Around and About Kyoto
April 3, 2007
After the morning spent becoming Kyoto Maiko, Mom and Nana were really tired. Right outside the Maiko shop, the 3 of us went to the bank to exchange Traveler's checks, since nowhere in Kyoto actually takes them. Afterwards Nana and Mom planned on hitting the McDonalds, which I had no intent on doing. While Mom haggled with the bank man, I said my goodbyes with only a map and a few Yen. Immediately outside the bank, I knocked on the window of a moving cab. The driver took one look at me, smiled and opened the door. I told him in Japanese to take me to the Ninnaji temple complex, and he was immediately impressed that I spoke Japanese. The 15 minute ride was filled with Japanese jokes and my talking about my life in Japan. It was quite a relief for me to be back with the Japanese I have come to know and love, the friendly, cheery, and kind people back in Kochi. Because after yesterday's incident with the other cab driver who refused to drive us because we were foreign, I had begun to forget. When I told the driver I was 16, he nearly wet himself. For one he could not believe that a tall, Japanese speaking, mature looking girl could be only 16. He also couldn't believe I was going out alone. But I told I didn't really give my Mom much of a choice, and he laughed alot. He was such a nice man, and he reminded me alot of my first host father, Mr. Masaki. When we pulled up to the Ninnaji complex, the driver gave me a few Yen off the cost, so that it was an equal 2000 yen. He also got out of the cab and showed me around the entrance, giving me some interesting facts on the complex. Sometimes I don't think people understand why I could love a place like Japan. And in many ways, it is strange beyond words, but then I meet people like my first and third host families, Koto friends, and random Kyoto taxi drivers, and I don't understand how anyone could not love Japan. The driver couldn't stay long because he was off duty soon, though he would have given me a whole tour of the area if I asked him to. I was then on my own, far from the hotel, and in an area I knew little about except for a bus schedule map, which was given to me by the Maiko shop owners. I wasn't worried in the least, but thrilled by the independence. So I walked through the second gates and entered the Ninna-ji complex. I was first struck by these huge statue monster things that greeted me at the entrance. Kongorikishi (Ungyo) is the left side guard at Ninnaji Temple's main gate. I don't know if it's really a protector, but it would certainly scare little kids away. Ninna-ji is a large Omura-ha Shingon Buddhist temple complex in eastern Kyoto, founded in 888 by the retired Emperor Uda. From 888 to 1869 it was traditional for reigning Emperors to send a son to the temple to take over as head priest when a vacancy arose. But like everything else in Kyoto, fires ravaged the building from time to time. Most of today's buildings in the complex date from the 17th century, and include a five-story pagoda and a plantation of dwarf cherry trees. The temple itself features some beautifully painted screen walls, and a beautiful walled garden. In front of the pagoda I took the obligatory peace shot, followed by some pictures of myself. They didn't come out very good, because I still had paint all over the sides of my face from the Maiko costumes. After I explored most of the temple grounds, I left the complex and followed the giant tour buses heading for Ryoan-ji. It was a long walk up the hill, and when I arrived, there were huge tour groups massing at the gates. But it didn't matter once I got inside. After a brief walk through the garden, I headed for main attraction. You have to be truly into it, to understand the beauty of Ryoan-ji. To many, the temple's name is synonymous with the temple's famous karesansui, rock garden, thought to have been built in the late 1400s. The garden consists of raked gravel and fifteen moss-covered boulders, which are placed so that, when looking at the garden from any angle, only fourteen of the boulders are visible at one time. It is traditionally said that only through attaining enlightenment would one be able to view the fifteenth boulder. Well, I can't say I saw that 15th boulder. The longer you stare at it, the more your imagination runs wild. That is a description, but to understand its effect, and its purity, you have to go there. The design generates tension, drawing the viewer to contemplate the mystery of Zen. It can't be photographed in entirety, the dimensions could drive any photographer to distraction, but thats the beauty of it. All you can do is just put the camera away, sit down and contemplate it. Especially when you realize that no matter where you sit, you will only see 14 of the rocks at any one time. The longer you sit, the more the garden fascinates. The branches of the trees beyond the earthen wall with its peculiar but natural designs are "borrowed scenery" - they bend and straighten, they cast fantastic shadows with the moss that fills the pocks and spaces in the rocks. The raked lines are circles around the rock groups and yet straight elsewhere - and you will love how the lines stop without a single misplaced pebble when they touch the circular patterns, and then resume unchanged beyond them as if the rocks are islands. It changes with the seasons - cherry trees beyond the wall blooming in spring, snow clinging to the moss in the winter. It is never the same twice. And although the rocks do not move, there is something about those spaces between the rocks. Good lord, Zen drives people mad! After my enlightening experience, I filed out of the building and met an Australian couple from