that small. Now 6 months later, I refrain from the main streets at all costs. Everyday is different on these streets, but there is nothing new, no secrets to unlock. Instead, I find myself taking the back alleys and the roads less traveled because that's where Japan's mysteries and secrets await to be discovered. When exploring Kochi today, I often allow myself to get lost. My minimal amount of Japanese and caring compassion of the Japanese people will never let me get lost enough to never be seen again. You see, when you take the roads less traveled, you see things, meet people, and absorb knowledge that you never would have encountered on the main roads. In Japan, no one will really bother you either, much to the disbelief of my family back home. Take my wondeful Pop-pop for instance, he loves me beyond all words, but all has a paranoia concerning my safety. When I first told him I was going to Japan, he pursed his lips firmly and stated that he was against the idea. My mother, seeing how upset that me, responded with, "Japan is alot safer than say, South Africa [my second country choice.]" My Pop was unmoved and simply stated, "I don't see what's wrong with Verona, New Jersey." And the answer is, nothing. Nothing is wrong with my hometown. But for me, these is no mystery to unlock or ways of getting lost. I know all the streets and the back grounds, everyone knows each other, and everything about each other. There are no secrets, no unusal happenings, everything is exactly the way it was the day before. And some would say that this is what makes life in Verona so desirable. I, on the other hand, am a cat who survived her first encounter with curiosity. And now wants more and more. Now that I mentioned it, I may as well tell you about that first encounter. Though, come to think about it, it may actually contradict everything I have been saying. Back in mid-September, I hopped on my host sisters bicycle with plans to explore. I decided to follow a new set of signs that had just seemed to appear out to Kochi Port. I'd never been there and didn't know the way except for the signs. But I pushed forward. And sure enough, somewhere along the way, I got hopelessly lost, and ended up in Nangoku City, Kochi City's eastern sister, also brand new and unfamiliar to me. After retracing my bike path, I discovered I was genuinely lost. Holding the handle bars tight enough to make my knuckles white, I rode around in circles, contemplating my next course of action. At a fork in the road, I had 4 options; right, left, straight, or turn around. I decided on straight, because that decision had often worked for me in the past. But almost as soon as I started pedaling off, out of nowhere, a bright blue car buckling out of the nearby driveway. I was struck before I could react. My bike toppled over me, and thus me with it. I landed on the pavement with my arms wide open. I lay there on the cold stiff street, the bike under my frozen body and pushing against my legs causing several cuts to form. Though I don't know what my face looked like, I imagine my expression was that of a kid seeing a ghost. My mouth open and my eyes stretched wide to the point of ache, displaying the obvious signs of shock. The car stopped instantly, and a miniscule balding Japanese man rushed out to my aid. he sprinted over to where I lay all the while calling to me in Japanese. He must have been briefly alarmed because I lay there frozen and not answering his calls of 'Are you okay?' When he peered down at me to see if I was alive, he encountered an even greater suprise than hitting a kid on a bike. Gaijin! He leaned onto his car for support as his knees buckled and his hand flung to his gasping mouth. And I watched him choke and struggle with the fact taht he had just killed a gaijin. And, for me, it was funny, no it was hilarious! Hilarious to the point of bursting out in a jolting, rip roaring, pain-searing, genuine laugh that could probably have been heard in America. You'd think the poor man would have shown some relief, after all, laughter is a sign of life last time I checked. Wrong. Now he was clutching on to his heart as the blood rushed away from his heart. If I wasn't so preoccupied with laughing, I might have suggested medical help. The guy was nearly having a heart attack. I think he thought the strange noise coming from my mouth was a form of last rites in a language he knew not how to speak or understand. After about a full minute of laughing over the entire event, I picked myself of the cement followed by my bike, which I noticed had sustained a small dent. I turned the bike around with the thought that straight was obviously the wrong way to go. Then I turned to man and said goodbye. I'm not sure that he heard me though, as he was still gasping for air and clutching his heart. The ironic thing about the whole situation, was that by turning my bike around, I found the way back home. It seems on proper that in Japan a car would have to hit me, for me to realize the right way home. Did I stop exploring after this lovely incident? Nope, not a bit. In fact, I think it prompted my curiosity to want more and more information about this place. The man who hit me was generally sorry. In America, I'd probably in the middle of an enormous lawsuit for causing 'personal suffering' to the driver. Now I go out of the way to meet the people and see the things that make 2 worlds different. Now the point is, one should never be worried about getting lost here in Japan. Because beyond everything, this is still Japan, where the worst that could happen is taking a nose dive down the stairs when your slippers don't fit, falling out of futon onto the hard cold floor, or getting hit by a car. And take my word for it, they really aren't that bad. Weekend With the Hirosue "Kazoku" August 30-31, 2007Yesterday Yurie and her mother, Sae-mama picked me up early to go to there home about one hour away for the night. We drove through alot of country as I tried to communicate with Yuries mother. She just smiled and told me she had a lot planned for me. Yuries second home, located above her father doctor practice is a small cozy little home in the country. The clinic, Strawberry Fields, named after the Beatles is a popular clinic for people with back problems as Yuries father is an orthopedic surgeon. We pulled up and were greeted by Yuries dogs and then I was taken for a grand tour. The clinic is pretty cute but very crowded and staffed with a bunch of high pitched nurses who had no idea what to say to me. Then we went up to the living quarters and the huge comfey guest room. My room had a large screen television and a brand new ginormous apple computer. I didnt get to see Yurie and her sisters room as it was a mess apparently. Sae-mama cooked us a meal and then we hung out at the house for a little while. Later we headed to the Jardin de Monet. In the most obscure random countryside of Kochi-ken Japan some dedicated citizens built a beautiful water lilly garden to resemble Monets painting. It was beautiful but the rain quickly messed that up. we did some shopping and then headed for the onsen. Onsen. I:m sure the majority of you have no idea what the onsen is. Basically the Japanese people love onsen because they are natural hot spring and very much like a spa. One cache: you are completely butt stark naked with a bunch of woman of all ages. And heres the best part... as Kochi is really the middle of know where people like to stare at the gaijin. At home in American I hate being naked so I hope you can imagine my shyness at the onsen. when we jumped in the water i found a nice rock to hide behind. But like everything else in the country, I quickly got into the swing of things and got used to it. It may seem a little weird but onsens aren:t actually bad. Not that I want to make going to them a habit...haha. Yuries father met up with us afterwards and we headed to a habachi steakhouse thingie. It was delicious if I do say so myself. As I was eating the rice and miso soup, Yutako Hirosue yelled at me as apparently I wasnt doing it right. So Yurie showed me the right way to switch off my chop sticks. Hey what can I say? Im trying. Back at the house Sae-mama showed me how to play her Hotoko. This fascinating instrument is used for that familiar song Sakura. Everytime you go into a Japanese restaurant you probably hear it. Then we all went to bed. Today I woke up and played Sakura again, this time from memory. Apprently Im getting very very good. Next we hung around for a while until heading back to Kochi city. There we met the Tosajoshi principal and Yurie sucked up a little bit. Afterwards we went to the mall to meet Yuki, Yuries little sister for lunch. For lunch I had pizza but was forced to try the weirdest thing I have ever seen in Japan so far. Yuki ordered pasta covered in Squid ink. When you eat it it turns your mouth black. So you can imagine the table of me, Yurie, Yuki, and Sae-mama with black mouths. Kinda crazy actually. From there we went to see a movie, all in Japanese and I was bored to death. When it was over my host parents, very worried about me ordered me home as I was kind of later than anticipated. I also found out my computer was broken beyond repair. So kind of a bad way to end a good day. Japanese Cultural Festival September 23, 2007 I am typing this update in a brief moment of free time, which is really hard to come by around here. Not that i am complaining, this weekend has been a blast. On November 3rd every year, Japan celebrates the National Holiday of Cultural Day. My school wanted to celebrate it early as our schedule for october is pretty busy. So on Saturday the entire student body of Tosajoshi Middle and High School had an enormous school cultural festival. It was awesome! Friday: I got to leave school early as my clubs weren't doing anything for the festival. So I had an entire free day. I was correct in saying Saturday: I got up bright and early, threw on my uniform, and headed to Tosajoshi for what was supposed to be one wicked day; the Cultural Festival. When I got there, the homerooms all got into line formations to check in. Afterwards, my teacher, Yano-sensei, wanted me to experience a morning Cultural Festival Bazaar. He brought me to the gym, where at 9 o clock the doors were opened to the public. Hundreds if not thousands of screaming Japanese woman came running in; Bargain Hunters. The gym, was lined with dish towels, toys, and other little chatchkeys at a low price. There were over 3500 items, and we were all sold out by 9;30. I was so amazed at this phenomenon, that I took a bunch of pictures of the woman ripping thru boxes in search of a good deal. I got to help hand out items as well. Afterwards, Masako Ichihara, who spent last year in California as an exchange student, picked me up. We planned on touring the entire building. At Tosajoshi, there are 3 main building, 1 side building, 1 courtyard (which looks like a prison ground), and 1 large gym. Each room was filled with a club that could basically do anything that they wanted. Masako and I first went to the Tea Ceremony Club. There we payed a small fee and got to watch a traditional tea ceremony in action. In my opinion, it is really interesting and strange at the same time. Its an elegant art form, where one basically places tea down and then drinks it. Masako was really bored so we left for the Folk Song Club. A huge blarring concert was a bit different than what we had had a Tea Ceremony, but it was a lot of fun. After we got lunch. My absolute favorite Japanese dish; Okonomiacki. The Basketball Club was making the Okonomiacki, so Shiho and her teammates greeted me to a kind OH MY GOD JULIE!!!!!!!! While Masako and I ate, the Tosajoshi Baton team, Cheer squad, and Marching Band put on shows. By this point the school was beginning to fill up with lot of people from all over Kochi. Many of these people have never seen me before, so I managed to draw alot of stares. But one good thing came from it. A parent of one of my students in the middle school came up to me and thanked me for helping his daughter. It made me feel really good to know that I helped someone. After lunch, Masako and I did some more touring of the festival. We stopped at the Middle School Haunted House where I was forced into holding Masakos hand. Chicken... I laughed thru the entire thing, even when someone grabbed me and shook me. It was funny! After a while, we toured everything and needed a little brake. On of my teachers saw me and decided to put us to work. So for an hour we had to help stuff envelopes. Finally Masako came to the rescue and made up some crazy excuse. So for the last hour of the festival, we ate a mini Parfait and Snowcone just enjoyed the crazy atmosphere. When it was all over, I quickly headed home to take a nap.

