Piczo

Japan's Most Intense River

I was wide awake and really excited at 5:30 in the morning. The rest of the Osaki family was sleeping soundly, while I excitedly threw on a bathing suit and tee-shirt. By the time the alarm clock in the other room rang, I was dressed and ready to go. After all, we were heading for the Yoshino River, in Tokushima/Kochi for a full day rafting adventure. The Yoshinogawa, is Japan's most intense rafting river. In fact in the top of rafting spots in all the world, the Yoshinogawa is rated among the best. At 7:30, the Osaki cars left the city of Kochi heading for the border of Kochi and Tokushima. There we would stop at the rafting company, Happy Raft, to begin our adventure. The drive took us about an hour and 20 minutes, where everyone but myself, slept soundly. I must have acted like a little 5 year-old on a driving trip to Disney World. "Are we there yet?" "No" "How about now?" "No" "Now?" For those that don't know me, I'm one of those insane people that enjoys dangerous and crazy thrills, for fun. Most Japanese people think I'm absolutely mad when I tell them I went Bungee-Jumping at 12 years-old, Parasailing at 10, and rode my first Roller Coaster an 1 and 1/2. Rafting qualifies, at least in my book, as one of those insanely awesome extreme adventures I so much enjoy. When we arrived at the small, family-owned, river rafting company, Happy Raft, I was immediately shocked that they spoke English. On rural Shikoku. Oddly enough, Happy Raft was founded by an Aussie, and most of the staff speak a little bit English. We all sort of split into our rafting groups by this time. Since Hikari is only 7, the strict regulations say that she is not allowed on a full day rafting tour. Obachan and Chizuko-Obasan, decided the take Hikari on the half day tour on the less intense, half-day course. The Oboke, literally meaning 'Big Danger,' half-day tour is perfectly suited for first-time adventurers. The tour begins at Toyonaga where it’s straight into the action. Big rapids are interspersed with crystal clear pools as the river winds its way through the Yoshino valley down to Happy Raft base. Since they wouldn't start till later in the afternoon, they trekked out to the Iya Valley Rope Bridge (See Mysterious Iya Valley) That left Me, Otosan and Okasan Osaki, Ebuki, Kaho, and Maako getting quickly prepared for the Full Day Tour. From the brochure, "This is our premier tour and a must-do for adventure-lovers. There is no better way to refresh, relax and immerse yourself in the beauty of the river. The Koboke section stands above all other rafting trips offered in Japan. HappyRaft will ensure your day is safe and memorable. The Koboke is the big one! Japan’s ultimate white-water rafting adventure. The Koboke One-Day Trip boasts big challenging grade 4 rapids, breath-taking scenery, and crystal-clear pools!" We waited for the company to open it's doors officially, then we began getting into the rafting gear. They provided us with everything that was needed. Luckily, they had lots of heavy clothes, because the weather was cold! There was a huge wind blowing and I had 'bird-bumps' (Japanese translation of Goosebumps) from the chill. First I put on a heavy sweatshirt. Next came the wet suit. Now the wet suit, is really not the most flattering thing I had to wear. And Japanese wet suits aren't quite good for the the long legs of a gaijin. It was so short that my ankles were hanging out the entire day. The wet suit resembled overalls, in that they went over the sweatshirt with suspender type things. It was tight, and began thanking god that I lost some weight recently. Next game this horribly obnoxious colored bright yellow jacket. The younger girls put on another set of wet suits, but I really don't think it would have fit me, Okasan, and Otosan. We were then given helmets for head protection. Mine was bright red, making my outfit the most unmatching thing I have ever worn. The guide then, wrote our names in Japanese on a piece of tape and stuck it to our helmet. And with that, all of us were ready for our big rafting adventure. Into the Happy Raft van we went, briefly stopping to say goodbye to Hikari and the rest, as they set out for the Vine Bridge. The ride to our first spot was really exciting. The guide talked to the Osaki's about the last rafting adventure they all went on with Happy Raft. When we arrived at an abandoned riverside parking lot, the group exited the van, which was to be dropped off further downstream. We walked along a deserted highway, besides the huge green mountains of Shikoku, and listened to our guide talk about some rules. I really couldn't understand anything, so I didn't bother to listen. After we climbed down a hill to the Yoshinogawa riverbank, where 2 rafts floated silently waiting for us, the guide handed out paddles. On the riverbank we sat and listened as he showed us some tricks and ways to avoid danger. In the boat, I sat alongside of Okasan Osaki in the back, later to be changed. The first long stretch was not very fun at all. Mostly we just practiced techniques, which were quite embarrassing for me. My host father told the guide that I'd been rafting before. Even though I insisted I couldn't remember it, because I was like 9 years-old, he seemed to think I would be a pro. So while everyone knew exactly what to do, I sort of sat around looking clueless. The wind was blowing very harshly, causing us to paddle heavily. But our first rapids changed all of that. Soon we were beasting category 3 rapids in an attempt to stay in the raft. Kaho and Ebuki, in the front of the boat, were drenched within the first few rapids. But it wasn't until later, that the rest of us got the water. About an hour of category 3 and easy paddling passed, when we reached a spot that made our raft get stuck. When we were freed from that madness, our first category 4 of the day loomed in the distance. We were very successful in getting through it, but Happy Raft had another idea. The company has this special feature, where the drag the raft underneath the front of a huge rapid. Basically the only way to get out of it and keeping it from doing a total flip over, is to fight with all of the weight in the boat. Maako and Otosan, who had switched to the front, followed by Me and Okasan in the middle, were suddenly found in the a bathtub. The water poured into the boat, up to our shoulders and as we screamed and laughed. The guide, Ebuki, and Kaho, stayed in the back and fought