Brisbane. I told them about my exchange, and they invited me for some Green Tea with them. I can now officially say I have another couch to sleep on when I return to Australia! Departing the complex, I took the very long walk to Kinkakuji. When I arrived, the tour buses seemed to be leaving, and the complex had suddenyl become pretty quiet. Inside, I witnessed the golden splendor of the GoldPavillion. Kinkakuji is noteworthy for its rather magnificent Kinkaku or Golden Pavilion in its golden splendor, and the pond on which it sits surrounds it in a very tranquil setting. Kinkakuji's official name is actually Rokuonji. But the Golden Pavilion has given the temple the more popular name of Kinkaku-ji. It was constructed in the 12th century as a new residence for shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu upon retirement. When he passed away, it was converted into a Zen temple. The Golden Pavilion houses several sacred relics of the Buddha and is covered in real gold. The present building dates from 1955, because a fire, set by a crazy monk, destroyed the original building in 1950. Most people I talk to either love or hate the temple. They love it because of of it's beauty, or hate it because of it's crowd and being overrated. My opinion was somewhere in the middle. I think for a first timer to Kyoto, the structure is a must-see. It is really beautiful, but for how crowded the place was, and that's even after the main tour buses had left, it was somewhat unworth it. I pretty much had to fight through a mass of people for a few clear shots. But I'm glad I did it. I wanted to explore the area around the Pavillion, but it was too crowded. Instead I headed for the exit and and hailed a cab. I would have asked him to take me directly back to the hotel, but I was feeling cheap, so I settled for halfway. The driver, not as friendly as the man from the morning, dropped my off at the west exit of the former Imperial Goshi, or palace. Kyoto Imperial Palace used to be the residence of Japan's Imperial Family until 1868, when the emperor and capital were moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. It is located in the spacious Kyoto Imperial Park. The palace burnt down and was moved around the city several times over the centuries. The present reconstruction dates from 1855. The palace complex is enclosed by a long wall and consists of several gates, halls and gardens. It was weird for me to see some college kids throwing a Frisbee in land that used to belong to the sacred Imperial family. The Gion district is across the river from the main downtown. It's a beautiful well-preserved area which has kept the same atmosphere for a long time. There are numerous temples in that small area and the many stoned paved roads lined up with tiny inns, restaurants and shops. Although it's supposed to be the Geisha district, we didn't see any that night. Pontocho-dori is a narrow little lane east of Kawaramachi-dori and west of the Kamo river. The lane is hemmed in by restaurants and craft shops. It is particularly atmospheric at night when the eateries have red lanterns outside their doors. Unfortunately, our experience in Pontocho was not a good one. Located in a beautiful part of Higashiyama Ward, Kodaiji sits atop a slight hill. It was established in 1605 by the legendary Nene, the wife of the late Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and financed by Tokugawa Ieyasu. Much of the complex was destroyed in 1789 by fire. Mom and I visited it at nighttime. Within the temple grounds, there is a bamboo grove that lights up spectacularly at night Back To Julie in Japanland... Around and About Kyoto April 3, 2007After the morning spent becoming Kyoto Maiko, Mom and Nana were really tired. Right outside the Maiko shop, the 3 of us went to the bank to exchange Traveler's checks, since nowhere in Kyoto actually takes them. Afterwards Nana and Mom planned on hitting the McDonalds, which I had no intent on doing. While Mom haggled with the bank man, I said my goodbyes with only a map and a few Yen. Immediately outside the bank, I knocked on the window of a moving cab. The driver took one look at me, smiled and opened the door. I told him in Japanese to take me to the Ninnaji temple complex, and he was immediately impressed that I spoke Japanese. The 15 minute ride was filled with Japanese jokes and my talking about my life in Japan. It was quite a relief for me to be back with the Japanese I have come to know and love, the friendly, cheery, and kind people back in Kochi. Because after yesterday's incident with the other cab driver who refused to drive us because we were foreign, I had begun to forget. When I told the driver I was 16, he nearly wet himself. For one he could not believe that a tall, Japanese speaking, mature looking girl could be only 16. He also couldn't believe I was going out alone. But I told I didn't really give my Mom much of a choice, and he laughed alot. He was such a nice man, and he reminded me alot of my first host father, Mr. Masaki. When we pulled up to the Ninnaji complex, the driver gave me a few Yen off the cost, so that it was an equal 2000 yen. He also got out of the cab and showed me around the entrance, giving me some interesting facts on the complex. Sometimes I don't think people understand why I could love a place like Japan. And in many ways, it is strange beyond words, but then I meet people like my first and third host families, Koto friends, and random Kyoto taxi drivers, and I don't understand how anyone could not love Japan. The driver couldn't stay long because he was off duty soon, though he would have given me a whole tour of the area if I asked him to. I was then on my own, far from