Curious Incident of the Overflowing Bath Tub

February 12, 2007
You know you have seen the movies and television shows, where the main characters suddenly find water at their feet flowing directly from the bathroom. They scurry back to realize that they have in fact, forgotten that their bath tub was filling up. What a mistake, only a real moron would do that! But have you ever heard an actual story, where a person has allowed a bath tub to overflow? Fear not, I shall now enlighten you to the incident one frantic gaijin encountered on a chilly Febuary evening, and will never forget. Because, when all is said and done, how could one forget letting a bathtub overflow? Ofuro, or bath, in Japan is one of those cultural things that would take me a long time to acurately and fully explain. But for now, I'll give you the basic information. Japanese people love their precious Ofuro, especially on those cold winter nights. The tubs are deep, allowing the whole body to be fuly immersed and thus warm. And they are highly advanced. The Ofuro in my current family has a little feature where you can turn on the water from the kitchen, and when it is finished it even alerts the kitchen dweller with a high pitched "JUNBI! (ready)" Our story begins, once upon a time, on a cold Febuary night at approximately 8PM JST. I was sitting in the Oono family living room reading a magazine (in English of course) about the former Japanese capital of Kyoto and making mental notes of places I wanted to visit during the upcoming visit from my Mother and Nana. My host cousin was glued to the television watching some pathetic program, when my host mom entered from the kitchen. (Translated from Japanese) "Okay, Bath is ready. Who's going first?" Eri was not going to give up her telesision show without a fight, and and after a fierce battle of the minds in Junken (Roch, Paper, Scissors) she dominated. I was first. I hurried upstairs to grab my pajamas. Then back downstairs, ready for the bath. My host mom was washing the shower room floor when I entered. "Julie, there isn't much water left, so I turned on the button for new water. When it's filled, just click this button, okay?" She pointed to the green button with the Kanji that looked like a beach umbrella, I nodded. Simple, enough. She turned and left as I quickly got undressed and turned on the shower. The rules of Ofuro dictate that prior to getting in the actual tub, you must wash you body off fully and clean you hair as to not dirty the water for the next person in the tub. When I was finished, I jumped into the water, leaned back and felt, for the first time all day, relaxed. The kind of relaxed that you feel just before your mind shuts off for deep sleep. A few minutes passed, and I noticed that the water had gone passed the usual point. Mind you, the usual point in so close to the edge that swishing sideways slightly, results in a loss of some water. 'I'd better shut it off, ' I thought as I reached for the little button. I bet you know where this is going. As I looked at the computer thing with the buttons, I realized that all of them contained a little Beach Umbrella looking Kanji. Oh no, was my first breath. The water was rising and so was the fear that any button I could push might result in World War 3. Yes- Japanese baths are REALLY that high-tech. I took a chance with pink button, the water stopped. I breathed a sigh of relief and happiness, until suddenly the water pump squirted water out of it so fast, that its contact point, my upper thigh, will never again feel in the same innocent way it did. I quickly clicked another button and the painful water pump halted for a brief moment until I heard a few clicks from underneath the plastic surface of the tub. And then water came flowing out, slightly slower, but at a burning temperature that only Darth Vader could have survived. I don't know exactly what my face looked like, but I imagine it contained an expression that translasted into 'Holy crap, I'm stuck in a bath tub, with a mind of it's own that far surpasses my own IQ, and it is slowly but surely overflowing with water, which is embarrassing and scary mixed into one.' I tempted fate yet again, and the next button I pushed started a conversation from the computer, loosely translated it said something along the lines of "Incorrect Button. Please press the button of the action that you wish the Ofuro to perform." Well gee, If I could read the damn button, I most certainly would. But thank you for your wonderfully useful advice! By now, the water had reached the brim and was starting to flow down the sides. I wasn't too worried because the bathroom had drains on the outer area of the tub. I'm sure the Ofuro maker thought about making these drains especially for the occasional Gaijin who couldn't figure out right from left on his computerized bathtub. After all, he must have been a smart guy with a lot of time on his hands to come up with a computerized bathtub. Still, overflowing the tub was not something I wanted my host family to know about. So I stared at the computer above the tub, thinking, 'what kind of an idiot mixes a computer with a bath tub.' The TV boomed in the other room with the dumbest show in the world. My answer came like laughter on the wind. I sat up straight and began the task of button pressing. My legs took a major beating from all the different water pumps, my mind at a total point of disbelief that so many features could come from a bath. And finally after about 100 different button attempts, at least a few galleons of over flowing water, this disheveled gaijin discovered the secrets of the Japanese tub. Feeling mighty proud of myself, I skipped out of the bathroom to be awaited by a booming laughter of my host family. The bathtub computer had in fact, broadcasted to the entire kitchen, my button pressing quagmire. And they seemed to think it was funny. It is kind of funny, now that I'm not frantically pressing random buttons. I wonder what stupid thing I'll have to encounter next.

Moving on a Sunday In All Of It's Newness

February 18, 2007
I was wide awake at 7AM on a Sunday morning. If you ask my body, that simple act of being awake so early is a crime against humanity. Sunday is the only day we Tosajoshi girls have off during the week. Usually I sleep till 10 or 11. But luckily, I had yesterday off, so my body was only considering calling a lawyer and not actually doing it. So why was I up this early? I had to finish packing. That day, Sunday, February 18th, I was to move to my third family, the Osaki's. To be honest, even though I really haven't had an easy 3 months with my current family, I was kind of dreading moving. It's just making my departure that much closer. I mean thinking that approximately 3 months ago I was still living with the Masakis. Where is time drifting off to? When I looked around my room, I couldn't help but chuckle. I came here with 2 large bags, a backpack, and a camera bag. Now 6 months later, I have 5 large (that's an understatement, more like gigantically enormous mega OoKi super heavy) bags, a back pack, and a camera bag. You know, though, I'm not too surprised about this. I'm sure you have been in a situation when you pack a bunch of suitcases for just a few brief days and someone says, "What are you packing for a year?" Well, yeah, actually... My room was a total disaster, but that's okay. That's totally understandable to my host family. I am, after all, an O blood type. I guess you'd have to be Japanese no undertstand the brilliance behind my newest and most wonderful excuse. The Japanese believe that your blood type determines you personality. A people are really straight laced, clean and orderly folk. I'm not sure about B. But O people have a tendency to create messes and be content with unorganization. I'm a pretty organized person when I want to be. But today, I was about to move into a new family that I know nothing about with 5 trillion pounds of luggage and a bit of a cold to top off all the madness. Yes- I was allowed to be unorganized regardless of my blood type. I opened my door at some point and Mari-chan, my host mom wandered in. She asked me to help her with the laundry, which I was happy to do. Then we returned to the madness of my soon-to-be former room and began to impossibly exhausting task of hauling the dangerously heavy luggage down 3 flights of stairs and into the van. Yohei, Me, and Mari took all the heavy stuff. Eri might have broken in half if she tried to pick up the heavier stuff. God forbid my host father actually helped. Ready to leave, I said goodbye to Eri and Yohei, who opted to stay behind. It wasn't all that hard. Mari-chan and I drive in a separate car than Otosan. The reason was because I had so much luggage that we needed two cars, but I really don't think that's the case. No matter though. The beginning of the ride with Mari-cahn she said, in all of the Japanese indirectness that she was sorry that we didn't do too much and that the Oono family is very "my pace." Last night she had come into my room and said the same thing only more direct. I honestly felt like she was telling me that they want nothing more to do with me. Japanese is a very indirect language so those very words didn't come out like that, but that is the way I felt. I was upset at first, but I realize that it is definitely for the best. We drove through the city and I began to worry at just how far the Osaki householf is from Tosajoshi, my school. To say I wasn't nervous would be a lie. Everyone over the past few months had been telling me that I would be taking the bus because it is so far. But I'm a bit of an excercise Nazi and I insisted on being able to take my bike. But as we drove and drove and drove, worry began to set in. Another thing that was bothering me dring that drive was my next host family. I had only met my next host mother and father once at a dinner back in December (See Rotary Events for full details.) I learned basic things about them. They had 4 kids, 3 cats, 2 grandparents living at the house. They are are a very active family. I think I made a pretty good impression. But I really don't know anything about them since they live so far away. We finally pulled up in front of the strangest looking house I'd ever soon. The front door was on the street and almost on top of the stairs to the second floor was this little shoebox looking post office. My next host parents were waiting outside with 2 older looking people, whom I assumed to the grandparents. 2 little girls ran in the streets in the background. The view of the family and the playing kids made me feel... not welcome, but in more of environment that I am used to. It reminded me so much of those summer days of Hide and Seek pn my street in Verona, Personette. It was a brief but nice feeling. Out of the car, Mari-chan greeted Osaki-san. They spoke about me briefly, about my likes and dislikes, and all that jazz. The little girls had locked themselves to their mother's hip and were staring at me in awe. Otosan Oono was talking to Osako Otosan and the older people. I stood there just looking around and trying to get a feel for the place that would be my home for 3 months. 5 minutes passed and Otosan Oono was in the car and staring his wife down trying to give her the hint. She made him come and say goodbye to me. But it was the coldest goodbye I have ever felt. People don't hug in Japan. But when Otosan Masaki said goodbye, he was fighting back tears. Otosan Oono and I shake hands and he quickly jumps into the car to leave. You know how you have one of those experiences where you can't stop thinking about the awkwardness and the coldness of what just happened. Well that was it for me. Even after he had driven away I stood there in total awe, not believing what had just happened. It was so cold. That's all I can describe it as. Mari-chan, who I know will miss having me around, said a slightly warmer goodbye. She had given me a hug a few nights ago and didn't want to hug me again-in public. This is Japan- you just don't do that. I watched them leave and the very little sadness I felt was replaced by a great hurting feeling. I know things don't work out perfectly, but I didn't realize I meant that little. I really don't think I did anything wrong except for maybe having a bit higher standards than most. I did, after all, have the greatest first host family ever. I'm going to try and make sense of everything that just happened with the Oono family, bear with me or skip down to the next paragraph. I moved in with them on November 19th, a day after my super sweet 16. It was hard to leave the Masaki's but I knew that and vowed to not have any expectations. It would be really hard for anyone to be as great as my first family. But every family is different and I planned on making things work at all costs. Within the first month, I loved my host mom. She was a sweet, kind, and attentive woman, who generally worried about me like I was one of the family. My host brother was pretty cool as well. Once I realized what a Japanese younger host brother was like, things went pretty smoothly. I had mixed feelings about my host cousin. The only way to put is that she is very strange. Not in a way that made her someone I couldn't live with, just in a way making things harder to get to know each other. But there was something, from the start, about my host father. He rarely ate dinner with his family, even though he was nearly always home, barely spoke to his wife, always stayed on a different floor, wouldn't speak to me unless it was really fast and when I was in trouble. To cope with the weirdness, for want of a better word, I reckoned it to being part of the culture. But Masaki Otosan was not like that. He yelled at me twice. Yelled. Each time I had been invited to go out with my frst host family for dinner or a movie. If they would be late, I would get driven home. If early enough, I'd just take my bike. No harm done. I won't get into the whole thing. It just wasn't a positive experience for me. Or perhaps it was. Would I change it? No. I stuck it out through all the hardships. The only problem was that I sort of shot myself in the foot in that to avoid the things that made me uncomfortbale I went into my room on the computer and didn't try to get involved with the family. My host mom was my saving grace, but I realized that for me it is hard to have respect for people who don't have respect for themselves. I've learned some important things in 3 months of my life spent with the Oono family. I won't go into it all, for it would take weeks and I still wouldn't even begin to explain what I have learned as an individual. But to sum it up, the first night with the Osaki's I watched as my host father put a blanket on his slumbering 7 year old daughter because he thought she was cold. I knew then I was going to be okay with this family. Back on topic, after my bags had been magically transported up 3 flights of stairs into a room that would be mine, the host parents ushered me into a large family living room. There all 4 kids, plus 2 host parents, 2 grandparents, and 3 kids were introduced to me. Hikari, 7, Maako, 11, and Kaho, 13, are my host sisters. While Yu, 15, is my host brother. My host parents told me to call them Otosan and Okasan, while the grandparents are Ojichan and Obachan. After a bit of an awkward moment, my host mom and grandmohter suggested I head up stairs to unpack. I went upstiars where I was showed an old fashined thin walled room with a bed styled like a crib. My room. My host mom and I began ripping open boxes and taking out some necessary stuff. Some of the stuff I felt weird letting her see. But I wasn't sure how to tel; her I could do it myself. She found a rice ball wrapper from Setsubun that I thought was cute, and tried to throw it out. I had to stop her, which was a bit embarrassing. Eventually she got the hint though and went downstairs. I was left in my new room. I realized something. I'm becoming so much like Japan, in that I don't like change. It's not as though I was sad to leave the 2nd family, it's just... well. I guess I forgot what packing your entire life into a few boxes and unpacking for just a few months was like. It's not easy at all. It's one of those things that I will just never be able to get used to no matter how hard I try. At about 12, I neaded for the first time all the way to the first floor. The main living area of the Osaki family is the kitchen area. It was there that I had my first meal with the family. Rice balls. I only ate 3. I have this incredibly weird habit of eating next to nothing on the first day with the new host family. You can ask 3 fammilies who have hosted me for proof. haha. Lunch was awkward, at best. I didn't speak and neither did anyone else. The littlest Osaki, Hikari, kept staring at me and smiling as she devoured like 10 rice balls one after another. AFter lunch, my host mom usggested Hikari and Maako take me for a brief tour around the surrounding vicinity. They took me to the Hooka Bento shop, the neighborhood Juku, the Hair Saloon (see ENgrish Encounters) and the shoebox post office. It took about 5 minutes and when we returned my host mom asked me if I wanted to attned Maako and Hikari's Synchronized Swimming. I've learned to do EVERYTHING that is offered to me. Like when we arrived at the party and my host mom asked me if I wanted to go with Hikari to Synchronized swimming on Wednesday. At home, I wouldn't be caught dead doing something like that, here, well I said something like, "Bring it on!" The part was really nice, but for me, very awkward. All the kids were Synchronized swimmers and knew each other really well. AFter a while of watching old swimming performances by myself, I met 2 of the most interesting 5 old girls in Kochi. Aki-chan and another little girl came up to me, plopped themselves on my lap and soon made it clear they had every intention to start a Julie Fan Club. At home, I was a pretty well-likedbaby sitter. Probably because I liked what I did, that is, hang out and play with little kids. But I haven't been around little kids in 6 months, and so this chance to play with 5 years old was awesome! Plus as soon as Hikari saw that I could communicate with the littler kids, she and began to bond with hand games and poking. By the end of the party, we were holding hands. With Aki, her friend, and Hikari, I taught them a classic game, "High! Low! Too slow! hahah" I spent well over an hour getting beasted by kids 1/3 my age at my own game. When the main Synchro teacher found out I would be attending the Wednesday practice, she wanted to come talk to me. She spoked very funny English, but with my Japanese and her English, we communicated the harder aspects of both languages. She asked me if I knew how to swim. Well... duh. Then she asked me if I had a bathing suit. I said I did but probably couldn't wear it. We both were thinking very different reasons on why I couldn't wear it. She looked me up and down and said in Japanese, "you are VERY skinny, don't worry." Why do all Japanese think of gaijin as fat? ER! I shook my head and said, "The bathing suit is a bikini." Every mother of a swimmer in the Kochi Shyncro has a joke now. It's about the gaijin in a bikini. I'll never understand a country that is perfectly okay with onsen bathing can have a problem with bikini's. But then, how many times am I going to have to say it for it to finally make sense. That's Japan for you. As the party was coming to a close, the girls all formed a huge group to take a picture. I walked to the side, not wanting to get in the picture of the only Shyncro club. "Don't be silly! Get in this picture, Julie!" And so that's how one random gaijin ended up in a picture with mega muscley swimming dnace fiends. The Kochi Shyncro girls. After the swimmiers left for Karaoke, Hikari and me stayed alone and watched television with the mothers. They all seemed to get a kick out of the fact that I love Coffee, Not sure why though. When it was all over with, my host mom, Hikari and I, holding hands, headed down to the lobby to be picked up by my new host father. About 15 minutes later, and a few less awkward moments, this time because my host mom and I had a little conversation about Shincro, we were picked up. Otosan Osaki, Kaho, and Yu were already spread throughout the army sized van. We packed in like Sardines, and started to drive to a restaurant called Torii Ben. The restaurant had these random giant eggs in front. Inside the restaurant, Obachan and Ojichan were already deated with my host Obasan (Aunt) and new host cousin. I took an immediate liking to her. She was funny and sweet and really very kind, plus she actually talked to me. Soon dinner was on it's way. Torii means chicken and we eventually were served up to 10 different servings of chicken. I felt very awkward at first just reaching over the table to grab a piece of chicken, in fact I missed the majority of the servings because of my shyness to do it. But eventually I realized that if I wanted to eat in a big family, I had to get things my self. I'm pretty sure that same goes for talking but I have yet to test that theory. After 10 rounds, Maako returned from Karaoke and slowly, in all her Japanese characteristics, ate every tiny piece of chicken and made us wait another hour. The meal total $300. I was shocked and horrofied at the huge price for chicken. But then I realized that there were 11 people. This whole big family situation is really throwing me off. WHen we made it home, the kids were dropped off while the adults parked the car in the parking space across the main road. Hikari and walked hand in hand back up to the house. I hope things stay the same with us. She is really cute and I'm really enjoying being around little kids again. Sometimes you don't realize how much you miss things until you are given a different version of it. Hikari reminds me so much of the little balls of energy I get to play with alot at home. Inside, I sat with the family in the living area/Kitchen watching TV and absrobing the Osaki lifestyle. Everyone took orderly and planned quick bath times. That included me. After I brished my hair I returned to the family room, something I never did with the Oono's. I decided I wanted to become as involved in this family as purely possible. I'm going to put 120% in getting everything to work out. Maybe an additional 20% will do the trick. At around 11, we all went to bed. Poor Hikari was sick. I went to bed thinking that even though some things were a little awkward, things in this family are definitely going to work out. I felt for the first time all week, really really happy.

