Piczo

Obiyamachi Matsuri

In the middle of Kochi City, there is a huge arcade type shopping mall called, "Obiyamachi." I have talked about it before because it has been in alot of my adventures here in Kochi. The large arcade is a walking strip filled with everything you can imagine. Clothes stores, books stores, food, a department store, various shoe places, and much much more. The thing about Obiyamachi is that it's a very centralized place, in that it sort of makes the heart of Kochi City. That being said, on Saturdays in the month of July and once in August, the large shopping center hosts a few Matsuri's. A Matsuri is, in English, something like a festival. Japanese matsuri are chiefly of sacred origin, related, at least originally, to the cultivation of rice and the spiritual well-being of local communities. By the Heian period these native festivals had been supplemented by the various rites and ceremonies. These various new rites, both sacred and profane, had been imported from China along with Buddhism and Confucianism. In the course of the centuries these observances have thus undergone considerable change, many old practices being cast off and new ones added – political, religious, agricultural and commercial. There has also arisen a new variety of matsuri, such as the Obiyamachi Doichi Noichi Matsuri. A matsuri is basically a symbolic act whereby participants enter a state of active communication with the gods. It is accompanied by communion among the participants in the form of feast and festival. The latter are sometimes large festivals that attract audiences from outside the community. And with the introduction to Japan of foreign beliefs such as Buddhism and Taoism, and the establishment of types of Shinto influenced by these foreign beliefs, the matsuri turned to new purposes. As the years passed, matsuri in a broad sense came to include festivals in which the playful element and commercial interests all but obliterated the original sacramental context. The matsuri has two major aspects. The first is communion between gods and people. This comprises purificatory rites, offerings and communal banquets between gods and humans. This first aspect may be termed a religious rite. This is the reason why most people come out for a Matsuri, but it is certainly not the reason why they stay out at one. The second aspect of matsuri is communion among people. Many Japanese festivals feature a parade of Mikoshi, or portable shrines, and contests or games that give opportunities for community members to play together and match skills. The regulations of everyday life are relaxed and the atmosphere is one of spiritual renewal. One can always find in the vicinity of a matsuri booths selling souvenirs and food such as takoyaki, tempura, Yaki Soba, Ice Cream, and much more, and games, such as snatching goldfish with paper wands. Karaoke contests, sumo matches, and other forms of entertainment are often organized in conjunction with matsuri. But, perhaps, the most exciting part is that everyone dresses up in Yakata and celebrates with beautiful clothes. The Obiyamachi Matsuri, like all Matsuri's, reflects a little bit on the people living in the area. It is not a huge Matsuri dedicated to the God's, but instead one dedicatd to the enjoyment of the people. Thus, on my last day of school, I finalized plans with Usami, Chika, Asaka, Aya, and whoever was able to make it to Matsuri for hanging out. It was agreed we would all meet at 5, so prior to that time, I put on my best Yukata, or summer Kimono. It was the first time I did it all by myself. My host Mother and sister came home early and flourished me in compliments about how skilled I am in being able to do it all by myself. Kind of like a little kid when they first use the 'big potty.' They then preceded to pull it off and correct every little bend and mistake, though all the while ensuring me that I had done a good job. I had planned on taking the bus to Obiyamachi, but my host father insisted we drive. He and Michiyo dropped me off 20 minutes earlier than the agreed meeting time. So I waited and received more stares in 20 minutes than I have had in my entire time here in Japan. It is said that Japanese men love woman in Yukata or Kimono. Mostly this just means that woman can't walk Yukata-clad in an area with a lot of bars. But it also means that you should never be alone in Yukata. As for me? Well once the Japanese men saw that I was their height and not part of their species, they certainly did not want anything to do with me. But that didn't stop them from staring. Alot. On the cell phone email, I discovered that addition to my long wait, my friends were going to be late. But I got lucky, because almost as soon as this happened, CHiake, Yukimi, and Taco departed Tosajoshi and were heading my way. They had just finished club, and wanted to see the fancy dressed girl in the Matsuri. They looked at me, but had no idea they were looking at their best Gaijin friend. Until I said, "Hey