the hotel, and in an area I knew little about except for a bus schedule map, which was given to me by the Maiko shop owners. I wasn't worried in the least, but thrilled by the independence. So I walked through the second gates and entered the Ninna-ji complex. I was first struck by these huge statue monster things that greeted me at the entrance. Kongorikishi (Ungyo) is the left side guard at Ninnaji Temple's main gate. I don't know if it's really a protector, but it would certainly scare little kids away. Ninna-ji is a large Omura-ha Shingon Buddhist temple complex in eastern Kyoto, founded in 888 by the retired Emperor Uda. From 888 to 1869 it was traditional for reigning Emperors to send a son to the temple to take over as head priest when a vacancy arose. But like everything else in Kyoto, fires ravaged the building from time to time. Most of today's buildings in the complex date from the 17th century, and include a five-story pagoda and a plantation of dwarf cherry trees. The temple itself features some beautifully painted screen walls, and a beautiful walled garden. In front of the pagoda I took the obligatory peace shot, followed by some pictures of myself. They didn't come out very good, because I still had paint all over the sides of my face from the Maiko costumes. After I explored most of the temple grounds, I left the complex and followed the giant tour buses heading for Ryoan-ji. It was a long walk up the hill, and when I arrived, there were huge tour groups massing at the gates. But it didn't matter once I got inside. After a brief walk through the garden, I headed for main attraction. You have to be truly into it, to understand the beauty of Ryoan-ji. To many, the temple's name is synonymous with the temple's famous karesansui, rock garden, thought to have been built in the late 1400s. The garden consists of raked gravel and fifteen moss-covered boulders, which are placed so that, when looking at the garden from any angle, only fourteen of the boulders are visible at one time. It is traditionally said that only through attaining enlightenment would one be able to view the fifteenth boulder. Well, I can't say I saw that 15th boulder. The longer you stare at it, the more your imagination runs wild. That is a description, but to understand its effect, and its purity, you have to go there. The design generates tension, drawing the viewer to contemplate the mystery of Zen. It can't be photographed in entirety, the dimensions could drive any photographer to distraction, but thats the beauty of it. All you can do is just put the camera away, sit down and contemplate it. Especially when you realize that no matter where you sit, you will only see 14 of the rocks at any one time. The longer you sit, the more the garden fascinates. The branches of the trees beyond the earthen wall with its peculiar but natural designs are "borrowed scenery" - they bend and straighten, they cast fantastic shadows with the moss that fills the pocks and spaces in the rocks. The raked lines are circles around the rock groups and yet straight elsewhere - and you will love how the lines stop without a single misplaced pebble when they touch the circular patterns, and then resume unchanged beyond them as if the rocks are islands. It changes with the seasons - cherry trees beyond the wall blooming in spring, snow clinging to the moss in the winter. It is never the same twice. And although the rocks do not move, there is something about those spaces between the rocks. Good lord, Zen drives people mad! After my Zen enlightnment, I followed a Aussie Old people tour to the exit. I met an elderly couple from Brisbane, who invited me for Tea. I told themabout my exchange, and how one of my dearest friends in the world is from Townsville. They got a kick out of the fact that I had been to Brisbane before, but only saw the giant mall. When Tea was finished, I had another couch to sleep on for when I return to Australia. I think I'm going to make that my life goal, have a couch in every country. haha. Back on my own, I decided to follow to LONG uphill path to the world famous Kinkakuji. Along the way I passed through touristy areas and college apartments. The road became narrow and filled with people speaking many different languages. I finally arrived at the gates of the famous Golden Pavillion and entered with the huge masses of people. Kinkakuji is noteworthy for its rather magnificent Kinkaku or Golden Pavilion in its golden splendor, and the pond on which it sits surrounds it in a very tranquil setting. Kinkakuji's official name is actually Rokuonji. But the Golden Pavilion has given the temple the more popular name of Kinkaku-ji. It was constructed in the 12th century as a new residence for shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu upon retirement. When he passed away, it was converted into a Zen temple. The Golden Pavilion houses several sacred relics of the Buddha and is covered in real gold. The present building dates from 1955, because a fire, set by a crazy monk, destroyed the original building in 1950. For all the people who have talked about the Golden Pavillion with me, I have noted that it is either loved ot hated. Hated because it is overrated and crowded with toursts. This is true, and I virtually had to push through the crowds to get the few pictures I have below. Loved because no matter how crowded, the temple is truly stunning with it shimmering golden reflection in the pond. My opinion is somewhere in the middle. For a first timer to Kyoto, the temple is a must. All in all, I was glad that I saw it. After I simply toured the grounds, fighting through the heavy crowds on every step, I made my way for the exit, stopping only