Osouji

February 17, 2007
I'm writing this observation, later to be typed for my website, with bloody fingertips, blackish/green finger nails, an aching back, and a strong hatred for one of Japan's famous school customs. Why? Well, because of Osouji, or cleaning. A brief description would be at the end of the academic day, students are required to participate in the cleaning of the school. They sweep the classrooms and the hallways, empty trash cans, clean restrooms, clean chalkboards and chalk erasers, and pick up trash from the school grounds. Japanese schools stress a strong social code of cooperation with each other. Often Asian countries with deep roots in the religion of Buddhism have these cleaning requirement codes. This code is called "wa", which means harmony. One of the ways students show this is with the classroom clean up time. It's for the purpose of not only creating good learning environment and atmosphere by themselves, but also for students appreciating the value of work and public mind. And thus everyday, after the school bell rings, a select group of students heads to pre-assigned destination with a teacher supervisor and cleans. In my homeroom, Yano-homu, there are 6 groups of 7 or 8 students. The homeroom also has the duty to clean 3 pre-assigned rooms, the Kitchen, Yano-sensei's room, and the Toilets. Each week one group takes a room, cleans, and then the following week receives a break. Often though, many school require everyone to clean, sometimes even during the lunch break. My first experience with Osouji came about on September 4, 2006. My brand new classmates formed a small circle around me and announced I was to be in their cleaning group. I followed them to the first floor Kitchen, was handed a mop and towel, and told to enjoy. I think my clueless look might have given something away. I had heard about Japanese schools doing cleaning, but I guess I didn't actually think I would have to do it. Soon, some girls set me up, and I became a scrubbing beast. The Kitchen was easy to clean. I figured all of the cleaning tasks would be that quick and simple. Wrong. Yano-sensei's room is easy to clean, but it takes a very long time. And then there is the toilets. Now at home, I'm not exactly a fairy princess that never picks up her garbage and has a maid and what not. But honestly, I've never touched one of those foul grimmy toilet brush scrubbers. So you can imagine my repulsiveness towards the teacher when she smiled and handed the abhorrent malodor of a brush. It probably would have been okay cleaning just a regular toilet bowl, because I could flush and then scrub into the gushing water. But no, Tosajoshi uses squat toilets. So when I flushed with the brush toward the back of the toilet the thing squirted at me and soaked my school skirt. Gradually the girls took less pity on the brand new clueless exchange student. And after we did rounds on all of the rooms, I suddenly received a new job. Prior to my arrival, they would all do Rock, Paper, Scissors to determine who would have to walk thru the entire school with the reeking bag and bring it to the school dump area. Suddenly, when I got used to everything it seemed only right for them to pass the ghastly job onto me. They knew I wouldn't argue because I really can't. As an exchange student, and person who has been immersed and enlightened on the school systems and customs of two countries, I see the pros and cons of the Osoji concept. It's good in that it really gives students more of an opportunity to get involved in school life. Most kids have clubs and sports after the bell rings, but some do not and really just go home. With cleaning they are given more time at the school and more time with their classmates and friends, thus forming a sort of 'loyalty.' When asked about why the concept works, teachers always reply that it gives the students more of an incentive to keep their school cleaning. Think about it for a moment. You wouldn't throw your gum wrapper on the ground if you knew that it would cause cleaning to prolong itself much more after school hours. And when it is not your cleaning duty, you still wouldn't throw your garbage on the floor because then it would prolong your friends cleaning duties. And it's just not right. Plus having all the students plus their teachers take a part of the school is much cheaper than hiring a janitor. Getting rid of the concept would be like doing away with a huge cultural impact, school cleaning has been around since most of these schools were even formed. After all, Japan, a nation with deep Buddhist roots, has always enjoyed knowledge of Wa, and how cleaning makes people appreciate the value of work. Though cleaning may sound like a great idea, it probably would be if it worked fully. The main problem comes down to the fact that some teachers aren't strict at all, allowing cleaning to really just be a joke. For example, the Kitchen cleaning duty has the teachers giving her students some towels with the assignmet of scrubbing down the table tops. Then the teacher leaves, and the girls barely wipe down the tables with dry towels essentially doing nothing. There are many cleaning duties that have these problems, making many classrooms realtively dirty. The other main problem is that when it is the students break from cleaning, they don't generally care about retaining their garbage and not causing messes. 'Since I don't have to sweep the floors after school today, I may as well sprinkle the paper on the floor to get it out of my way.' It always goes against the teachers argument. So why are my finger blackish/green and bleeding from cleaning? Since the Senior students graduated from high school last week, all the homerooms have had to take up one extra room. My group got assigned the most putrid wretched room in the whole school, the Chemistry Room. The teacher didn't mind when the Senior students relaxed in their cleaning, which they obviously did because the room looks like it hasn't been cleaned since the school's founding in 1904. But he was VERY strict with the junior students cleaning. We ended up spending well over an hour and a half scrubbing every inch of the room. Most of the girls had to wash the floor on their hands and knees, while the teacher heckled them. I, however, had bend over and scrub the lime from a couple sink faucets, with a tiny sponge that ultimately made my fingernails do most of the work. The teacher yelled at me every time he felt I was doing it proficient enough, which it seems I was never doing it proficient enough. Though in the end, I scrubbed those babies till they squeeled. Anyway, I hate cleaning. I think I always will after this traumatic experience. Kochi Sightseeing With the Masaki's August 26-27, 2007 So I live in Kochi city but on Shikoku there are 4 main prefectures (or states.) I live in Kochi prefecture and until this weekend did not realize just how amazing of a place it really is. I woke up on Saturday morning with plans of laying around and doing nothing. I had a brief Japanese lesson with my host father, but he had to get to work so he couldn't stick around long. At noon Naoko woke up, with plans to take me to the Ryuugado caves. So we packed up and headed the 40 minutes to the Ryuugado caves just outside the city. They are a truly maginificent work of 15 billion years. Basically you walk up a mile thru these ancient cave shafts that contain thousands of bats and dripping water. I got soaked and for the first time since I've arrived I felt cold! The caves were home to ancient Japanese people as well. We could only spend a little time at the caves as apparently we were going on a vacation along the Kochi-ken coast. Back at home I threw a bunch of stuff in to a back pack and headed out for our first stop: Shimanto City. The city is where the huge firework festival we were attending was. It is about 2 and 1/2 hours away from Kochi City through lush wide open beautiful mountain side. I have probably never seen so much beauty in my life. It was like driving thru Colorado and Vermont but right next to a crystal clear Carribean ocean. The drive took us through these mountains, along clear gurgling rivers, burning rice fields, wild flower fields. There are many places in Japan, and most are nothing like Kochi. Most are more high tech, crowded, and less unspoiled. And though Kochi is a bit boring, driving through the mountains along the coast, I realize there is no place that I would rather be than here right now. We arrived a little late as the fireworks have already started. Let's just say that if American firework shows steal some ideas from the Japanese, then in a couple years we are going to have some wicked shows. But although the fireworks are impressive, I think listening to the sound effects made by the viewers are more funny. For instance, my host father almost choked laughing so hard at a loud boomer. These people really like to make a lot of noise over the fireworks and it is kind of cute. Afterwards we walked along the city for a little while and grabbed dinner at an "Italian" restaurant. After dinner, we continued to walk until we went back to check into the hotel. I got my own room which was good because it was small. Small meaning I smacked my head on the shallow room at least 3 or 4 times during the night. In the morning we got out early to explore the Dragonfly Park in Shimanto City. Actually there weren't many dragonflys at all. So we went to breakfast and from there took a half an hour drive to the Tatsukushi Coast. From the moment we pulled up to this small paradise I loved it. The water was crystal clear and beach had no one in sight. Out in the distance the strange architextural underwater viewing station floated and boats came in and out of the shallow bay. My host family decided to take a nice ride on the glass bottom boat that would lead us out into strange rock formation island. The boat ride was very cool but it was a little hard for me to fit as my legs were too long to squeeze into the seat. But when we arrived I was suprised at how cool the rocks actually were. Old and out of the way, the island never gets many tourists but it is very fascinating how truly beautiful the area really is. I've heard the popular quote, "go not where the path leads but take the less beaten path." I can honestly say that the Tatsukushi Coast is definitely that less traveled path. Back on the main island we realized we had to head out and hit the Ashizuri Coast, which is the Southernmost point of Kochi-ken. The thing about Kochi is that there are too many mountains to make a straight road so they created these annoying curvy roads up and down the sides of the mountains. The Ashizuri Coast is a giant cliff that looks out onto the rocky shores of the Pacific Ocean. After the longest and most painful curvy road ever, we arrived. We hiked thru a small forest to the old lighthouse that looked out and took some pictures. Then we hiked back to another point that looked out and saw everything. It was so beautiful, one can't acurately describe it. We couldn't stay long, as we headed out for Ohru Beach. After another long curvy road, we arrived and hiked another mile into the woods. I think that the woods here should be considered rain forests. The Beach, practically empty except for a few locals and American surfers, was paradise. I have never been to a more beautiful beach in my life. The water was so clear, that we could wade out half a mile and still see the bottom. The water was extremely shallow and the surf was perfect, so Naoko, Otosan, and myself headed out into the water for a nice long swim. It was so nice and warm and clean and like nothing I could really truly tell you about. The waves were small and tide was perfect for gentle wadding. I layed on my back floating and staring up at the perfectly blue sky. Naoko and Otosan laughed while splashing in the waves. It was a truly perfect summer moment. Sadly, though, we had to leave and make the trip back into Kochi city.