idiots! It's Julie." I thought Chiake was going to fall off her bike, while Taco gasped at me. Yukimi was the only one who came running up to me and giving me a huge hug while exclaiming how beautiful I look. I hung out with the 3, until we were met up by Ri-chan, who was returning home from extra classes. Though Chiake and Taco had to get home early, Ri-chan, Yukimi, and I walked throughout the mall together. I was disappointed because there were so few movable stores to buy things and play games. We went to the cell phone company booth, and met up with a large group of Tosajoshi girls, who nearly fainted at the sight of me. It was horrible. They then preceded to whip out their cell phones and take hundreds of pictures of me. I'm beginning to think that if I start charging people to take my picture, I might return to America and be able to New Jersey. Around this time, Usami emailed me and told me that she had arrived. Ri-chan, Yukimi, and I set off to meet her. I was so relieved to see her in Yukata, so that I wouldn't be the only person to dress up like this way. The 4 of us decided to get a Purikura before the rest of the group would meet up with us. When we were finished, Aya, Chika, and Asako seemed to come out of nowhere. Chika was dressed in a casual boyish Yukata, while the other two were in regular street clothes. Usami and I felt so stupid, but no one could deny that we looked absolutely gorgeous. Even though o most Matsuri's, one is supposed to dress in Yukata, Obiyamachi contained very few Yukata-clad girls. So Usami and I got alot of attention. I should probably tell the truth, though. It was I who got all the attention. Since there are so few gaijin in Kochi as it is, and seeing one dressed in Yukata is extremely rare, and probably never happened during this year. Little kids would see me and drop their ice cream comes while screaming for their Mom to look. Old woman on their bikes would ride by, see me, and then send their bikes into a dangerous braking to get a better look. School girls harassed me with that word, Kawaii. While school boys stared at me like I was Santa Clause at a Bar Mitzfah. The staring doesn't usually bother me too much, but tonight, it was horrible! The first thing we did was get food at the Central park. Everyone ordered large Steak on a Stick, Yaki-Soba, or Corn Dogs. I wasn't in the mood for hot foods, and decided to wait till we ran into something cold. Sure enough, as a rule with Japanese students, we paid a trip to McDonald's. I got a small Strawberry McFlurry to eat, while we walked throughout the mall. There really wasn't anything to do, so we sat down and in the central park and talked for what felt like hours. It's sad to think that I finally get to the point where I can understand almost everything they understand, and I have to leave in a few days time. We were all thinking about August 13th, even if only subconsciously. Even the meantime, the girls got more and more food, while I watched and wondered why the Japanese are so thin. I then took out the Beast, my camera, and snapped a bunch of shots. The air was cool and smelled of roasting Yaki Soba, while I laughed and enjoyed the final days of the best year of my life in the presence of friends. A dance contest had begun, and Chika, Aya, and Asako went off to watch it. Usami, Yukimi, and I went to check out the times for the bus back to Mama, my host town. Usami and I would be taking the bus back together, much to the relief of both of our parents. The 3 of us strolled through Kochi City, harrassing some stupid Japanese boys who were afraid to talk to two Yukata-clad girls. Back at the park, we watched as one of the upcoming Yosakoi teams eagerly showed us their dance, which blew my team right out of the water. Then the group headed to a large arcade close to the exit. Chika had one some free money prizes, and we all decided to spend what she had. One of the new popular games here in Japan, is where you have to throw balls at the glass and make things happen. Like you have to throw balls and knock the bugs out of the way for the elephant to climb up the tree. Okay so I know that doesn't sound very interesting, but it came from the same country of DDR, Karaoke, and Purikura, so trust me, it's awesome. The 6 girls all played the game, and beasted at it. But it doesn't suprise me because I know how Japanese girls get when they get competitive. Even though the 6 of us, 2 girls in Yukata, 2 fatties, and 2 shorties, did not look like we could even turn the game on so much as win, we ended up dominating. Random people came up just to watch us, and then make remarks like, "Yep those are Tosajoshi girls." At 9, Usami and I had to get going to the bus stop. I would have liked to stay out for another hour, but it was the last bus of the night. Saying goodbye is getting really hard, because one never knows if it is the last time. But with these crazy girl, I really don't think it is. We all exchanged emails and are planning on meeting up again really soon.