to get my fortune in English. I was lucky it actually said, "You should be traveling, as it is your lucky time time to experience something new." Almost made me want to believe the little bugger. At the exit, I hailed a cab, and decided I didn't want to pay that much money for a ride back to the hotel. The driver wasn't quite as friendly, so I settled for halfway, the Imperial Gosho, or former Palace of the Imperial family. You actually need to plan ahead and get a reservation to tour the palace. Back in February, when I briefly contemplated exploring it, I decided against it. And I didn't regret my decision, it was better to just walk along it's outer walls. Kyoto Imperial Palace used to be the residence of Japan's Imperial Family until 1868, when the emperor and capital were moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. It is located in the spacious Kyoto Imperial Park. The palace burnt down and was moved around the city several times over the centuries. The present reconstruction dates from 1855. The palace complex is enclosed by a long wall and consists of several gates, halls and gardens. It was weird for me to see some college kids throwing a Frisbee in land that used to belong to the sacred Imperial family. But times really have changed I guess. The stroll along side the Sakura was very nice, but as i reached the main exit, I began to wonder just how I was going to get back. The walk was much too far, and I was too cheap to pay for a cab. But that's when I discovered that I could in fact read the Kanji on the bus schedules. And I, Julie Garner, a girl who was once intimidated by the direct New York City bus, got on headed for a place that I prayed was close to the hotel. And my prayers came true (thank god!) I reached the stop, and had a bried walk along side the Canal, Heian-Jingu, and Sakura trees. Hungry, I stopped for a late lunch of Korean pickles, called Kimuchi, then returned to the hotel. Inside the room, I woke up my sleeping Mother and Nana and bugged them to get ready. They had promised that if they caught up on some sleep, they would be able to do some nighttime temple touring. We left the hotel at around 5, headed for a place I had only heard about in Myth's, Gion's Pontocho street. The walk brought us alongside a cushing river, under the Pink flowers of the Sakura, and into the crowded Gion district filled with tourists hoping to spot a Maiko or Geisha scurrying to an appointment. Darkness settled in on Kyoto, and soon the streets were lit up and bright, filled with faces from around the world. We headed down the green and white Sanjo-street, over a lit up bridge, all the while taking the the gorgeous lights from the shops. The Gion district is across the river from the main downtown. It's a beautiful well-preserved area which has kept the same atmosphere for a long time. There are numerous temples in that small area and the many stoned paved roads lined up with tiny inns, restaurants and shops. Although it's supposed to be the Geisha district, we didn't see any that night. Pontocho-dori is a narrow little lane east of Kawaramachi-dori and west of the Kamo river. The lane is hemmed in by restaurants and craft shops. It is particularly atmospheric at night when the eateries have red lanterns outside their doors. Unfortunately, our experience in Pontocho was not a good one. Located in a beautiful part of Higashiyama Ward, Kodaiji sits atop a slight hill. It was established in 1605 by the legendary Nene, the wife of the late Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and financed by Tokugawa Ieyasu. Much of the complex was destroyed in 1789 by fire. Mom and I visited it at nighttime. Within the temple grounds, there is a bamboo grove that lights up spectacularly at night Back To Julie in Japanland... Around and About Kyoto April 3, 2007After the morning spent becoming Kyoto Maiko, Mom and Nana were really tired. Right outside the Maiko shop, the 3 of us went to the bank to exchange Traveler's checks, since nowhere in Kyoto actually takes them. Afterwards Nana and Mom planned on hitting the McDonalds, which I had no intent on doing. While Mom haggled with the bank man, I said my goodbyes with only a map and a few Yen. Immediately outside the bank, I knocked on the window of a moving cab. The driver took one look at me, smiled and opened the door. I told him in Japanese to take me to the Ninnaji temple complex, and he was immediately impressed that I spoke Japanese. The 15 minute ride was filled with Japanese jokes and my talking about my life in Japan. It was quite a relief for me to be back with the Japanese I have come to know and love, the friendly, cheery, and kind people back in Kochi. Because after yesterday's incident with the other cab driver who refused to drive us because we were foreign, I had begun to forget. When I told the driver I was 16, he nearly wet himself. For one he could not believe that a tall, Japanese speaking, mature looking girl could be only 16. He also couldn't believe I was going out alone. But I told I didn't really give my Mom much of a choice, and he laughed alot. He was such a nice man, and he reminded me alot of my first host father, Mr. Masaki. When we pulled up to the Ninnaji complex, the driver gave me a few Yen off the cost, so that it was an equal 2000 yen. He also got out of the cab and showed me around the entrance, giving me some interesting facts on the complex. Sometimes I don't think people understand why I could love a place like Japan. And in many ways, it is strange beyond words, but then I meet people like my first and third host families, Koto friends, and random Kyoto taxi drivers, and I don't understand how anyone could not love Japan. The