Week in the Life of a Ko Ichinensee: Just Another Manic Monday

February 19, 2007
On Monday morning, I woke up at exactly 6:45 to the sound of my annoying jingling of the cellphone alarm. I was so tired because the weekend, involved one full day of rest, which found me not resting and instead packing all my items into hundreds of suit cases and hauling them to the other side of Kochi City. Yes I moved- switched families- from the Oono's to the Osaki's. Every morning I straighten my hair, jump into to my Tosajoshi school uniform, which resembles a sailor suit, brush my teeth, scuttle through my belongings, and throw the necessities into a school bag. The end result always finds me half asleep, with straight hair, that never stays straight for more than an hour, carrying a heavy bag. This was my first morning in the Osaki household, so I wanted to make a semi-decent impression. After climbing down the 3 flights of stairs into the first floor kitchen, I was warmly greeted with "Ohayou" (G'Morning!) from my host mom and 2 younger host sisters, Maako and Hakari. I sat down at the bar shaped kicthen table, overflowing with papers and proof of the fact that Osaki's have 4 children. My host mom gave me my daily cup of coffee in a mug because I am addicted to coffee. Soon my host brother Yu and my other host sister Kaho entered the kitchen. Everyone ate breakfast, except for me because I never eat breakfast. It's weird but eating so early makes me kind of sick. Then everyone changed into their school uniforms or regular street clothes. Elementary school children don't have to wear school uniforms, but they all wear these little leather back packs that seem to point out the fact that they are elementary school kids. At 7:50, my host mom told me that it is time to go. She was driving me because I had left my bike at the school last friday, thinking it would be easier with the move and all. We get into the Osaki Minivan and drive through the peceful streets of my current host town, Kouda, and into the hectic commuters filled streets of Kochi City. We talk a very little bit, mostly just introductory stuff, after all, I had only just moved into her house yesterday. She asked me what I had planned for after school, and I told her nothing. So she suggested we go to the big sports arena where Maako was having practice and jog. I told it sounded like a good plan. When we arrived at Tosajoshi, I thanked her for the ride to school and told her I'd see her at about 4. She told me to be very careful because I'd never taken the streets before, and if I got lost, I should call her. But honestly, I knew I wasn't going to get lost. I'm very good at finding stuff and finding my way. Since I was very early getting dropped off, I went and waited in the library, where I did a little studying, until the second late bell rang. Then I climbed up 3 of the 5 floors of the Tosajoshi High School main building. I made my way through herds of Japanese school girls screaming and laughing and greeting me with "OHAYOU!" Then I finally reached room 16, my home room, Yano Home. Aimi gave me a greeting smile as I slide open the sliding glass door. My desk is the last desk in the first row and the immediate desk, upon sliding open the door. I quickly took off my jacket, hung it on my seat, took out my Japanese text book, and studied. Friends around me squeel and laugh at each others conversations. I have a lot of friends but this past month I have been spending alot of time by myself. Mostly because these girls have been going to school together for years and have a lot of inside jokes. But also sometimes culture shock, gets the best of me. At first, I worried that my friends were getting tired of me because they didn't talk to me EVERY second. But now I realize that I have way more friends than the average exchange student, but sometimes it is just hard to keep up with a different culture and different lifestyle. At 8:35, when homeroom began, the homeroom teacher, Yano-sensei, briefly took attendance. A few minutes later, he announced that homeroom was finished, and Aimi and Shoko, the class leaders called for everyone to stand up. Then bow to the teacher. It's a very old custom that basically states pure and utmost respect for the authority figure and grand master of the classroom. Everyone is required to do it, but I really don't think it makes its point. The fact is, nobody actualy does it with any enthusiasm. And the only person who actually makes a true bow is the teacher. My first Monday class is English Conversation in the Tosajoshi Middle School. I have a grand total of 4 of these English Conversation classes, but Monday is without a doubt, the greatest of all the classes. I am basically an assistant to the main teacher, Ms. Paula Fabian, born in America, but a Kochi resident for 20 years, and someone who pushes the Japanese culture to the edge. It is definitely the most fun I have during school, and even though it's an English class, I pick up a lot of vocabulary. Ms. Fabian teaches like an American style teacher, interacting and pushing the students to give their own answers and ideas. I think that is the reason why we have such a hard time with these kids though. Japanese students don't have their own ideas. But anyway, Monday's class is still alot of fun. The class is home to the crazy Osca, who firmly believes that she comes from the Sun. When the starting bell rings, the girls of this class have been taught to bow their heads, close their eyes, and meditate until the teacher wishes to begin. Ms. Fabian and I always crack up thinking about spreading this custom to an American classroom. It's just not possible. I have suggested on more than one occasion to leave the students in this mediation for an entire period. Ms. Fabian begins with "Good Morning!" The girls fling their heads up to listen and respond, "Guodo Morningu." "Ms. Fabian continues, "Now say 'Good Morning Julie'" "Guodo Morningu Judie!" "Now how about you ask how she is doing?" Ms. Fabian suggests. "Houw ar yu tuday?" I respond, "I'm very happy (because I just changed host families) How about you? How are you this morning?" But usually I answer tired, sleepy, annoyed, fine, okay, or jubilant (to totally throw them off.) We began the class with Ms. Fabian announcing next's week final test of the school year. She and I then pass out the study sheets she has made for them to work on. The first couple questions on the paper are talked about and written on the board, then I went around and make sure everyone is copying what the teacher is writing. Occasionally this involves me stopping and helping with spelling or answering how to say "..." in English. This class never ceases to impress me, though. "Where do you come from?" Most of the students answer perfectly- "Kochi City." Some are even at an English level to joke around, Osca is now insisting she came from the Moon. The next question is far more difficult, "What is you town like?" Ms. Fabian list some adjectives on the board for the girls to choose from- small, big, loud, noisey, rural, etc. The right answer should be rural, but I'm not the student. Some write, "It has..." with either trees, cars, people, vegetables, etc. I suggsted to Ms. Fabian that it has Hicks. When we are done filling in the questions, the class splits into small groups without any protest, to practice and prepare for next week's final test. I walk around and practice with the few girls who are partnerless. When the bell rings, the class always tells Ms. Fabian and I, "See you!" My next class if the day was Self Study, but I ended up spending most of it talking to Ms. Fabian about my new host family, and why things didn't work out wonderfully with the last one. I really enjoy talking to her. It gives me time to realize that my English is horrible and a chance to complain about the things in Japan that I really don't like. She always complains to me about how much she hates the school system here as well. I think if it weren't for complaints and a common language, I wonder if I would even talk to her at all. I finally made my way to the library, a little late, but not exactly missed. Self Study involves well... self study. Last Thursday a certain occurence took place involving a close friend making an unprovoked remark about my poor Japanese. My Japanese isn't perfect, but it's far from poor. The occurence prompted me to study harder, however. Not that I didn't study hard before. It's just I want to be able to understand alot more of what my new host sisters say to me. My 3rd and 4th period is Home Economics with my homeroom and Nakazawa-sensei. Nakazawa is a really nice teachers even though I think she is way too young to have to deal with teachering high schools. I really can't understand anything of what is being said. So I didn't really pay too much attention. But even if it was in English I wouldnt pay to much attention. The class is really just manners, how to cook, be a good mother, and all that jazz. Essentially everything in steps on how to be the true woman- a housewife. Thus I glue myself to my language studies. My classmates don't pay much attention to class either, most are wrapped up in Manga, loudly conversing, or slumbering blissfully. When the 3rd period ends, I accompanied Shoko, Aimi, Tomoko, and Mosa to the school television room. There the class was to watch a movie on...well... on something. I couldn't figure it out, and I'm not sure anybody else could either. But I do find a pretty funny similiarity between Japanese and American school kids. Both are often forced to watch terrible school-approved movies where the characters can't act to save their lives and have horrible haircuts that only would have been cool in the 80's. And both students from America and Japan spend a lot of time making fun of the movies rather than watching them. It's okay, though, because the movies never make any sense anyway. I learned all about Puberty from a video where the parents made a uterus out of pancakes. I reckon here in Japan, they used Sushi. Every school in Japan has the same bell to end, begin, and give ten minute warning during the morning and lunch hours. To me, it's just a long and really annoying doorbell. (It's the same sound as my neighbors at home!) But to Japanese students it means YASUMI! (Break) Sometimes the bell you hear comes from the various surronding schools in the area, so false hope runs rapid with the Tosajoshi girls. When the actual Tosajoshi bell rang, Yano-homeroom bowed to Nakazawa-sensei and headed back to the homeroom. I've been told on various occasions, that one must never walk alone of they don't have to. It gets kind of annoying, but I walked back with Shoko and Mosa, while Aimi and Tomoko ran to the bread shop for lunch. Back in the homeroom, my lunch group, Aimi, Tomoko, Mosa, and Shoko, pulled up desks and chairs, sat down, and took out their little Bento box lunches. We all say, "Itadekimasu," which is kind of like saying 'Grace' but it has more to do with the culture of Japan than of the religion. I've never actually met a Japanese person who didn't say it. My tiny Bento box was quite tasty. I was surprised because this was my first Bento from my new host mom. 1/2 the box was filled with seasoned rice, while the other half at different treats like Salmon, Spinach, and other sorts of fish. The girls all talked about some random Tosajoshi occurences, while I tried hard to listen and understand what they were talking about. The thing about lunch, is that it used to be a traumatically difficuly experience for me. I am an American, and therefore, I eat fast, or breaking the sound barrier fast in Japan. Japanese girls are so slow that I first thought that they waiting for each other to die, before they could finish eating. In the first few months I finished my lunch box in minutes, while the girls sat around and watched in disgust. In all of their Japanese indirectness, they made comments about how I am always the first to finish... probably in the whole school. To them I pretty much vacuum inhaled the food. In America, I ate at a normal healthy pace. Eating slow gradually became a part of life, and it's not a struggle anymore. Now I finish 3rd in the eating contest, even though my lunch is always the smallesy. I've learned a really good lesson about eating. The slower you eat, the less you eat because you feel fuller, and you learn to enjoy every last bite. After the 2008 came and went, the girls finished and started a card game. I packed up some of my belongings and headed to the library to wait for my next class. I skimmed the book and looked for questions I could ask Arakawa-sensei, the teacher of my next class. When the bell finally rang, a few minutes later, Arakawa-sensei entered the library. She is a really kind older woman, who speaks a little bit of English. I immediately spoke to her in Japanese and asked a few questions. Afterwards she gave me an assignment of particles, which is my worst subject. And not surprisingly, I got nearly half of them wrong. After I bombed the assignment, I asked her what she thought about my Japanese. She respond that since our last lesson, which was probably a month earlier, my Japanese had surged forward. People who have no right to make comments about my Japanese are always making nasty remarks. But when good praise comes from a teacher, I am very happy and quite relieved. She also reamrked that after 6 months, I am at a great level for the halfway point. After all, Japanese is much harder than English, especially for someone who hasn't studied that language prior to coming to Japan. My final class of the day is Gym with my homeroom. So after I thanked Arakawa-sensei, I headed up to the third floor where my classmates were changing into their gym uniforms. Everyone was nearly finished, so I really had to hurry up. Just for the record, if someone back in America ever complain about gym clothes in my presence, I'm going punch them. We have the world's most awful uniform, and I'm totally not exaggerating about that. They are these bright yellow sweat suits with the Tosajoshi flower and the name of the student. Mine says, of all the weird names in the world, "Uraytay." Mind you, that's not a Japanese name. I really haven't a clue what it means. Anyway, individually we look like bananas, while clumped together a group of students looks like a plate of cheese. I can't even begin on the horror and the loathing I possess for this sweat suit. To make matter worse, my uniform is really short so I look like a banana going clam digging. Taking off the sailor uniform isn't exactly easy either. When all is said and done, I look like I stepped out of a Tornado. My group of 5 girls goes to the shoe cubby area, where we change our slipper into the indoor gym shoes. We have a grand total of 4 pairs of shoes at the school, while there are 2,000 students and a little over a 100 teachers. Now I haven't takena math class in a while, but I'm pretty sure that means there are about 8,500 pairs of shoes in Tosajoshi. My group then heads to the Tosajoshi gym/auditorium for this semesters rotation sport of Volleyball. My team, the same group as my lunch crowd are the first to have received testing from the gym teacher. First we did our warm up excercises, which are a bit of a joke. We kind of just wave our arms around and look like peeling bananas. But warm up is nothing like the rest of the class. What shocks me about Japanese gym class is that everyone participates. I think I'll write a column on that later on. When it was time for testing, my group did quite well. My test went really smoothly too, except I can't really serve. I was really happy to be included with the class in testing. Sometimes I feel the I'm just a class mascot who doesn't have to do anything. When I'm asked to participate, it means I am an actual student. Shoko, Mosa, and I played a little soccer, where we really took off the gym teacher's head. It's been a long time but I can still play soccer. For the last few minutes of the class, our team played another team in Volleyball. And slaughtered them 12-3. The bell rang and we were really late for last homeroom. Back in room 16, most of the girls changed back into their sailor suits fight in front of Yano-sensei. I couldn't bring myself to chnage in front of a man. So when we were dismissed I was a lone banana in a sea of sailors. After the final bow, everyone must pull their deak to the back of the room in assistance of the current classroom cleaning crew. Luckily, this week, my group has no cleaning duties and I am free as soon as I changed into my sailor uniform. I quickly changed and then headed down the shoe cubby area and changed the slippers for the black leather clunkers. I found my bike, sandwiched between two school bikes. I had not seen it since Friday, so I after a brief reunion, I wrestled it out from the other bikes. I then pulled it to the school gates, where I pushed them open and freed myself from the clutches of Tosajoshi. I turned right and headed straight fr the Kochi Prefecture library to drop off some Japanese history books that I was finished with. I then crossed my fingers and followed some signs that looked somewhat familiar in hopes of finding my new host town, Kouda. Being honest, it wasn't difficult at all, I really I am a great navagator. Just before the bridge over the main Kochi rover, the Kagami, I stopped at a Family Mart Convenience store for some gum and cake. I made my way home at around 4, after I passed underneath the underground walkway. I wanted to do some more exploring but I was unsure what my host mom had planned and what the times were. But from what I got on the that first bike ride, Kouda, is great. It reminds me so much of my hometown of Verona, in that it's really quiet but still has a main road. It's a city neighborhood with a suburd atmosphere. Just outside the Osak household are a bread store, book shop, super market, post office (the size of a shoe box), ande to my delight, and Okonomiacki restaurant. I pulled my rusty old bike into the driveway and knocked on the front door. Nearly seconds after I made my way inside, my host grandmother was dragging me out, with plans to visit the Osaki company. I pass it everyday to and from school. And the building is HUGE, with 3 enormous floors, lots of employees. I'm not exactl sure what it does, but I'm sure it's pretty successful. In an elevator, we traveled up to the third floor, where I was introduced to the main leaders in the company, and given a company profile, which had the craziest English ever. From reading it, I gathered the company makes gears or something. Maybe. My host Obachan (grandmother) is a pretty funky lady. She reminds me of an old lady version of Mrs. Frizzle from the Magic School Bus. She introduced me to one guy, who insisted I see his sword collection. Now I was thinking, toy swords. But nope. He opened a huge mahogany cabinet and pulled out a few velevet wrapped sticks. The first one, and most "unimpressive" because it was so young. Now I was thinking 10 or 20 years old. Nope it was only 200 years old. What a toddler! The oldest he owned was about 600 years old. And I couldn't help but think that the sword I was holding was more than twice the age of my country. He also handed me a small sword that was shockingly heavy. He explained in Japanese, that the sword was used by Samurai to committ suicide by slitting open their stomachs when they had committed dishonor upon their masters. I kept wondering whther the sword I had joking played around with had seen the inside of a Samurai's guts, and from the pride in the employee's eyes I'm pretty sure it had. Ew. Obachan realized that she had to get me back because of the committments I had made with the host mom. So we hopped into her BMW and drove back to the Osaki household. There I rushed up the 3 flights of stairs to my room and changed into running clothes and then ran back down stairs in time to jump into the Mini Van. We took a 30 minute through the city and then in to the country surrounding Kochi City. Hikari and Maako were sound asleep by the time we arrived. I couldn't help but crack up at this fact. Through rice paddies and abandoned cabins sprung this really out-of-place stadium looking thing. Maako woke up and jumped from the car and ran into the arena for her Synchronized swimming lesson. Okasan, Hikari, and Me started on a little jog around the area. We only lasted running for about 15 minutes because Hikari got really tired. So we walked for about an hour, until it got too dark. We continued the excercise inside the arena on an indoor track place. I showed Hikari an excercise I had learned from track, that nearly killed the poor girl. ABout an hour and half passed and we then went outside to wait for Maako. Hikari and I played a bunch of elementary school girls games while we waited. She ended up beasting me in Junken (Rock/Paper/Scissor) because she quickly figured out I ALWAYS throw out a scissor first. We also played touch tag and hand slap, but boredom soon got the best of us. When Maako was finished we piled back into the car and returned home, though nobody fell asleep. At home, Okasan quickly threw together a dinner, Oden, and some foul smelling weed looking thing with rice. I stayed in the living area with family and didn't use the computer once, because I didn't need too. I used it too much with my last family because I was always hiding in my room. I'm really liking the new family alot, no need to hide. I can only hope things continues to go as great as today and yesterday. I went to bed, and fell asleep wuickly, just after Hikari popped her head and said 'Good night.'