Kagami Matsuri Night 1

On Saturday, after what felt like the hottest day I had ever lived through in my entire 16 years of life, my host Mom decided to take me to the Kagami Matsuri. The Matsuri, Japanese for festival, used to be an enormous exciting time with 100's of stalls, good fun, and nostalgia for all Kochi residents. The story spreads out till right after the ending of the war. Alas, about 15 years ago, the festival ran out of money. With no money in the bank, about 5 years passed in which the festival did not occur. With no Kagami Gawa Matsuri, people began to take more of an interest in Yosakoi. Even though Yosakoi had been around since 1954, it used to be all about fun and dancing. But when the people lost their July Matsuri, they began to put all their efforts into Yosakoi. Now Yosakoi is a gruelling dancing competition. But about 3 years ago, with a large amount of sponsorship from outside Kochi companies, the festival was able to make a comeback. The stalls are about of what they used to be in size and items. But a Matsuri is a Matsuri no matter how many stalls come or don't come. When Katou Okasan asked me if I would like to attend to Matsuri, I was more than happy to do so. THe previous week I went to the Obiyamachi Saturday festival with all of my friends. It was such fun, and the Kagami Gawa Matsuri promised to be even better. However, she wanted me to wear my Yukata. I love my Yukata with all of my heart, and I would wear on any occasion. But just breathing made me break out in sweat on this day, so I begged her not to make me wear it. SHe understood the situation, and he trekked off after a Soumen dinner to the middle of Kochi City. Our first stop was an old run down building and headquarters to Otoson's School friend. The friend was running for a member in the Japanese House of Representatives. Otosan was serving as the man's Campaign manager. Tonight was the last night for campaigning, and since the Matsuri was going on, all the competitiors were out and about ushering voters to attend their speeches. Otosan was speaking, and we watched his give a warm greeting and thanks to the people for their support. When he was all finished, Okasan and I headed off in the direction of bright lights, Yukata-claded girls, and the frag rants of Okonomiacki sauce. Now I have been to a Matsuri before, and I mean a true one. The Okiyamachi Matsuri is too small to be consodered a true one. I went last summer, yet my memory of that Matsuri did nothing to stop the shock I was feeling. The only think I can really think of that resembles a Japanese Matsuri, even though inly a very little bit, is an American carnival. Matsuri's are full of people, mostly dressed in traditional Yukata and are absolutely stunning. There are thousands of lights, all in different shades of reds, yellows, and oranges. Unknown frangrants waft through the air, some resemble Okonomiacki sauce, while others Squid frying in the distance, and even the smell of Ketchup and Mayonnaise. COme to think of it, there is no set smell, because every time you turn your head something news hits you. What seems like thousands of tiny stalls selling everything a Japanese heart could desire light the way. Okonomiacki, Takoyaki, Ikayaki, Tamagoyaki, Yakisoba, Hashimaki, Hamburg, French Fries, American Frank's, Tempura, Eel, Onigiri, Taiyaki, Osakayaki, Fried Sweet Potatoes, Corn on the Cob, Candied Apples, Cotton Candy, Crepes, Ice Cream, Sherbert, Snow Cones, Candied Strawberries and Banana's, Manjuu's, Anco filled Ice, and everything else a Japanese person could ever hope to find. The stalls are small, but each has a person taking orders and money, while another one is behind a large stove frying or preparing the food. What I quickly realized with this particular Matsuri is that, the only thing to do, besides listening to the band, was eat. And eating was what people were doing. I tell you, I have never seen so much food being consumed in one place in one time. I watched as one particular group of girls sat at a table, each girl had a plate of Yakisoba, as well as 2 sticks of Hashimaki. Then they each had their own box of either Tamagoyaki or Takoyaki. I honestly don't think I have eaten that much in my life. But all aside, I was loving every moment of this festival exploration. Shoulder to shoulder with Okasan, we walked along the brilliantly lit stalls pondering over everything. I also began to regret my decision to not wear a Yukata. It seemed like everyone of the girls was dressed in a beautiful clothes outfit, while I was dressed in a jean skirt and yellow top. As we walked along, girls from Tosajoshi began to notice me. I think I got well over a thousand greetings from