driver couldn't stay long because he was off duty soon, though he would have given me a whole tour of the area if I asked him to. I was then on my own, far from the hotel, and in an area I knew little about except for a bus schedule map, which was given to me by the Maiko shop owners. I wasn't worried in the least, but thrilled by the independence. So I walked through the second gates and entered the Ninna-ji complex. I was first struck by these huge statue monster things that greeted me at the entrance. Kongorikishi (Ungyo) is the left side guard at Ninnaji Temple's main gate. I don't know if it's really a protector, but it would certainly scare little kids away. Ninna-ji is a large Omura-ha Shingon Buddhist temple complex in eastern Kyoto, founded in 888 by the retired Emperor Uda. From 888 to 1869 it was traditional for reigning Emperors to send a son to the temple to take over as head priest when a vacancy arose. But like everything else in Kyoto, fires ravaged the building from time to time. Most of today's buildings in the complex date from the 17th century, and include a five-story pagoda and a plantation of dwarf cherry trees. The temple itself features some beautifully painted screen walls, and a beautiful walled garden. In front of the pagoda I took the obligatory peace shot, followed by some pictures of myself. They didn't come out very good, because I still had paint all over the sides of my face from the Maiko costumes. After I explored most of the temple grounds, I left the complex and followed the giant tour buses heading for Ryoan-ji. It was a long walk up the hill, and when I arrived, there were huge tour groups massing at the gates. But it didn't matter once I got inside. After a brief walk through the garden, I headed for main attraction. You have to be truly into it, to understand the beauty of Ryoan-ji. To many, the temple's name is synonymous with the temple's famous karesansui, rock garden, thought to have been built in the late 1400s. The garden consists of raked gravel and fifteen moss-covered boulders, which are placed so that, when looking at the garden from any angle, only fourteen of the boulders are visible at one time. It is traditionally said that only through attaining enlightenment would one be able to view the fifteenth boulder. Well, I can't say I saw that 15th boulder. The longer you stare at it, the more your imagination runs wild. That is a description, but to understand its effect, and its purity, you have to go there. The design generates tension, drawing the viewer to contemplate the mystery of Zen. It can't be photographed in entirety, the dimensions could drive any photographer to distraction, but thats the beauty of it. All you can do is just put the camera away, sit down and contemplate it. Especially when you realize that no matter where you sit, you will only see 14 of the rocks at any one time. The longer you sit, the more the garden fascinates. The branches of the trees beyond the earthen wall with its peculiar but natural designs are "borrowed scenery" - they bend and straighten, they cast fantastic shadows with the moss that fills the pocks and spaces in the rocks. The raked lines are circles around the rock groups and yet straight elsewhere - and you will love how the lines stop without a single misplaced pebble when they touch the circular patterns, and then resume unchanged beyond them as if the rocks are islands. It changes with the seasons - cherry trees beyond the wall blooming in spring, snow clinging to the moss in the winter. It is never the same twice. And although the rocks do not move, there is something about those spaces between the rocks. Good lord, Zen drives people mad! After my enlightening experience, I filed out of the building and met an Australian couple from Brisbane. I told them about my exchange, and they invited me for some Green Tea with them. I can now officially say I have another couch to sleep on when I return to Australia! Departing the complex, I took the very long walk to Kinkakuji. When I arrived, the tour buses seemed to be leaving, and the complex had suddenyl become pretty quiet. Inside, I witnessed the golden splendor of the GoldPavillion. Kinkakuji is noteworthy for its rather magnificent Kinkaku or Golden Pavilion in its golden splendor, and the pond on which it sits surrounds it in a very tranquil setting. Kinkakuji's official name is actually Rokuonji. But the Golden Pavilion has given the temple the more popular name of Kinkaku-ji. It was constructed in the 12th century as a new residence for shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu upon retirement. When he passed away, it was converted into a Zen temple. The Golden Pavilion houses several sacred relics of the Buddha and is covered in real gold. The present building dates from 1955, because a fire, set by a crazy monk, destroyed the original building in 1950. Most people I talk to either love or hate the temple. They love it because of of it's beauty, or hate it because of it's crowd and being overrated. My opinion was somewhere in the middle. I think for a first timer to Kyoto, the structure is a must-see. It is really beautiful, but for how crowded the place was, and that's even after the main tour buses had left, it was somewhat unworth it. I pretty much had to fight through a mass of people for a few clear shots. But I'm glad I did it. I wanted to explore the area around the Pavillion, but it was too crowded. Instead I headed for the exit and and hailed a cab. I would have asked him to take me directly back to the hotel, but I was feeling cheap, so I settled for halfway. The driver, not as friendly as the man from the morning, dropped my off at the west exit of the