Week In The Life of a Ko Ichinensee: Tuesday

February 20, 2007
At 6:50, I was wide awake and ready for school. No, I'm really not enthusiastic, but I had a weird night in sleeping concerns. I kept waking up and falling back asleep. At 6:30 I was up and not willing to fal back asleep again, so I started 'the routine.' In 6 months, and 3 different host familes, this same routine has not changed once. It's amazing and probably the only thing about me that hasn't actually changed in this wild year. The routine involves waking up turning on my straighter and popping a piece of gum in my mouth. I know this is strange sounding but chewing actually stimulates the mind to wake up faster. While I wait for the straightener to warm up, I put on my uniform. Since it's the winter uniform and it still is pretty cold, I start with tight under armor. I'd wear thicker clothes because it is really cold, but the school is really strict. Actually if they found out I was even wearing the under shirt, I'd probably get into trouble. I did fail my uniform test last month for some crazy reasons. I next put on a pair of my always handy draw string adidas shorts, which are much too big. Then for the top of my sailor suit, which involves a brief wrestling match. Although the top is much too big it still is dofficult to get over my big head. I then put on my long skirt, which is too big and would fall off. But I roll it twice, breaking the major school rules. The straightener is usually ready and I sit for 10 minutes attempting to straighten the beastly hair. My hair is short now so it isn't to difficult. I manage to burn myself only once! A new record. My hair looked really straight, which meant it might actually stay that way till lunch. Though that was a little optomistic. After the straightening, I spat out my gum and brushed my teeth in the sink in the upstairs living room. Hikari and Maako have already gone downstairs and Yu is still asleep so I pretty much had the whole third floor to myself. When I finished brushing, I returned to the room put on some chap stick, eye liner (breaking another school rule), zit cream, and then threw my cell phone and writing notebook into the back on top of my school coat. Then I was totally ready and it was time to go downstairs for the morning excitement of the Osaki family kitchen. I sat at the bar kitchen table and poured myself a cup of strong coffee and drank it pitch black. Then I opened my Japanese book and began studying some language. At 7:45 I figured it ought be the right time to head to school. It was my first time for a morning bike ride and I wasn't sure about traffic and all that jazz. My host brother, Yu, was ready and decided to take me the way until we had to separate for different school. For about 6 or 7 minutes we drove together. He nearly killed me as I overworked my legs into a pedaling craze. The first main riad out of Kouda has no main side walk and instead has an underground walkway. Bikers have to get off and walk their bike down and up again on the other side. Most people I have met have told me that they avoid the underground sidewalk at all costs. It seems dangerous but I can't imagine it being that bad. I followed Yu in dismounting our bikes and then running them down the steep slope and under the hectic above ground road. After we climbed up the steep slope on the other side, Yu asked me which way I would be continuing. The only way I knew how to get to school was the way he was taking, but if I followed him I would definitely die an early death. So I pointed in the opposite direction and pedaled off. The daily ride to school is 30 minutes and I have sadly, not run into any of my friends along the way. It's no big deal, but I got used to having a biking partner with my host cousin, Eri, when I lived with the Oono's. My current family has 3 girls that go to public school in a different route. After some crazy navigation and exploration of the river side back alleyways I managed to find a proper route and get to school. I parked my grey ancient bike, that should be in a museum for old things, in the space labeled 37, between the other ancient Tosajoshi owned school bikes. Then I scurried to the shoe cubby area and changed into my slippers. After climbing 3 flights of stairs, I make my way to room 16, where I ran into Kaori. Kaori is my classmate who I call Chibi (meaning something like 'midget' in English.) She is exactly half of my height. I never get tired of standing next to her and saying "Hey, Chibi!" At 8:35, when the bell rings starting homeroom for all the Tosajoshi students, Yano homeroom got really quiet as Yano-sensei entered the room. He quickly skimmed the room, checking for absent students, then dismissed us all. First class of the day is Music with Nishimoto-sensei. The classroom is on the 3rd floor of the South building, with all the other extra culture and manner classes. I walk there with Shoko and tell her all about my latest host family. In the room, I share a piano with my friend, Shiho, who is celebrating her 16th birthday. I sit in her seat because she needs my half of the piano for her test. Today is the final test of the school year. Each row of 2 pianos and 4 girls has to play a rendition of the theme song to Sazae-san, a popular manga. You know that stereotype of smart Asians that are all great with music, especially the piano? Well I have enough experience to confirm that it's true. I am, alas, not Asian, so when the teacher tried to get my to play with my row, my classmates gulped and crossed out their dreams of getting an A. I eventually begged the teacher to not make me do it. When the bell rang, my row headed up to the front pianos and went first. Shiho, Tomoko, Megumi, and Nanae played a very successful rendition of Sazae-san. The other rows all followed in playing successful music. But we were all very happy when the bell rang to end class. Because I don't think anybody likes music. They are all just really good at it. For next class, I stayed with my homeroom as we returned back to our room for English with Yano-sensei. The class is alot of fun for me, for everyone else, it is pure agony. English in Japan is far more difficult and unenjoyable than English in an English-speaking country. I sit with Aimi, Shiho, and Nanae and am nearly always giving them answers. It's because they would never get them right on their own. I don't blame them though, class is really hard, even for me. But there is complaining about something in Japan, the country avoids change at all cost, and I doubt very much that the school system will change it's English program. My third class is Tea Ceremony, with the Middle school 8th graders. It's definitely my favorite class that I take in Tosajoshi. I left a little earlier to use the bathroom, only to realize that I had forgotten my Tea Ceremony cloth. SO I ran back to the room and then back to the Tosajoshi Tea Room. I was greeted enthusiastically by the old lady teachers, who really adore me, God knows why. I won't go into full details of Tea Ceremony class, because I save that for a different column, but I will say that we have partners that make us tea, and drink our homemade Tea. My partner truly deeply loathes me. I'm a beginner to this whole making Tea think, so sometimes I put to much powder in the cup, causing the partner to choke and have her mouth turn green. While, sometimes I put to little, and the concoction looks and tastes like slightly green dirt. Today I put way too much in the cup. My partner gave me a look of a thousand daggers, but when she opened her mounth to make a nasty comment I burst in laughter at her green mouth. Poor girl. For today's Okashi, or sweets, we ate Strawberry Mochi. Personally, I think Mochi is liking chewing on sugary rubber. But this particular Mochi was pretty tasty, and I ate all of it. My 4th class of the day was Self Study in the library. I was really not in the mood to crack open my book and study Japanese, so instead I read Sazae-san old school Japanese manga. I stayed in the library through the lunch period, because I wanted to talk with some middle schooler kids that I had in my Monday morning English class. I'm always amused at Ichinensee English. 5th period found me heading back to my homeroom for Advanced Japanese class with my least favorite teacher in the school. The class, like the teacher, was pretty boring and I spent the 50 minutes writing one of my columns about language blunders (will post later on.) 6th period found me returning to my school away from school in the library for a private Japanese lesson with my school counselor, Matsuoka-sensei. He is my Japanese teacher, but he always speaks English to me. Usually I just let him, but today I only answered in Japanese and did my famous, "I don't understand your English, try Japanese." Together we talked about my new family, my Rotary orientation, and other things about me. Then he made my day when he said that is since our last lesson, 2 weeks ago, my Japanese has increased at an alarmingly amazing pace. I told him that I'd been studying the langauge in all my freetime and with my current family, speaking is not an option, it's a requirement or get lost in the madness. When the bell rang, I trekked 3 flights back to room 16 for dismissal. After Yano-sensei dismissed us, I scurried off to the Koto room and waited patiently on the Tatemi flooring for my Koto friends to arrive and give me directions. For the record, my best friends in the entire school are my Koto friends. Especially Chiake and Yukimi. When Chiake arrived at the room, she informed that she and the rest of my grade mates had stupid extra classes. The funny part is that they all failed English. I think that's why Matsuoka-sensei suggested I join the Koto club in the first place. The whole High school first grade class of the track team did not fail English (probably only Aimi.) Just goes to show that some stereotypes aren't true. Anyway Chiake also told me that I would be taking private one-on-one Koto lessons with the special Koto sensei. So when she arrived, we headed into the long hallway outside the Koto room and art rooms and began easy simple drills after she went over other drills with the more advanced students. The first thing the teacher did was remove my cheat tape. Basically the tape was placed on the specific number string because I had not yet memorized the place of the strings. This got me really nervous because I really hadn't momorized the placement and I'd never even tried to learn. But I was shocked because it seemed as soon as the sensei asked me to begin, I was able to play exactly what she pointed out. Somehow over the course of all the practices I had attempted, I had picked up the placement of the string. The sensei was very pleased, and I was amazed at myself. I beasted the first 4 sets of notes with no trouble whatsoever. The fifth one was slightly more difficult. But at the end of the lesson I had got through 10 sets! (That's really impressive, apparently) The teacher shouted commands that I never understood, but acted like I did. (I'm telling you, I ought to take up acting when I get home.) I know I should have been proud of myself, but they were far too easy, even for a beginner, such as myself. When the private sensei left, the School teacher Koto president gave me a pretty expensive bill for 3 months of Koto club membership. I don't mind paying it because I really love the club, the instrument, and above all my new incredible friends, even though they tend to fail English. The high school first graders always have to stay and clean, pack up the Koto equipment, turn off the lights, and lock the room up. Basically make sure everything is left in order for the next days practice. I waited with all of my friends and we joked and danced around the room until 6. At some point I told everyone that I had moved families and was living in a totally different section of the city. But I couldn't remeber the name except that it started with a K. CHiake said, "Kouda?" I knew right away it was, and nodded happily. Suddenly the club room was shaking with a loud scream. Chiake was jumping up and down screaming, "That's my hometown! What do you live close to?" AT this point, I was really excited too, "The Sunny Mart." "AHHHHHHHHH!!!!!" That's how I found out the my best friend lives about 5 minutes from my house. When it was time to return home, Chiake hopped on her bike and met me at the main gate. We rode home together laughing and screaming the whole way. She took me on a really awesome scenic route that I had not discovered and would keep me away from the Underground walkway. I was so happy that I arrived home in pure excitement. I was a little later than I said I would be, so my host parents were a bit worried about where I had been. But I explained to them about riding home with Chiake, and they were really relieved. On the late nights at school, I'll be riding home with someone. At dinner we ate a delicious bowl of Kimuchi Korean food. The Osaki's were amazed that I could eat such a spicy dish with no problem. 2 words: Mexican food. The only problem was that my lips were chapped and spicy food is beastly to this particular condition. I was so tired I went to bed at 9:30.