people that I somewhat recognized. Ever since my speech, I've become even more famous than usual. Now they all are aware that I can speak Japanese, and aren't afraid to wave to me and ask me how my night is going. Okasan managed to chuckle at everyone, and make a remark about how I am probably more popular than all 4 of her kids combined. When we made our way all the way down one side of the festival, we stopped to listen as one band played some traditional tunes. Okasan asked me what I wanted to eat. I didn;t want anything, but I saw that I was the only not gorging out on some food, wearing a Yukata, and gorging out on even more food. I asked Okasan what she wanted, since she was much more experienced in the art of Matsuri than I was. She wanted Ika Yaki. For all those who are Japanese impaired, Ika is Squid, while Yaki is Cooked. Basically she ordered two long and large sticks, covered in thick white meat. Squid Tentacles. The Tentacles had just been smothered in a salty flavoring sauce, and then thrown on the grill to roast. Like all Squid, it was a bit too chewy. But other than that I could not have been happier. Seeing how thirsty the Swuid was going to make us, Okasan decided we ought to buy some drinks. Since she bought me the Squid, I insisted on purchasing the drinks. I ordered two extra larges, which were twice the size of the McDonald's Super Size, in Tea. We took our Squid Sticks to the place around the stage, where and a small time band was playing some old time Japanese music. There was excitement in the air, dancing, and all around freedom from work. It was summer vacation, and at that moment in time, chewing away at a Salty piece of squid, laughing at some toddler dancers with my host mother, and feeling a slight breeze blowing off the side of the Kagami Gawa river, I had a moment. My exchange is coming to an end, there is no way getting around this fact. But you know? When I have these moments, when life seems to be absolutely perfect, that it almost seems to good to be true, and that no way could it possibly get any better, I think that coming here was the best decision I ever made in my lifetime. And I don't think I'm wrong about that.

Kagami Gawa Matsuri Night 2

The night before, I attended the Kagami Gawa Matsuri, and had an amazing time. I was with my host mom, a lovely woman, with whom I have become incredibly close to. Everything seemed almost perfect. When I found out that it existed for another night, I knew I had to go. Last week when I went to the Oboyamachi Matsuri, I ran into Chiake. She couldn't stay but she texted me later saying that the next Matsuri we should go together. I remembered this when I emailed her and asked if she wanted to go along with me to the Kagami Gawa Matsuri. Even though she had Koto practice from 8 in the morning till 6 at night, she agreed to meet me at Hirome, and head to the festival. I had planned on wearing the Yukata, because the night previously I appeared to be the only one not wearing a Yukata. However Chiake would be wearing her school uniform, and I didn't want her to feel left out. So at 5:45, I departed the Katou house and headed for Hirome. I met Chiake at about 6:10. We crossed the main street together catching up. She told me all about her day's major practice. Since the team is actually heading to Shimane-ken on Tuesday for the All-Japan Koto tournament, she was nervous. They had only 10 minutes on the stage to perform a brilliantly difficult piece, in which they have been practicing for for over 7 months. They have practiced occasionally, but since the start of the summer, they have been playing on the one song. So from 8 in the morning till 6 at night everyday, the Hugh school members of the club gather around and practice the one piece. I tried ti imagine myself doing the same thing. No way. I felt kind of bad telling her what I did. She was curious, and it seemed like she wanted to hear me say something like, "Save the entire continent of Africa," so that she and I could have had equally interesting days. Instead she listened as I told her I strolled the Kochi Famous Sunday market and took lots of pictures. I think I heard her even snort. When we made it to the front of Mos Burger, I dropped off my bike, and together we followed a mass of Yukata-clad girls in the direction of bright lights and loud noises. It was on 6:30, and already there were more people than the previous night. Walking along the narrow road was uncomfortable even, and I kept banging elbows with random people. Chiake also has a an annoying habit of walking, so that when I move an inch, she does as well. Her bag must have smacked my shoulder at least 30 times a minutes. Nevertheless, we