former Imperial Goshi, or palace. Kyoto Imperial Palace used to be the residence of Japan's Imperial Family until 1868, when the emperor and capital were moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. It is located in the spacious Kyoto Imperial Park. The palace burnt down and was moved around the city several times over the centuries. The present reconstruction dates from 1855. The palace complex is enclosed by a long wall and consists of several gates, halls and gardens. It was weird for me to see some college kids throwing a Frisbee in land that used to belong to the sacred Imperial family. The Gion district is across the river from the main downtown. It's a beautiful well-preserved area which has kept the same atmosphere for a long time. There are numerous temples in that small area and the many stoned paved roads lined up with tiny inns, restaurants and shops. Although it's supposed to be the Geisha district, we didn't see any that night. Pontocho-dori is a narrow little lane east of Kawaramachi-dori and west of the Kamo river. The lane is hemmed in by restaurants and craft shops. It is particularly atmospheric at night when the eateries have red lanterns outside their doors. Unfortunately, our experience in Pontocho was not a good one. Located in a beautiful part of Higashiyama Ward, Kodaiji sits atop a slight hill. It was established in 1605 by the legendary Nene, the wife of the late Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and financed by Tokugawa Ieyasu. Much of the complex was destroyed in 1789 by fire. Mom and I visited it at nighttime. Within the temple grounds, there is a bamboo grove that lights up spectacularly at night Back To Julie in Japanland... Around and About Kyoto April 3, 2007After the morning spent becoming Kyoto Maiko, Mom and Nana were really tired. Right outside the Maiko shop, the 3 of us went to the bank to exchange Traveler's checks, since nowhere in Kyoto actually takes them. Afterwards Nana and Mom planned on hitting the McDonalds, which I had no intent on doing. While Mom haggled with the bank man, I said my goodbyes with only a map and a few Yen. Immediately outside the bank, I knocked on the window of a moving cab. The driver took one look at me, smiled and opened the door. I told him in Japanese to take me to the Ninnaji temple complex, and he was immediately impressed that I spoke Japanese. The 15 minute ride was filled with Japanese jokes and my talking about my life in Japan. It was quite a relief for me to be back with the Japanese I have come to know and love, the friendly, cheery, and kind people back in Kochi. Because after yesterday's incident with the other cab driver who refused to drive us because we were foreign, I had begun to forget. When I told the driver I was 16, he nearly wet himself. For one he could not believe that a tall, Japanese speaking, mature looking girl could be only 16. He also couldn't believe I was going out alone. But I told I didn't really give my Mom much of a choice, and he laughed alot. He was such a nice man, and he reminded me alot of my first host father, Mr. Masaki. When we pulled up to the Ninnaji complex, the driver gave me a few Yen off the cost, so that it was an equal 2000 yen. He also got out of the cab and showed me around the entrance, giving me some interesting facts on the complex. Sometimes I don't think people understand why I could love a place like Japan. And in many ways, it is strange beyond words, but then I meet people like my first and third host families, Koto friends, and random Kyoto taxi drivers, and I don't understand how anyone could not love Japan. The driver couldn't stay long because he was off duty soon, though he would have given me a whole tour of the area if I asked him to. I was then on my own, far from the hotel, and in an area I knew little about except for a bus schedule map, which was given to me by the Maiko shop owners. I wasn't worried in the least, but thrilled by the independence. So I walked through the second gates and entered the Ninna-ji complex. I was first struck by these huge statue monster things that greeted me at the entrance. Kongorikishi (Ungyo) is the left side guard at Ninnaji Temple's main gate. I don't know if it's really a protector, but it would certainly scare little kids away. Ninna-ji is a large Omura-ha Shingon Buddhist temple complex in eastern Kyoto, founded in 888 by the retired Emperor Uda. From 888 to 1869 it was traditional for reigning Emperors to send a son to the temple to take over as head priest when a vacancy arose. But like everything else in Kyoto, fires ravaged the building from time to time. Most of today's buildings in the complex date from the 17th century, and include a five-story pagoda and a plantation of dwarf cherry trees. The temple itself features some beautifully painted screen walls, and a beautiful walled garden. In front of the pagoda I took the obligatory peace shot, followed by some pictures of myself. They didn't come out very good, because I still had paint all over the sides of my face from the Maiko costumes. After I explored most of the temple grounds, I left the complex and followed the giant tour buses heading for Ryoan-ji. It was a long walk up the hill, and when I arrived, there were huge tour groups massing at the gates. But it didn't matter once I got inside. After a brief walk through the garden, I headed for main attraction. You have to be truly into it, to understand the beauty of Ryoan-ji. To many, the temple's name is synonymous with the temple's famous karesansui, rock garden, thought to have been built in the late 1400s. The garden consists of raked gravel and fifteen moss-covered boulders, which are placed so that, when