Week in the Life of a Ko Ichinensee: Synchronized Wednesday

February 21, 2007
I woke up consistantly ever hour on the hour for some reason, so I was up at 6:30 and ready to start the day. I did my daily routine, when my host sister Hikari poked her head into my room and said cheerfully, "Ohayou!" When I was all finished with the routine, I climbed down the 3 flights of stairs and into the warmth of the Osaki kitchen. To be honest, I'm really began enjoying mornings. Okay so it was only my third morning, but I loved the havic and craze of the bog family dynamics. I sat and watched in awe as my host mom got 4 kids ready for school without breaking a sweat, raising her voice, or showing any sign of annoyance. My host father had returned home sometime during the night from a business trip and happily wished me a good morning. He declared that today would be the day we got internet into my room. Honestly, though, I wasn't worried because these past few days without internet have been great. With my second host family, I was ALWAYS on the internet. Now that I don't have the chance to, I've already become more apart of the Osaki family after 3 days than I did with the Oono's in 3 months. I'm just enjoying spending time with my host sisters and parents and getting to know them and become apart of their daily lifestyle for 3 months. After my daily cup of coffee, I waited for Chiake with no such luck, and I pedaled off at 8, following Chiake's scenic route. After 20 minutes I reached the main part of the busy farm city Kochi, and stopped at a Kagome Convenience store for my usual Kissing Watermint gum. And then 5 minutes later I was bursting thru the Tosajoshi gates and parking my bike in it's usual spot. I then crossed the green gym like court yard and into the shoe cubby area. On the second to last shelf, Yano's homeroom have an area dedicated to their 4 pairs of shoes. My spot is labeled 48, even though my number is really 44. I change from my black Pilgrim leather outside school required wear, into the white blue soled slipper like shoes. There are two other pairs left in the cubby, my indoor gym shoes and my outdoor gym shoes. Both have a green stripe, because green stands for the grade in which I am in. All the Ichinensee in the High School and Middle School have the green stripe, while red belongs to Ninensee, and yellow to Sanensee. After homeroom, the first class is Biology, where I am actually expected to try. I learned most of the material in American high school Biology, but I still can't understand a word, Sugino-sensei says. I do try to do the work, but it's really hard to construct the inside of a Frog's endothermic cell if you can't read where the pieces go. For today's class I sit and stare at space and try to decide how I can spend my large amount of free time without going crazy. Somewhere between Biology and my second class, Self Study in the library, it hit me. I then started my current project a complex and detailed journal entry, "A Week in My Life." It's funny for me to type this. I mean it's a weird to think that I'm typing about what I wrote about what I wrote. Wow. Haha. I continued writing in Self Study, until the pen died an honorbale death and was given a proper funeral. Then I was back to reading Japanese comics. 3rd period was another class of homeroom English. And like usual, my surrounding classmates used me as the answer machine. They really shouldn't because I actually get alot of the English wrong. Personally I have never actually heard most of this English before, but hey, that's Japan for you. Today I spent 20 minutes trying to figure out the following missing words: "I learned to play the violin (-) the (-) of 10." If it was a snake it would have bit me. I leanred to play the violin AT the AGE of 10. That's difficult for me, imagine a group of girls who don't speak the language and hate English trying to determine the answer to the problem. It's comical. I gave my answer to Aimi, who answered and became the hero of the class for determining the answer to such a diffucult problem. It had stumped 10 of the other classmated. Yano-sensei was abolutely amazed and kept complimenting Aimi's sheer brilliance. The pompous brat sat back and said, "Oh it was nothing." Next period I went down two flights of stairs, thru a cold passageway, and back up 2 flights of stairs to the school Calligraphy room. Taniwaki-sensei is a world renowned teacher who is a really patient and kind man. He is often traveling to Austria, where I think he has pieces in a museum. Actually he kind of annoys me. I think he must have smoked in his younger days, because now he's is ALWAYS doing that "EN..HUM..." throat clearer. It's really annoying. But anyway today, I entered the classroom and set up the equipment. I grabbed the ink, ink bowl, felt backstop, brush and paper holder from the second cabinet in his desk. Then I snagged some white paper and straightened it out with the paper weight. When Taniwaki-sensei entered the room we had a long talk about my new host family. We both agreed that for today's assignment I would be practicing writing the Kanji on Osaki, which isn't too hard. After at least 500 attempts, 100 of which Taniwaki-sensei smiled at and said, "Just a little more..." I completeted one that was satisfactory to the teacher. Although I'm not sure if it was really satisfactory or just that we ran out of time. At least I now know how to write Osaki in Japanese Kanji. Just as class ended, I cleaned the brush and ink bowl with the water faucet. But I turned on the water pressure much too high and the ink got all over my old school neck tie. It's ruined, but I'm not upset. They are pretty cheap and my friends have been updating I had ought to get a new one anyway. It's all ripped and tattered and it's breaking like 3 school uniform violations. Well, I guess I'll just get a new one. I ate my tasty little Bento box silently listening to my friends act like morons. At one point, I pointed to the weed like substance that I have been eating for many months. It tastes pretty good mixed with rice, but it is pretty foul looking. I've had this policy never to ask what it is if it looks gross but is tasty. Today I was curious though. The girls revealed my suspicions. I had been eating Kelp. On a grossness scale of Japanese food, that's probably only about a PG. But essentially I'm eating goldfish food. Oh well. I was hungry and it is tasty stuff, I left lunch early and walked to the dread Wednesday English Conversation class. I've never had the misfortune of being in such a terrible class. I can't even begin to go into it. But Ms. Fabian, who I think is really a tough lady, leaves them and sometimes is just about in tears. They are just so horrible. Today, I had a chance at revenge. We are giving them their final test of the school year. A speaking test with really easy questions. And the answers can just be written on the paper they are reading from. In any normal class, there would be no way to fail. All you have to do is read the paper! But this class is not like any normal class. To be honest, I was fair though. I passed 3/4 of them, when really only about 1/4 of them actually did what was asked. Rotten little munchkins. And they aren't even cute. When the class ended (thank god!) Masako came slunkering into the room with a grim look on her face. She explained that she had left her Ipod 2 periods ago. Ms. Fabian and I exchanged glares and as if on cue, "You left with the WRONG class." She was lucky, though. Or maybe not. She found the Ipod in a desk on the other side of the room. The ear buds were another desk somewhere else. I think the kids probably had a nice little game of Frisbee, but I can't be too sure. I walked back to next class, Long Homeroom, with Masako, speaking only Japanese. She told me she was AMAZED at how well I'm speaking the language and not to listen to Yurie, who had said my language wasn't good. That fact is that I have better language then the girls last year and the year before that. Plus I have made better friends, joined clubs, and fit in well with Tosajoshi life. The best was still to come. Long Homeroom with Yano-sensei is usually incredibly boring. Yano-sensei is a really nice guy, though. He even came to the airport in August when I first landed in Kochi, though I didn't who he was at the time. He started the period off with asking what everyine would be willing to do for the upcoming homeroom class matches. I was later assigned to the Yano-home Basketball team. That should be interesting... Afterward, yano-sensei came to the back of the room, where my desk is, and struck up a conversation in Japanese. I understaood nearly all of what he said, and was able to pidgeon Japanese answers. O told him about the move, and he was really curious about the whereabout of my new house. With only the following information: In Kouda, near a Sunny Mart Supermarket, Book Store, Bread Shop, and an Okonomiacki restaurant, we located the house on a HUGE map with the help of Aimi and Nanae. After more conversation, Yano-sensei began the highest praisal of my Japanese that I have ever received. He then turned to Aimi, Shiho, and Nanae and started yelling at them for teaching me bad Japanese slang and Tosa Ben. I have in fact picked up Tosa Ben, which is the dialect of Japanese only spoken in Kochi. It's kind of awful, too. Now that when I speak Japanese to someone outside of Shikoku, I not only have bad Japanese but I speak like a freakin' hick from the farms of Kochi. I can not speak it either, because everyone around me speaks it. It's impossible not to talk. I continued and told Yano-sensei that I thought English was too difficult, it seems like I'm always giving answers to the girls because they don't seem to get it. Oops. It suddenly all made sense. Aimi really is a dumby, how could she possibly answer such a difficult English question? Yano-sensei turned to her and REALLY started to scold her, as I whispered apoligies behind his back. When class ended, I didn't say goodbye because I sprinted at lightening speed through the sliding door, raced down the stairs, through on my Pilgrim shoes, and wrestled my bike out of the school gates. I had to be home as early as possible because I was going to Maako and Hikari's Synchronized swimming class. On my bike, I literally pedaled to a pace where I could have started flying. I made the 30 minute bike trip in only 20 minutes, and nearly died as I walked through the door. My host mom gave me one of her old bathing suits that is too tight on her. Last Sunday she asked if I had a bathing suit of my own, which I do. I told her it was a bikini. Now she and the rest of the Synchronized Swimming mothers have a little joke about me. I'll never understand how a country with such acceptance to being naked can have such a problem with girls in bikinis. The borrowed bathing suit was a long grey and blue two piece with tight shorts for the bottom and a zipper up top. I changed into quickly and then threw some other clothes into a bag for the pool and afterwards. I didn't get a chance to see myself in a bathing suit in the middle of winter. The thought made me shutter, however. In the van, we made a couple quick stops and picked up some other little girls in swimming wear. On one occasion, a lady was riding her bike beside our car and suddenly fell off. Some men who were busy pacving the sidewalk immediately hopped to her aide, but my host mom and host sisters also went to help her. I couldn't but think that this would never ever happen in America. Hikari dragged me through the enormous center and into the pool locker room, after Okasan bought me a ticket for the pool. Inside I met up the 5 year-old presidents of the Gaijin Julie Fan Club, Aki and Mika. I met them on Sunday at the huge Synchronized swimming party in Kochi City. After they gave me a million hugs the group of beginners to "Shincoro" (Synconized swimming in Japanese) piled on a group of orange mats beside the pool. Since I don`t own a mat, we borrowed 5 kick boards and lined them up in a long row. I was still to big for the makeshift mat. What was worse was that