to keep the boat from flipping. I was screaming at the top of my lungs, while water that was the temperature of slightly above freezing, poured into my wet suit. It was so much fun and so cold at the same time! It was definitely the most enjoyable part of the whole rafting trip. When we finally escaped the grasps of the rapids and slight hypothermia, a 20 minute paddling stretch awaited us. We all sailed along in a synchronized manner, among the chorus of Ichi-Ni, or one-Two. By the time we reached the shores, out arms were burning with pain, and crying for a break. We climbed up the side of a slight hill to where we saw Hikari and some other people from the Happy Raft company. They set out a huge table full of lunch. I was starving, but noticed there wasn't much food. So I only ate one and 1/2 mini ham and ketchup sandwiches. At some point I had to go to the bathroom. On the side of a bridge was a couple Port-a-Potty, with a Japanese touch. When I got back the rafting group, they had lit a charcoal fire. I was so frozen that I almost sat on the fire, though it wouldn't have made much difference. The wind was just so strong! Hikari, Obachan, and Chizuko, were the first to head back to base as their tour would be starting shortly. The rest of us climbed back down the hill and boarded the raft. This time, Okasan and I were put in the front of the raft, probably because it was supposed to be the wettest spot. I wasn't very happy with this idea because of how cold I was. The wind had died down alot, but I was still frozen from the coldness of the water. Sure enough, our first rapids left Okasan and Me sopping with water. The funny part was that these rapids were really dangerous and the guide called for everyone to sit in the boat in a protective way with the paddle above one's head. Okasan and I couldn't hear the directions from the roaring of the rapids. So we fought and braved the rapids in a really dangerous position, while the rest of the group thought us to be stupid. When we were told what had happened, we couldn't help but burst into laughter. After those major rapids, we made some side stops, like a rock with a huge bath carved into it. The younger girls took a little dip in the 'Onsen,' which was filled with algae rather than sulfur. They got their suit covered in the green slime, joking that it would be a good souvenir to take back for Hikari. The next part was a long boring stretch, in which the guide crafted some fun paddle games for us. Along the way we got to look out at the beauty of the Shikoku landscape. I'm convinced there is no place quite like it in it's utter beauty and mystery. The Koboke canyon, which we rafted, is crystalline schist ravine running through central Shikoku, carved out over thousands of years by the Yoshinogawa river crossing the Shikoku mountains. The steep sides and rugged terrain of the area are said to have given the ravine the names Ooboke, meaning "it is dangerous to walk at a stride", and Koboke, meaning "it is dangerous to walk even with small steps". Many strangely-shaped rocks and abysses are visible at Ooboke and Koboke, sometimes considered to have a rather masculine shape to them. These features, formed over time by the river, are the Yoshinogawa's natural "works of art". There is no good way to describe the breathtaking views of rural Shikoku. The first game that the guide crafted for us on that long paddling session, was a game where you push down your paddle into the water. When it comes back up you have to catch it. If you do, a wish will come true. Maako was the only one to catch her paddle. But I didn't make a wish, the guide however, made my wish. That I would get a boyfriend. Luckily, the silly paddle wasn't caught. The next game was my least favorite part of the whole day. The guide stood on the back of the boat, while the rest of slide to where he was standing. Slowly he pulled it back, claiming he wanted to see how far he could full it without flipping. What stupid person would really fall for that? Unfortunately the raft flipped, and since I was the furthest up from it, it crashed into my head and pushed me all the way under the water. I can't really remember what happened next, except that everyone was roaring in laughter. My Host Mom said that when I reached the surface I started screaming in English, "Oh My FREAKING God!" The water was sooooooooooooooooooooooo cold. The girls swam around in the water, whileOkasan, Otosan, and I climbed back into the boat. I think it must have been because we weren't wearing 2 wet suits that we were so uncomfortable in the water. When everyone was back on the boat, the guide asked if anyone was crazy enough to some cliff jumping. I didn't understand his question, but I did understand when 5 Japanese people pointed their fingers at me as if on cue. So we paddled down the river, my lips were blue and my teeth were chattering as the wind blew strongly. When we reached the last stretch of our tour, the raft was stopped at a huge rock on the side of the river. The girls and I all climbed out, and onto the rocks. The guide helped us as we slowly climbed the huge rocks to midpoint. Kaho went first and jumped straight into the water. Maako and Ebuki were too scared to go, but I asked the guide to take me to a higher spot. Hey I didn't care that I was suffering from Hypothermia, a chance to some something crazy and stupid and dangerous is like my life called. The guide wouldn't even climb to the spot he showed me. It was sooooo high! But as soon as I reached it, I lept off the stone into a 360 Twist. I hit the water quite painfully, especially since my life jacket wouldn't allow me to go all the way under. But I popped out of the water laughing and cheering, while my body wondered how I got from Japan to Antarctica. Back inside the raft, I watched as Ebuki and Maako had to be taken to a lower rock, nearly right above the water. There is no word for Chicken in Japanese. Ebuki did a flip, while Maako did a simple jump. Back inside the boat, we paddled to our final set of rapids. The first portion, we sailed through while all standing up. I have terrible balance, and nearly took out Kaho with my paddle. The last rapid, we did while laying down in a relaxing style. I was sad to get off the raft when it was all over with, but everyone seemed relieved. They were all exhausted! And it showed when we climbed into the van for the 40 minute ride back. Within 5 minutes snores filled the van. I just sat back and laughed.