looking at the garden from any angle, only fourteen of the boulders are visible at one time. It is traditionally said that only through attaining enlightenment would one be able to view the fifteenth boulder. Well, I can't say I saw that 15th boulder. The longer you stare at it, the more your imagination runs wild. That is a description, but to understand its effect, and its purity, you have to go there. The design generates tension, drawing the viewer to contemplate the mystery of Zen. It can't be photographed in entirety, the dimensions could drive any photographer to distraction, but thats the beauty of it. All you can do is just put the camera away, sit down and contemplate it. Especially when you realize that no matter where you sit, you will only see 14 of the rocks at any one time. The longer you sit, the more the garden fascinates. The branches of the trees beyond the earthen wall with its peculiar but natural designs are "borrowed scenery" - they bend and straighten, they cast fantastic shadows with the moss that fills the pocks and spaces in the rocks. The raked lines are circles around the rock groups and yet straight elsewhere - and you will love how the lines stop without a single misplaced pebble when they touch the circular patterns, and then resume unchanged beyond them as if the rocks are islands. It changes with the seasons - cherry trees beyond the wall blooming in spring, snow clinging to the moss in the winter. It is never the same twice. And although the rocks do not move, there is something about those spaces between the rocks. Good lord, Zen drives people mad! After my Zen enlightnment, I followed a Aussie Old people tour to the exit. I met an elderly couple from Brisbane, who invited me for Tea. I told themabout my exchange, and how one of my dearest friends in the world is from Townsville. They got a kick out of the fact that I had been to Brisbane before, but only saw the giant mall. When Tea was finished, I had another couch to sleep on for when I return to Australia. I think I'm going to make that my life goal, have a couch in every country. haha. Back on my own, I decided to follow to LONG uphill path to the world famous Kinkakuji. Along the way I passed through touristy areas and college apartments. The road became narrow and filled with people speaking many different languages. I finally arrived at the gates of the famous Golden Pavillion and entered with the huge masses of people. Kinkakuji is noteworthy for its rather magnificent Kinkaku or Golden Pavilion in its golden splendor, and the pond on which it sits surrounds it in a very tranquil setting. Kinkakuji's official name is actually Rokuonji. But the Golden Pavilion has given the temple the more popular name of Kinkaku-ji. It was constructed in the 12th century as a new residence for shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu upon retirement. When he passed away, it was converted into a Zen temple. The Golden Pavilion houses several sacred relics of the Buddha and is covered in real gold. The present building dates from 1955, because a fire, set by a crazy monk, destroyed the original building in 1950. For all the people who have talked about the Golden Pavillion with me, I have noted that it is either loved ot hated. Hated because it is overrated and crowded with toursts. This is true, and I virtually had to push through the crowds to get the few pictures I have below. Loved because no matter how crowded, the temple is truly stunning with it shimmering golden reflection in the pond. My opinion is somewhere in the middle. For a first timer to Kyoto, the temple is a must. All in all, I was glad that I saw it. After I simply toured the grounds, fighting through the heavy crowds on every step, I made my way for the exit, stopping only to get my fortune in English. I was lucky it actually said, "You should be traveling, as it is your lucky time time to experience something new." Almost made me want to believe the little bugger. At the exit, I hailed a cab, and decided I didn't want to pay that much money for a ride back to the hotel. The driver wasn't quite as friendly, so I settled for halfway, the Imperial Gosho, or former Palace of the Imperial family. The walk through the huge park was very peaceful. In order to get a tour of the inside, you need to make a reservation months in advance of the date. When i was planning the trip, i didn't think we would end up getting to the palace, so i didn't bother with a reservation. Kyoto Imperial Palace used to be the residence of Japan's Imperial Family until 1868, when the emperor and capital were moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. It is located in the spacious Kyoto Imperial Park. The palace burnt down and was moved around the city several times over the centuries. The present reconstruction dates from 1855. The palace complex is enclosed by a long wall and consists of several gates, halls and gardens. It was weird for me to see some college kids throwing a Frisbee in land that used to belong to the sacred Imperial family. Just goes to show how much things really have changed, I guess. Towards the end of the park, I began to wonder just how I would make my way back to the hotel to meet Mom and Nana. The walk would take me way to long, and I was too cheap to hire a cab. Sometime I discovered that I was lucky enough to be able to read the Japanese Kanji at a local bus stop. And so I boarded a bus bound a stop, that may or may not have been near my hotel. This is coming from a girl who used to be intimidated by the direct bus to New York City. And by some stroke of a miracle, I got off just 2 minutes from my hotel. Feeling so pround of my new found transportation