the squished me in between Hikari and another little girl. I was sandwiched between 2, 7 year-old little girls, uncomortable, and attempting difficult stretches. After the stretches, the beginners scurried over to the unoccupied swimming area and did the bow to the tahers. Then they turned around and bowed to the pool! I'm totally used to the bowing thing now, but sometimes we b ow to things that really throw me off! After, we jumped into the 50m pool on the far end away from the main Shincro swimmers. Our first drill was 6 non-stop Freestyle laps. I should have foreseen the oncoming pain at this point.It wa s followed by more drills, which I had a bit of hard time with. The teacher kept offering me breaks, but I`m much too stubborn. The next drill was a Kickboard kick, in which I was the slowest swimmer by far. Who would think it would be so difficult? But a sudden problem occured with my body. Last year when I had first started running, I would get these horrible shooting pains in my legs that would force me not to be able to stand at nightime. I would actually go to bed in tears from the pain. Luckily, though they stopped, as my body began to get stronger and in much better shape. But with new burst of excercise in different muscles, they were coming back. And at one point, the pain was so unbearable that I could barely keep my head above water. I took a break, but for the rest of practice I was plagued with horrible random bursts of shooting pains. My teammates really liked me being at their practice. I think one of the main reasons was because I wasn't intimidating to them. They were much better swimmers but also I stood on my knees in the pool, which was down to their level. I didn't accept special treatment either. It's weird but being here has made me understand human nature a little better. Only someone with no communication skills and strong observing nature could notice these things. After a few more speed trials, in which most of the girls were in tears with pain, the teacher agreed to allow the girls to move up to the actual Shincro practice. We were given these nose pieces that hold together the nostrils so no water flows in. Personally I thinkk i looked like a Who from the Grinch movie and sounded ljust as strange as I looked. Our first practice drill was flipping while holding onto the wall tighly. Then the left leg rose, followed by the right. Then you arch your food to the ceiling before sliding back down slowly with any splashes. Oddly enough, I did very well until it was time to let do of the wall and only use buoy things. After about an hour of practice, I got out of the pool to use the bathroom. I never in all of life, thought I could actually look good in a bathing suit, especially one that was giving me a camel toe from hell! But looking at myself in a mirror, and... well... I can't wait for bikini season! Back in the pool, I realized we had s pent about 3 hours swimming and my physical condition was deteriorating at an alarming pace. The shooting pains became more frequent. Waterlogger Julie nearly had a fit of joy when the announcer announced the end of practice. That's not to say i didn't enjoy the practice. Atcually I'm really glad I got the experience. When everyone cleaned the pool, put on the cover, we did one final bow to the teachers and pool. A funny occurence happened during the final bow. All the beginners, or Kyohei, must stand behind the Sempie, or senior students out of respect for age. I practiced with the Kyohei so I was expected to stand in the back. But when I went to follow hikari, the Sempie saw me coming and, in total fear for her life over my size and gaijin appearence, bowed to me and stood in the back with the Kyohei. Poor girl. When the speech ended, we all trudged into the locker room to change our bathing suits into normal street clothes. I changed in front of everyone, and I even as ked myself what ever happened to the prude me who was totally afraid to be naked in front of anyone but myself. Somehow my tired bosy trasported me to the carpool and from there bcak home to the Osakis. It was 9 when we got home and ate heated up Chinese Stew. Otosan ran throughout the house trying to figure out how to get internet in my room. On more than one occasion did my head actually nearly fall into the bowl of Chinese food. I finally got to bed around 12.

Week In the Life of a Ko Ichinensee: MokuYoubi=Thursday

February 22, 2007
When my alarm rang at 6:50, I layed in my bed for about 15 minutes wondering how to go about the difficult process of moving. I consider myself a fairly athletic person, biking an hour everyday, running, walking, and doing excercises much more than the average person. But dear god, every muscle in my body that I usually don't use was contacting a lawyer for abuse charges on that particular morning. After I limped through my daily routine, i headed down the 3 flights of stairs for the morning excitement and coffee of the Osaki kitchen. Soon I was painfully on my bike riding like a turtle with a broken leg. When I arrived a Tosajoshi, I assessed the damage of my body. My legs were shaking uncontrollably, arms ready pulls themselves out of the socket and climb away, and my feet cursing at me as I climbed 3 floors to get to room 16. Nothing important happened in the first 2 periods of English and World History. I just gave Aimi more English answers. Even though when she answered, Yano-sensei smiled and said, "Thank you, Julie!" The World History teacher, Furuchan-sensei, really really likes me. Every chance he gets, he uses me as an example for something. the last example was when he was explaining Hernando Cortez conquest of the Aztec. "The Aztecs had never seen a white person and were really shocked. Kind of like most of the Tosajoshi girls when they first saw Julie. Holy Crap Gaijin! Though the Aztecs said something more like, "Holy crap a white guy that might be a God!" I wanted to tell him that half of the girls acted like I was a God too. Furuchan-sensei is Japanese, and thus has horrific English. While, my classmates all studied for their upcoming tests, Furuchan-sensei hovered in the back of the room trying to decide how he was going to go about having a conversation with me. "So New jersey-shu we ather warm this year?" I answered in Japanese, "December and January were unusually warm. But last week my sister had a snow day." He turned to the class and announced that weather in New Jersey is really warm this year. Often Japanese people think they know more about America than an American does. This is because it is physically impossible for anyone to be as smart as the Japanese. When these things happen, I generally just allow the person to continue speaking while shaking my head behind their back. He continued in English, even though I could understand his Japanese much better, which really isn't saying much. When he walked away, I hate 1/2 of my tiny Bento box. 3rd and 4th period were joint periods with Morida-sensei. The class is.... prepare yourself for laughter... SEWING. Morida-sensei always goves private one-on-one Sewing lessons to exchange students. I think she first started doing this in the 80's. I also think she considers it a crime that young woman don't know how to sew. I don7t have the heart to tell her that I don't know anyone who can actually sew. The assignment for the class is to sew my very own Yukata, which is a summer time Kimono. My cloth is dark pink with these over sized 6 petal flowers. I think it's kind of weird looking and I'm not sure what I was thinking when I picked it out. Sewing, I have learned, is not hard at all, if you have the patience of a saint and unlimited time. Both of which I strongly lack. Some parts of the Yukata sewing process have needed to use of a sewing machine. It took me a long time and a curvey line where there was supposed to a perfect straight line, to get the hang of it. I also managed to sew a piece of school uniform onto the Yukata. Don't ask me how I did that, but instead of being mad, Morida-sensei nearly wet herself. I don't think she had ever had a student with such terrible skills in the art of sewing. 4th period was me just sewing and sewing my little fingers off. I also nearly fell asleep and ketp apoligizing for my excessive tiredness. She said it was a relief that I was just tired and not truly losthing sewing like she had figured. I laughed and not to worry. I DO hate sewing, but when I'm less tired I can at least act like I don't. That totally went over her head. The bell rang just as my fingers began to bleed from me poking myself so much. Gah...sewing! I went directly to the 4th floor deserted corridor and did some stair climbing drills with the belief that stretching the sleeping muscles would dull the pain. Wrong. Coming back from the stair case I ran into Nakazawa-sensei and she told me I looked very thin. This made me happy. My next class was the Thursday English class in the middle school. They aren't usually quite as horrid as the Wednesday class, but today they were being real loud and obnoxious. We tested them and actually finished with everyone, suprising Ms. Fabian and I a whole lot. As soon as the testing ended. the girls began shouting and became annoying little beasts. We tried to get them to play Bingo. Bascially I stood in front of the class and took a stem verb and made into a current action. For example. the word sing. I would say "I am singING." They really weren'tinto the game at all, which was fine because the bell ran not to long after that. I walked with Ms. Fabian all the way to my next class and confessed to her that I really do love Japan, but everytime I'm with her it seems I'm just complaining about how much I hate it. It's just that I can't express myself in Japanese and even if I could, I would never be able to complain about Japan to a Japanese person. She pointed out something really interesting. One of the main factors of speaking English is complaining. It's a conversation starter and way to find out more about the people we are talking to. Complaining is non-existant in Japanese, and they don't teach it in English class. That's probably why they have such horrible English. My next class is private Japanese with Kitazoe-sensei. She was my teacher on the School excursion and will most likely be my teacher when I change grades next month. We studied alot from my Japanese books. I'm making good progress, but I really found something that got me stuck. I still don't know how to use the certain forms. She started telling me about the upcoming test, though I really didn't have to worry about it. The grades don't matter to my future at the school or for anything for that matter. But I'm one of those people who strives to be the test, so I'm going to be studying. When school ended for the day, I hurried up to the 4th floor Calligrpahy roon and waited the Nihon Buyou club to start. First I finished my lunch of more Kelp rice, when Yukimi-sensei arrived. She gave me some pictures from the recital and told me that she had video taped the performance. I would get a copy within the next couple of weeks. For information on what we did, refer to 'My Japanese Dance Recital.' Today we just worked on a dance, even though I could barely move. I leanred a new word: shindoi. It means exhausted. I pedaled home as slow and painlessly as possible. It was nerve wrecking though because the sky could open up and drench me at any moment. It was just that kind of weather. I had told my host mom, I would be home at 6, but I made it home at 5. So I went upstairs to my room and typed all about Monday for about an hour. When at 7:30, Hikari and Maako returned from ballet, we all ate dinner. Then I took my Ofuro. Later on I was playing with Hikari when I came up with a fun idea. I began teaching her some of my favorite school games. I started with Bubble gum, Bubble gum. She quickly figured out how to crush me. Then I showed her Poop in the Barnyard, which caused alot of laughter when I explained what poop is. I showed her Ring Around the Rosey, which she didn't like very much. Finally I couldn't take much more and went to bed.