kept moving, keeping an eye out for teachers. Chiake was in her uniform, and if spotted, she would be suspended from school. We didn;t see any and we kept on going. When we made it into the festival, the forst thing Chiake did was ask me what I wanted to eat. I told her I didn't care, and we walked arm in arm along the stalls. I just stared and admired the mights and atmosphere of the festival. For me, it's just too much of an experience not to stare and get absorbed in everything. CHiake wanted to eat Karage, which is like fried chicken. I told her I was leaving Japan in 2 weeks and could eat fried Chicken at home. Then she wanted French Fries, I told her I was getting something else. I wanted to try something I had never tried before, and I spied one stall selling Hashimaki. The stall workers were mixing up a batter that looked much like an Okonomiacki mix. Then they were spilling on the hot plate to where it cooked. I thought it was okonomiacki until the men rolled it up onto a pair pf chopsticks, then sprinkled it with Seaweed, Cheese, and Dried fish. I waited in line, wanting to try it more than ever. CHiake even waited with me, because she suddenly changed her mind about the French Fries. As we waited, a weird old man approached us, seeing that we were speaking Japanese. He was drunk, and he demanded to know where I learned the language in English. I pretended to ignore him, until he asked me in Japanese. Then he demanded I practice English with him, which I knew would cause a scene. I ignored him, until he asked me where I came from. I told him France, and Chiake snorted. He sauntered away seemingly embarrassed. We both got one stick. What I liked best was that CHiake stood back and let me order. Alot of the time, the people I am with, even though they I can speak the language, try to make sure that the clerks understand before I attempt in Japanese. When we both got our food, Chaike was on the lookout for a place to sit and eat. We crawled through some of the stands and found a spot next to the river. Then we opened out packages, and, in a very un-Japanese girl way, we inhaled the Hashimaki. Actually we had a race to see who could eat the fastest. CHiake won, of course, because I don't do well with hot foods on the tongue. We wanted to sit and enjoy the company, but our seat was right behind a stall making a Yaki Soba, and lots of lots of noise. Plus a family with small kids was looking for a place to sit, so we got up quickly and reentered the festival. EVen though I was with my best friend, the night was cool, and I was eating some of my favorite foods, the magic of the festival had worn off. It was too crowded to be enjoyed in the fullness I had last night. But Chiake was still hungry, and she insisted on getting a Crepe. Together we orderd two Strawberries filled to the brim with whip cream. We found another spot by the river. I have never had the pleasure of eating with someone like Chiake and that is saying something. My sister can't eat chocolate ice cream without spilling on her shirts, but CHiake could eat a Crepe, which a food with a covering, without spilled nearly everything on her school skirt. The only one she own. She ended up eating most of my crepe, because hers was on her lap. When we were finished we walked around the festival some more. We ran into all sorts of Tosajoshi girls, but luckily no teachers. Chiake kept telling me that it was unfair that I was so popular. She said she should get some credit for being my best friend, and then burst into laughter. That's just the kind of stuff she and I say to each other for fun. At about 7:30, CHiake's father called. He was just outside the festival and ready to take her home. I wanted to stay a little but longer, which cause her to worry. She told me that every time she was with me, weird people came up to talk to us and this caused her to worry whether I could be okay alone. I laughed at her and told her nobody messes with scary Gaijin. I walked her to her car, and then headed back to the festival. I only stayed for a few minutes before deciding to head back. Before I said goodbye, I gave her a big hug and wished her all the best of luck in her compeition. I told her I wish I could go, but I can't. Instead I hoped that she would win, or at least get 2nd. It was the first time I ever gave her a hug, and alot of people stared at us. I was suprised, in that CHaike didn't even flinch. Upon returning to the festival, I bought some Tamago Yaki, but didn't really like it. I wanted to take pictures and play some games, but the crowds were just too great. It was still a great experience, and I love Japanese Matsuri, but it wasn't the magic I felt like the night before.