skills, I walked the remaining way alongside the Canal, blooming Sakura, and Heian-Jingu. I stopped for some Korean pickles, called Kimuchi, for my lunch meal, then returned to the hotel. And after the 4 floor climb, woke up Nana and Mom who were slumbering quietly. They had promised that if they could get some sleep, they would be able to do some nighttime temple touring. So I eagerly annoyed the to get ready. And we finally beparted the hotel at around 5. We took a short cut that brought us through a wooden arcade filled with shops selling local vegetables and fruit. Then we were along side a gushing stread covered in petals from the Sakura trees. Soon darkness of night crept through the lively streets of Kyoto, as we made our way in the famous Gion district. First we got lost in the crowds at Sanjo-dori. The white and green lights were now lite and beckoned us with fragances and the kind words of shop owners. At the end of the street, we passed over a bridge and into the main area. The Gion district is across the river from the main downtown. It's a beautiful well-preserved area which has kept the same atmosphere for a long time. There are numerous temples in that small area and the many stoned paved roads lined up with tiny inns, restaurants and shops. Although it's supposed to be the Geisha district, we didn't see any that night. The place I wanted to eat was the legendary Pontocho street, which I had only ever heards about in Myths. Pontocho-dori is a narrow little lane east of Kawaramachi-dori and west of the Kamo river. The lane is hemmed in by restaurants and craft shops. It is particularly atmospheric at night when the eateries have red lanterns outside their doors. Unfortunately, our experience in Pontocho was not a good one. Though the street, with it's old style feel, and bright lanterns, was enchanting. The shops did not seem to want anything to go with foreign tourists. We made our way into one place, which had said served Pizza. It did not serve Pizza, and the chefs seemed annoyed that we even bothered to come in and try. One restaurant, which showed the food in the window, giving Nana and Mom some confidence, refused to take us in. The main man said that we needed a reservation in Japanese, though the reatsurant was virtually empty. I was left feeling crushed and terrible of this experience. I have never ever been so humiliated in Japan, as I was in that night. I didn't tell my Mom and Nana about the man who refused, because I was afraid of what they might do. Instead we finally found another underground little place with delicious food, English menu's, and very kind atmosphere. it was too hard for me to enjoy though, because I was in too much shock from the prior experiences. When we were finished with the meal, Nana informed us that she could no longer carry on. We hailed a cabbie, who spoke no English. I told him where to take Nana, but I spent the rest of the time worrying that he might end of taking her to the other side of Japan, and she would not have known the difference. Mom and I instead, headed up the steep slopes of Sannenzeka to Kiyomizudera. We climbed up the Omiyage filled streets, darkness carpeting everything but the creeping light from the shops. Thousands of people from all around the world were our company at one of the most beautiful temples in the world. Smells of raditional Japanese foods wafted through the air, amidst the familiar store greeting of 'Irashammisen!' The atmosphere was that of peace, and I found myself wondering of maybe the temple's rich heritage of Kannon, the Buddhist glad of mercy, had something to with it. We reached the top, legs tired from the climb, but were immediately enthralled by the lite up red structure of the gate. After we payed the entrance fee, took a few photos, our tired legs no longer bothered us as we climbed onto the temple. It was too amazing of a sight for us to really care about that. The main temple offered us a view of the Kyoto skyline. Now I don't think Kyoto is really anything special compared to Tokyo, New York, or the real big cities of the world. But it was really something lite up in the dark of night. The main Temple was a bit too crowded for my taste, so my mother and I moved on to another area, seemingly not quite as disturbed by the other tourists. I think most people must have overlooked this spot, for it offered the greatest view in the whole complex. I got to see the great hall of the shrine, lite up by the Sakura CHerry Blossom trees, with the lights of the city. As I suspected, we were not disppointed. But when it was time to head down the slopes of the mountain, I found myself saddened to be leaving the beautiful temple. I was also freezing. The night had become far too cold for my taste, but I would not let it stop me. As we began heading back for the hotel, I spotted Kodaiji, another temple I wanted to see. Located in a beautiful part of Higashiyama Ward, Kodaiji sits atop a slight hill. It was established in 1605 by the legendary Nene, the wife of the late Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and financed by Tokugawa Ieyasu. Much of the complex was destroyed in 1789 by fire. Mom and I visited it at nighttime. Within the temple grounds, there is a bamboo grove that lights up spectacularly at night. It was just a common temple, but the Bamboo grove was incredible. I felt like I had entered another dimension, surrounded my the mysterious wooden green grove. Mom began to feel very sick. So we couldn' stay very long. All in all the days was eventful and enjoyable. I was a Maiko in the morning, an explorer in the afternoon, and a dreamer in the evening. And I was even happier in the ｂath after such a long chilly day. ;)