Eigo Class

Febuary 30, 2007
There is something I really can't figure out about Japan. Okay, so really there is a lot of things I can't figure out about about this place. But this is something that really bothers me? Not only do all foreigners have the inability to understand this, but when asking the Japanese, they too, seem to be at loss for words. What is the point of the Japanese educations's English class? How is it possibly going to be useful in life? And before you jump down my throat with answers, I would like to explain. In the first week of my Japanese school experience, I went around and asked each and everyone of my friends what the most difficult subject was. Therefore, I could drop it in order to take a Self Study period. As if well rehearsed, each and every one of the girls responded simuntaniously, "English!"Now, I suspected that they were just joking around. I mean honestly, why would I drop a subject which I learned to have a firm grip on at the tender age of 4. But from the moment my first English Grammar class began, that very week, I knew exactly what the girls had meant in their suggestion. The students, not only in my school but in every school across the nation connected to the Japanese Ministry of Education, are expected to know Gerunds, misplaced modifiers, and many other cruel grammatical pleasures that would make my 8th grade English teacher rejoice. English Reading, I found to be significantly easier, but as I peered at my classmates blank stares, I realized that it wasn't easy for Japanese students. My first wrongful expectation took place shirtly after that. Since English Grammar and Reading is taught, surely there would be a class on the most important aspect of learning a foreign language, Speech/ Listening. I was proven wrong, yet again. And it got me thinking. To be frank, I always hated foreign language class at school. I took Spanish for 4 long years and French for 2. I hated it because I have terrible pronounciation of all the Romance languages, not becuase the classes were boring. In fact, the classes were great! In French, we combined our language studies with studies about France. We also got to make speeches in French about anything we wanted to practice our reading and pronounciation skills. In Spanish, we tried foods from different nations, read books and watched movies in Spanish, essentially making lots of interactions while learning a new language. But now I'm in Japan, where the following example occurs on a daily basis. Me: "Good Morning! How are you? You look cold! Did you ride your bike or walk to school? Also, what is today's date?" Japanese Friend: "ええと。。。わかりません。” (I don't understand) Me: *Writes down everything I had previously said in English and hands paper to the girl.* Friend: “ああ。。。わかります” (proceeds to answer in Japanese.) The point is, that they can in fact understand English, but now in a way that is useful as a foreign language. And this may suprise you but in Japan, they do, in fact, speak, read, and write in Japanese. So back to the original question. How are they ever going to use this? Such a high emphasis is placed on learning English as the second language. But why? When they run into the occasional opportuniy to use English, a piece of paper and pencil will not always be available. To be fair, English teachers try to speak the language when they have some time. But the teachers, much like their students, have a real hard time with English pronounciation. This is because much of the Roman alphabet is non existant in the Japanese alphabets. Students imitate the teachers- mistakes and all in the same manner. Maybe they purposedly planned not to have an English speaking class, after all, there is almost no teacher-student interaction. Students never raise their hands to ask questions or in my specialty, debate a point of view for fear of wasting time and interrupting the lesson. But that's another story. But their is another reason that the system really troubles me. University entrance exams place HUGE sections of their exams of English grammar and reading. Studying the two subjects, though often useless towards the future, is essential to pass the exam and be received at any University in Japan. After that the subjects, most likely providing no benefots toward to student, is simply forgotten. That's why most adults can't remember the material and why a country that forces EVERYONE to learn English has so few truly proficient speakers. When I speak English with teachers, formers exchange students, or just to throw off my friends, girls of all ages gather around to listen. Then they all remark about how they would like nothing more than to be able to understand what I am saying. I'd like nothing more than fr them to be able to understand, too. After all in English speaking you don't have to decide what 'there' is the correct one to use. Now that's something that in my 12 years of English proficientby I have yet to master. Maybe I should pay more attention in English Grammar class. ***For the record the terrible spelling and grammar is a joke!

Week In The Life of a Ko Ichinensee: Boring Friday

February 23, 2007
Friday's are probably the most boring day of the week for me. They are just really long and dull. So when I woke up, still slightly sore, I did my routine with no enthusiasm. At breakfast, I had finally succumbed to the Osaki drink of choice, Milk. It's only my 5th day with them, but I already know that they go throught like 3 cartons a day. Amazing. I left a little early, still tired, and stopped at a Family Mart to buy a Rice/Seaweed ball. I never ever eat breakfast, but I've been excercising a lot lately and I've actually been hungrier. I guess that's a good thing, I was really unhealthy in my last family. I really didn't eat too much at all. I arrived early at the school and headed to the library, where I ate my Tuna Rice ball with a slow enjoying taste. I'm really turning into a Japanese girl. I then thanked god I brought floss. Can imagine walking around all day with a big leaf of Seaweed stuck on your teeth? The horror. What's worse is that the Japanese would NEVER ever tell you that you had a big piece of green thing stuck to your tooth either. God forbid they ever said something that could be taken as an insult. When the bell rang and I was nicely settled into my desk, Yano-sensei was conformed to be absent and a lady took our attendance. I then walked with my friends to Art class, where it was revealed that they are annoyed that I prefer to study or go for a run rather than eat with them. It's odd, they usually just ignore me when I'm there, but when I'm not they get pissed off. Our first class was Art, where we have this weird Scracth picture as our assignment. Japanese girls are obsessed with perfection and most have gorgeous pictures that would blow Van Gough out of the water. I just have a simple and easy cake as my picture, the poor thing never get any compliments. That's fine though, it is pretty bad. By hand got quite a warkout doing all the scratching from the back sand paper thing. When the period ended I hurried back to the library for Japanese with Nishimoto-sensei (not the music teacher, a different one because they all have the same names in Japan.) Japanese is not so much Japanese as it is Intellectual English Conversation. Nishimoto-sensei speaks really great English, and if it's not perfect, then it's damn close. Usually I ask her a questions about Japanese history that springs into a whole class period of exchanging ideas about the time period or particular event. Today, she was particularly interested in my opinion of the Israel/Palestine situation. AFterwards she showed me an extensive book with pictures from Japan as it walked into it's modern state. It's nive to have a class where I can just talk about intellectual things, rather than keeping them bottled up all the time. 3rd and 4th period found me stuck back in the homeroom class. It's weird not I'm complaining about being in the homeroom, when back in September thru December I only wanted to be with them more. Things have changed. My real friends aren't in the homeroom, but in my Koto club. In the homeroom I spent Computer Science and World History writing the journal entires for Wednesday thru Friday, while my classmates glued their noses to books for the upcoming test in 2 weeks time. At lunch, I actually ate a full period with my classmates. Like I suspected, I was essentially ignored even though I tried my very hardest to get into their conversation. All the girls did was play on their cell phones and gossip. I went to the bathroom and met up with Chiake, which was a real relief. She had me laughing and happy within 30 seconds of talking to her. I'd rather be eating with her, but Japanese school culture means that you HAVE to eat with your homeroom, or they will ignore you during the day. Usually I prefer the library or the staircase for running, which is always more eventful and I can more done. I hope I don't sound like a horrible person, but I reckon next month's change of homeroom with come as quite a relief. Usually the 5th period class is English, but Since Yano-sensei is absent, we have another art class. Yuck. At though in extra time I was able to finish the stupid scratch project. Last period of the day I have library Self Study, and I really throw myself into my writing. I ought to be studying but I really got to finish this project. School ending comes at a pure and utter relief for me. Especially since I have Koto today. In the Koto room I hang out with Chiake, Yuki, Yukimi, Casami, and Aya as we wait for the private sensei to arrive. Yukimi gave me a box of cookies for valentines day as a thank you for the box of Sweet Hearts I gave her. When the teacher arrives, I start working on the numbers of practice that I couldn't quite get on Tuesday. I only got about a 20 minute practice because the teacher believed me to be suffering from leg pains because it is physically impossible for gaijin to sit in Japanese saza position. That wasn't the case, and Chiake told me that everyone thinks the teacher is a bit looney. So I practice by myself until the club is finished. Then I assist my fell Ko Ichinensee in cleaning the club room. The girls invite me to go Hanami with them over Spring Break. Hanami is...well... don't laugh... flower watching of Sakura. At 6, Chiake and I are on our way home. I tell her all about my homeroom and she tells me that I am in an A class, which is the really smarter girls of the Ko Ichinensee class. They are also a tighter knit group and tend to act a little better than everyone else. We made a pact to try to get into the same classes next year, though I'm not sure that's possible. Hopefully I get movied into a B class with the dummies! Once again Koto club is the best thing to happen to me all day. I ask CHiake to show me her house and we peddle off the road into the more quieter country areas. I met her father and mother who told me that I was welcome to come over any time. I also met Yusu, her loveable little pooch who slobbered all over my hand. When we parted, I said good night and felt disappointed that I would have to wait 2 weeks for the next club because of testing. Back at the Osaki house, dinner was Curry Rice. The best way for me to fully describe how things are in the Osaki house is when Hikari spilled a large portion of her Curry on her lap. My host mom looked up, smiled, and said "Well it's edible." I love this family.

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